George Smolinski
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Posts posted by George Smolinski
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I suppose they may be the same. The photo is of the correct decal for a 396 car. The number 6421213 denoted the application. I need a decal that looks exactly like the one in the photo except the number has to be 6421777.
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2 hours ago, Walt G said:
It is absolutely wonderful to see the response to this plea for help and information. Be so thankful to AACA for hosting this Forum. Sure you have to read/put up with a lot of opinions and there a lot of people who comment on any and everything , I guess meaning well, or perhaps seeking recognition? BUT the service this club site provides is like no other. Give credit where credit is due - Thank you AACA.Walt G.
Walt,
Well said. Thank you to those that replied with information and/or companies that may help me. I'll follow up with them.
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9 hours ago, Joe in Canada said:
There is a fellow 10 miles north of me in Kendal On. that makes them for the antique outboard motor club and will see if I can get his number. I think he makes vinyl and water slip.
Mine would be peel and stick.
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9 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:
not sure on that specific one but Ecklers,/ Dearborn Classics
few places make decals and can make custom ones
Like most of those places, they only have the popular ones & offer no help for any of the little used/known ones.
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I'm looking for someone that makes decals. I have one that is near impossible to find in NOS & I haven't found anyone who makes it either. It is the decal for the air cleaner service instructions for a 1966 Chevrolet wagon with 427.
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VW will no longer offer the Toureg in the US market. We get the Atlas, a much bigger vehicle. If one REALLY wants a new Toureg, is it difficult to buy overseas & ship here? What about import duties? Would parts & service be difficult to obtain here?
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Not mine.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/1932-reo-flying-cloud/6867630619.html
621 Flying Cloud Sport Sedan
One of 5 known in REO club of America
Trailer load of spares
Disability forces sale
Dependable reliable car
Car was painted in 1956
Original interior
Open to offers
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Jean,
I can help you ID almost anything Chevrolet, both NOS and used. Just send me the part numbers.
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Thanks for the photos. I may be crazy, but in the photos where your car is next to & among some black ones, I'd rather have yours.
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Proverbial needle in a haystack. Do we only get to see one photo? Will you please post a couple more of the car?
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48 minutes ago, Terry Bond said:
I see some body panel fit issues - hood, drivers side door for example.
Hood hinges are bad. Probably the rivets are worn. I had the same issue on a '66 Impala. The driver's door has a bad hinge that may be causing the fitment issue.
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I worked in an auto reconditioning shop for a few years a long time age. It was after MN made it illegal to spin odometers back. The dealer(s) would send a guy over to our shop & he would disassemble the dash enough to get at the odometer. He'd spin it to a nice lower mileage, reassemble the dash & it went up for sale on the dealer lot as a nice lower mileage, say 50,000 mile car instead of the 132,000 it really had on it.
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33 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said:
I usually work backwards on these analysis, i.e. picture what you want at end of a rebuild. If you want a nice looking daily driver, with new paint and interior, and otherwise mechanically solid and reliable, figure what $$ you will need to spend, add that to sellers asking price and compare total with market price for a similar re-built car. Then see how big a hole you are in. Reduce purchase price until you are not in a hole. My guess is that 10K-12K for this car may keep your head above water.
I'm thinking in the same price range. I also kind of work like you described. I look at the car I'm interested in & try to find the same make & model for sale in the condition I would like the one I'm looking at to be in. Then I ask myself, can I get there from here? This is a one owner car & it does have paperwork with it. I think that's a big plus. The items under the hood that are aftermarket or not original are mostly easy to change. I think finding a correct intake, carb, and air cleaner may take a little digging. The block is a 389, original block, definitely a WT. The tripower doesn't matter a whole lot to me. They look impressive, but I think I'd rather have an original 4 barrel setup to go with the car. The Buick rims don't matter either. It will get Cragar SS's if I own it. Nothing wrong with the floor pans/undercarriage. Carpet & front buckets need to be redone. Not sure if driver door panel will clean up. Passenger door panel & back seat are good. Trunk is mint & has spare & jack.
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I'm kinda on a buying spree. This is the latest I'm looking at buying. 1965 GTO. WT block (4 barrel, not tripower), 4 speed, has a tripower on it & the 4 barrel & correct air cleaner are MIA. All original, one owner, no rust, most of interior is nice, but smells old & musty. What's it worth?
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2 hours ago, Bill Harmatuk said:
Finnish or buy.?? If it goes on my trailer its over with.
Nice truck.
The market is all about trucks in North Carolina.
Just saw a 63 short bed step side in nice shape go for 2500.00 as soon as it hit Facebook Yard Sales.
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I need to learn how to copy and paste the cars I'm seeing come out into the sunshine or from in back of the barn.
Must be drugs or hard times or too much Barrett Jackson.
Bill H
Judging from what's happening at auctions, you would have to add a zero to the number in your reply, then multiply by 3 & you'll be close. It's a factory red/black, 396, T400, and every option that you could get on a C10 in 1969 except tilt steering. We added the tilt anyway.
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1969 C10 located in Elkhart, IN. Very near South Bend, IN. Photos are older - exterior trim is all on. Engine needs breaking in, minor items need installation, paint needs final touch up & buff. Needs to be driven a little ti iron out any bugs after engine break in. Truck needs detailing for show or auction. Will need to be hauled from shop it's in to your shop.
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From the photo of the front end/grille, he looks like a happy car. Looks way cool. You’d have something different at car shows & cruises.
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Thanks. I’ll contact them.
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1 hour ago, JACK M said:
I'll wager that it either a 40 Ford or a 46 Buick.
Wrong. ‘34 Ford. And according to some, with Ford prices heading down, I should get it for a song.
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Thanks to all who replied, although only one person replied AND stayed on topic. The rest of you gave me some interesting reading anyway. To sum up:
I did state in a reply that OCPG the operative word is guide. I don’t live or die by it. I do make use of other sources as well. I use the “guides” and other sources when I’m looking to buy a car to flip that I’m not real familiar with. It’s worked well for me & I’ll continue to use it.
It appears that every person replying to this topic has their opinion and their own way of buying and selling cars and they seem to work for said persons. I just described mine. It works for me. End of story. But keep the replies coming. It’s always good to hear what others are doing.
References seem to have been made in this thread to expensive and very expensive cars rarely, if ever, driven anymore. These are not the type of cars I was referring to. The ‘40 Ford Tudor is an older restoration, meaning paint, chrome/stainless redone, interior redone with improper material, original flathead & trans, no rust on body before paint. Just a nice driver.
The ‘46 Buick Special is all original, straight 8, no rust Alabama car, everything intact right down to original spare, jack, & keys. Another nice driver supposedly owned by the man that started Chick-Fil-A.
Thanks again everyone.
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Does anyone have an auto transport company to recommend that ships from Canada to the U.S.? I want one that will handle all the work going through customs, along with carrying the title to the car along with the car. FYI, shipping is from Vancouver, B.C. To Twin Cities, MN.
Thanks in advance.
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21 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:
As useful as it is, the Hagerty Valuation covers a relatively narrow range, incorporating only certain makes, models, and years - essentially excluding anything Pre War (WWII).
With all due respect, don't expect to find Nickle-, Brass-, and Class-Era vehicles
Someone suggested Hagerty. What a waste of time. No ‘40 Ford.
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Thanks John,
Exactly what I was looking for.
Is this '60 Caddy convertible slightly overpriced at $5500?
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
I would say it's worth the $5500 if they throw in the one next to it.