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George Smolinski

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Posts posted by George Smolinski

    Opportunity to buy a 1960 Corvette - I have questions.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    7 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

    I had a 60 Fuelie about 8 years ago.  Wonderful car.  Probably around a low 2 being very honest.  Very correct and original with one respray in original color.  After owning it and looking it over the only damage had been a small repair on the driver's side front under the bumper on the corner.  Well done but to a real expert detectable as they will examine every seam on a good car. Super nice frame and undercarriage.   West coast car.  (Ironically the 2 pros I hired to look at it never saw the repair and it was in a showroom when they looked at it) 

     

    I would still have it today probably if we didn't need a bigger house and it hadn't experienced an engine fire that did substantial damage. 

     

    Vette guys especially with anything numbers matching or to be correct want to make sure everything is correct.  They were trying to date code everything on it to make sure it was exact 100%.  At this point I would almost prefer a non correct car with a different engine to avoid the agony of that whole scene especially if it was priced right.  

     

    Obviously you need to make sure the frame is good.  Look at the body seems that are obvious and check for any screws rivets or holes in the them as they often use those fasteners to hold stuff together when they are doing the fiberglass work.  Any real damage to the body will devalue the car even if properly repaired.   Still not an end all depending on the price. 

     

    As far as restamping the block, leave it alone.  That's a huge red flag to anyone that you are trying to pull something and it's almost impossible to restamp and make it undetectable.  The pad is slightly lower than the cylinder head surface.  If the block is decked it will remove it and that's the first red flag as it will be smooth all the way across and not recessed.  Secondly it also has a machined finish on it that's hard to duplicate. 

     

    I believe the tach was for the low horse cars. So that alone isn't going to make it valuable to try to mess around with getting it all correct especially since you are starting with a non original engine.  

     

    Figure on it always being a driver.  I wouldn't discredit the repaint.  The factory paint wasn't that good and if it only has one paint job on it,  it very likely got resprayed to freshen it up like most did years ago.  If it's old paint work,  20 years or more.  It's stable.  At this point any bodywork is going to show itself as well as cracks,  which it will have a few.  Probably on the cowl by the hood or somewhere else along the hood lip.  Maybe near the headlights.  I would say if it's still presentable you are in pretty good shape. 

     

    Be sure the vin is in place and doesn't look monkeyed with.  Should be on the steering column under the hood.

     

    It's all price dependent.  A crappy driveable C1 seems to be about 35G with issues.  A decent driver if you really look seem to fall in the over 40G range and good cars start in the 50's,  but once in a while a cheaper one can be had.   Saw a real nice 57 (for the money for sale for 35G) and would have called on it if I had some $$

     

    Right now would like a 54 or 55 but probably need to sell something to think about that.   I've seen a few of those in the 55-65G  range. seems to be the average for a driver.

     

    This is my car after it burnt and I detailed it for sale.  You can see the hood is ruined and some damage to the speaker hole in the dash.  Damage under the hood was extensive.    Have to give a shout out to the fire department for helping put it out and only a mere tiny scratch  during the process.   Of course We had been working on putting it out before they got there so that probably aided in it not being completely destroyed.  Fortunately engine was ice cold as I just started it up so it suffered no damage internally. 

     

     

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    Same colors as my daughter’s ‘61 that she had in high school in the late ‘90’s.

    Opportunity to buy a 1960 Corvette - I have questions.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Just now, trimacar said:

    For serious money, numbers matching on a Corvette is a huge deal.  Not just engine, but exterior engine components too.  Most componentsare date coded and must be within a couple of months prior to car build date.  Very wxpensive to find correct components.

    I went through all of this with a 1966 Biscayne L72. It took about 4 years to get all the correct dated components. I had to compete for them with the 1966 Corvette restorers since the same L72 came in the Corvette also.

    I was planning to drive it while fixing a few small items and making minor improvements to it. Play with it for a couple years, then sell it. I know the Corvettes that are all correct appreciate much more and faster than a driver like this one, but from personal experience a long time ago (20 years) the drivers don't lose any value.

