Don Jr.

Wow, thank you for this. Yes I will try them first. The forum is a great resource and appreciate it. Hope they are in the US otherwise companies will not ship to me.

Yes. Very interested in experimenting trying the technique. Father son project. Found a guy who used General Finish Milk paint. Came out quite well. I located a buggy shop in Amish area of Penn. Trying them too. See there are several methods and paints to accomplish this. On line videos demonstrating applying it looks like a skill set you need to acquire but willing to try. The above site is about 1 hr. south of me so will try them too. Being told the Rustoleum paint just does not behave well. My first car a 1966 Mustang had that Blue paint that peeled off at the car wash. So after a pizza party a few friends and several 6 packs we painted the car Rustoleum Blue with a black top. Just married no extra money for this but it stuck well enough to drive it for a year until I could afford a decent car. Thanks.

Hi, Looking for a Coach paint supplier in the United States. Everything I have found is in Europe and they cannot ship to the USA. Found a few vintage Carriage builders in the US that may have a source but thought I would ask here first. Found great videos and tutorials on doing this process. Thanks.

I also have the Motive bleeder system. Works wonderful for my purpose. And yes need to buy the specific adapter for each application.

And just remembered another detail. The car needed a new clutch somewhere along the line and they bought a 10 1/2 inch clutch as a replacement ahead of time and started to change it at a gas station after hours. When they tried to install the new clutch pack they discovered it was too small as opposed to the one they pulled. They had to push the car out and get the bigger clutch pack the next day to finish the job the next night.

OOPS. The car has a bench seat.

Hi, Got more info. Here we go. A mechanic that worked at the local dealership asked the dealership owner to order him a 1970 Nova as the 1971 models would be changed. It was late for this to happen but dealership owner said he could help him. The mechanic wanted to purchase the Nova to tow his drag car and possibly drag the new Nova. The car came in but it was registered as a 1971 Chevy Nova! The mechanic owned it for less than a year and sold it to my friend's wife. They have owned it ever since. My friend became confused as the Nova had all the 1970 Nova attributes. He contacted someone from Hemmings and the contact gave him what to look for to determine if it is indeed a 1970 or registered as a 1971. Here is the info on the car 1. Gold with black vinyl top 2. Rubber floor mats 3. Nova SS badges and all associated items a SS should have. 4. Dog dish hub caps 5. Wide ratio Muncie m-21 transmission 6. 12 bolt posi 7. Multi leaf springs 8. HD sway bar 9. AM radio 10. PS/PB 11. No AC 12.No wood grain on dash Car was supposed to come in with high performance engine. Badge on front fender has 350 script. He believes it is a 300HP engine but not sure. All the above items as he was told should be on a 1970 Nova not a 1971 Nova. My friend changed the shifter to a Hurst unit, removed the wheels and tires and caps and installed Mags on it. He has retained all the above factory items he removed. I have requested the vin number off the registration and requested to come over to check out the engine numbers. He said he will do that. The car has never seen a winter since it was new. It was drag raced a few times and told he has timing slips for 13.68 in 1/4 mile. And finally I asked if it is fr sale. The answer right now is no. He wants to start working on it. Been left in garage unused for 7 years now. If I can get the vin number and block numbers possibly could find out what it left the factory with and what is there now. First owner did not swap engine out. that is it for now. I will contact him next week to see if I can at least get vin number. Thanks.

Hi, Tomorrow I am done with our food program. Have more info on this car and will verify what he stated about it to make sure I post what is known. Very interesting story I am getting. I have asked the owner to give me the vin number to see what it left the factory so at least start this mystery. The car is packed in his garage and I asked him if I can get to it so I can record the casting number, and front pad numbers of the engine. Thanks.

Yes I do but thanks . Have a 1961 Corvette that I had to play the decipher game to find out what she was. Brought her home in a bushel basket in 1972 as a beat street strip car that nobody wanted back then.. Seeing owner today. It will be after next Tuesday as we are serving our county community with a Thanksgiving basket for 2000 families up against it. Works out to 10,000 people will get a nice hot meal they can cook for the holiday. My donation to help the needy. Been at this for well over 40 years. I will get the info and report. Thank you again.

Oops, Forgot to answer. Supposed to have had high performance small block 375 H.P. but car has a 300 H.P. engine now according to him. I have not seen car yet. So block numbers / casting date may shed light on this. I will pull a valve cover to check head casting numbers too. Verify transmission numbers and posi rear end info. It is a 12 bolt unit with correct leaf springs and sway bar setup.

Thank you. This forum is amazing for details of cars that are and approaching 100 years old. Yes I am of the age where 1970's cars were common in the day as a young man and were not in my mind antiques. Have to remember these cars are up there. I will see him tomorrow and get more details about the car. For some reason he believes possibly the dealer swapped the engine out when new why?? .The motor numbers will shed some light on this. He is not pro porting the Nova is super rare car but may have been a special ordered car by the dealership owner as he was told. He has asked me to help him get the car started up. So much cleaning and lubing before we fire her up. Will report back as we progress. Much appreciated.