    One thought on the engine, it seems to me I read somewhere that the NCRS allowed block restamping to make a car correct. Does anyone know if it's true?

    Opportunity to buy a 1960 Corvette - I have questions.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I'll be looking at a '60 Corvette in spring that I want to buy. It's tucked away for the winter now. The current owner bought it used when he was 18. He's now in his late 60'2 early 70's. He's always garaged it. Red, black interior, 283, 4 speed. Engine isn't original, but supposedly a correct 1960 283. 7000 rpm tach with 5000 redline. No hardtop, but does have convertible top in good condition. Never hit body. Never restored, but current owner painted it after he bought it. Overall looks = a driver that was treated well and maintained well. 

    Questions:

    Any problem areas I should be sure to inspect? 

    What 283 would have come with the car based on the tach info?

    As a percentage, how much does the non-original engine devalue the car?

    I know it's impossible to get much information on most Chevrolets from that era. How about Corvettes? Is there something like PHS for them?

    Condition is about a 3.5 from Old Cars Weekly explanation. Care to put a value on it?

    Thanks in advance for any help or info.

     

    1950 Ford hearse $4,500

    in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale

    Posted

    Facebook

    1950 Ford hearse, Flathead V8 and 3 speed with overdrive. Runs with carb bowl filled with gas, runs good no noises. All gauges work. Needs wood work for door frames or some fab work. Missing hinges for one door. Very rare Seibert conversion. I haven’t seen another. Has been sitting in a garage for 25+ years. Needs total restoration. Comes with spare engine and trans. Feel free to call. Located in south jersey. 609-78four-28eightzero.

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    Product photo of 1950 Ford Hearse

    • Like 1

    ODD Wheel Centers to Wheel Well Openings

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    5 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

    UPDATE: I picked the Chrysler Touralet because I worked on the restoration 50 years ago, it always looked odd to me from the day it was finished. Larger wheels or tires, rearching the springs, something could have been done. I would think "High End" car restorations would be corrected to make the eye appeal a bit better. 

    Doing what you suggest would mean the car was not restores, per the definition of the word restore. I would think also that high end “restorations” are done to original factory specs so the car is as it was when originally built.

    1959 Custom convertible $12,000

    in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, Gearheadengineer said:

    Buy it for $12k, give it a name, create a fake patina photograph of it at a ‘60s custom show, convince someone to write an article about the history, and double your money. 
     

    Cover it in dust and take pics inside a dimly lit barn for another $12k. 

    Too much work. I'll just hang on to my $12000 until something un-ugly comes along.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

    Non-use of protective gear on TV car shows.

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    15 hours ago, chistech said:

    I'm actually very familiar with swine and pork issues seeing since my family and then later I, owned a Federally Inspected Slaughterhouse. I can tell you there's more than just trichinosis that hogs can get but beef can also get things. Animals are no different than people when it comes to diseases. No animal meat will really kill you if cooked. The disease they might be carrying that you might get will though. Chicken can be even worse. I saw plenty of things in young animals that were really too young to be carrying anything but they were. It wasn't common but it does happen. We had to have three separate cutting areas, each with it's own cutting tables and band saws to prevent cross contamination. Beef and pork carcasses had to be separated and couldn't touch while hanging in the coolers either. The main reason is people will eat beef rare and the low cooking temperature doesn't kill the disease. Avian tuberculosis that hogs get from the birds. Birds would take a dump in the hog feeder and then the hogs would ingest it causing the hogs to get the disease. The disease was easily found during the slaughtering process when the glands in the hogs throat were sliced multiple times and what appeared as small white grains of sand were seen, then the carcass was condemned or deemed only fit for high temperature cooking! (that rule kind of bothered me as no small slaughterhouse was setup to do that but I'm sure the large ones are. 

    If you want to read something kinda scary and definitely sickening, read “Fast Food Nation” published in 2001. It will make you stop and think next time you eat fast food or buy meat at the chain grocery stores.

    • Like 1
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