Hi, Helping a friend looking for info on a rarer 1970 Chevy Nova. Is there a Nova club ( not muscle car club ) near New York State where he might find info on this car. Supposedly a car that the dealer owner ordered new for himself but ended up in hands of my friend. From what he is finding it has all the high performance options but has the lower powered engine. Possibly swapped from a previous owner. I am going to get vin number and get block numbers to help identify this car. He would like to start working on it after it sitting for several years in his possession. Any help would be appreciated. Know this is not a vintage car but this forum has many members with great knowledge. Thanks.

Hi Just to let folks know the family that owns the home were elated getting the tin repro sign. They are going to proudly place it in the home for display. Will see my friend soon to see how we could reproduce a Radiator emblem. And giving a little breathing room for AACA Library to ask about any info. They took a hard hit as I have read. Like the members here we all have a passion to preserve Automobile history. Will post as I progress. Thanks for all your help.

When I purchased the car many years ago it was in a barn with a 1929 Chrysler series 65 coupe and a believe a 1930 Marquette. I bought the 1929 Chrysler and my brother in law purchased the 1921 Dodge Touring. There were parts piled on top of the Dodge so possibly the front bumper I got was not from it but I will make it work. Discovered the Dodge was local and never left the area from new. We had a small Dodge dealer in downtown. Located the little space where it was back in the teens thru 20's then they moved to a much bigger place that survived thru the late 1960's. My brother in law took the Dodge all apart and finally I purchased all the pieces and putting back together like a jig saw puzzle. Thanks for the data above.

O.K. That is good news about not having rear bumper inn those years. Would have thought if you had fronts then rears were appropriate. I will get going and restore the front one I have. And if I get lucky either find or fabricate a rear set. Thank you.

I ran a 1000 ton press that originally stamped out Model T parts. We purchased it from a second hand dealer in Detroit and had a crew come in to set it up. The set up crew found cracks in the 4 post frame assembly and they drilled out, inserted pins and welded up pins where needed. I was amazed with the whole operation of these highly skilled men. Yes the base was quite substantial and had to be dead nuts level. It was set into a deep pit we had to make to allow us to move hot alloys in and out about waist high. It stood about 30 feet tall. It originally just went up and down in a cyclic motion but we had another company modify it to allow us to control movement. You had to have both hands on dead man buttons at all times while closing the heated platens operating it. Once the sensors were satisfied nothing obstructed the operation I could then use a joy stick to apply pressure to the press. Worked with a crew of 4 men when operating it. And this guy was a small press compared to the ones in the video. We could never reach in the press to push or pull things out like those guys did. OSHA would have had a ball there back then.

Well when I was a mechanic at a Ford Dealership. Late on a Friday night I had the Service manager make me pull in a new Ford Galaxie 4 door a person just picked up from another dealership in Albany about 15 miles away. Guy said the car made a clunk every time he stopped and started. He pulled it in the high bay where all the mechanics work on cars. Everyone was gone except the Service manager and myself. So we had the guy drive it and stop several times in the shop. We followed along to see where the noise was coming from. Heard it several times and like him tried to determine where it was coming from. Up on the lift with a rubber hammer found nothing so I drove it back and forth a few times. Noticed the noise was on drivers side. Service manager had me jack up the front and rear of the car sitting there and behold the noise. So he had me pull the rocker moulding in the door opening and jack the car slowly one way while he looked down the screw hole with a light. Yes some disgruntled worker stuck a nice big ball bearing in the rocker area before the side was welded on. We sent the guy on his way back to the dealer he just got it from to have them take care of the issue. Learned alot at a dealership as a young man.

Back window area was still not punched out in one of the presses that I could see and yes assume crisper edges for attaching panels to sides near gutter area.

That is a great idea. They will either laugh at us or give us some advice. I need to talk to them about broken pieces of the fiberglass reinforced plastic Roadhawk package for repair method. Going to move all the loose pieces removed from the car to storage this weekend and inventory what is there and what is missing. After that we will move the engine,transmission that was pulled and shell next. Car has been sitting for about 25 right after we saw it last and next owner took it all apart to rebuild it. Going to be easy to media blast the shell as most components have been removed from it. Just a roller now. Thanks.

Yup, already thought of that but see on line most originals have nice caps that cover the end tubes. Have to look on line to see what I can dig up for those. As far as rear bumperettes curvature they look to be parallel to the spare tires so that will work. Just need to know how much curvature they make rounding to the side.

Hi here a few shots of the front bumper. Says Balcrank on bracket. 2 1/4 inch O.D. 1/8 inch wall. Straight part of bar approx. 40-42 inches long .Overall length 65 inches long. Thanks for any help.

O.K. Did not know that. Another learning curve. Will get a photo out tomorrow of front bumper. Thanks for the heads up.

No I have not but it will be on my list as I progress on this. Thanks.

Yes they do. I did find where an AACA member interviewed an employee from the company in the 1960's. And as a result he came up with more info. It would be nice if he was still around or his info stored somewhere. The Butler County Historical Society may have info on this. I will pursue that lead next.

Hi, I have an accessory front Balcrank bumper for our 1921 Dodge Touring but missing the rears. I am looking for curvature arc angle and length they would be. I can shape the pieces in a Hydraulic press I believe but need some dimensions to go by to match what was manufactured. With the spare tire in the middle I can build the 2 bumperette's for each side. I have the front attaching straps so I can match those. End caps are missing on the front bumper but can wing it unless someone can describe what they would look like. Lining up winter projects. Thanks.