Don Jr.

Yes it had one. I saw the spot welds where the original was cut off on the right rear fender. I marked them on a piece of cardboard then ground the stubs off. And they corresponded to the replacement extension. I placed the left rear fender right next to the right rear fender after I clamped the extension on it on the ground. They mirrored each other. I guess I will ask this again. How do I determine if I have the correct back half of a 1921 Touring.? The one I have was purchased at an estate sale a few years ago for me at an auction and was told it was for 1921. What years fit 1921 Touring. The body I bought was a wreck and I cut off the back half for my car. Car originally came with a cut off back end (ala pickup truck). That back end was an early one with the brackets that bolted to the fender and the body. Had a railway express tag on it from out West. Everything looks to fit properly except the grease access holes are wonky.

Hi, working over rear fenders and hung them on the body. I see there is plenty of adjustment to shift the fenders back and forth . I set them so I have centered the front mounting holes to the running board brackets. Adjusted the fenders themselves to look proper at the rear. My problem is the access hole to the grease fitting is not centered up or down. Is this the norm or do I have an issue. The left fender is complete with the extension ( what ever it is called) and has not been damaged. The right rear is not original to the car and the extension was missing. I located another extension and clamped it to the fender mirroring the left fender to check things out before I weld it on. The right rear fender is just as bad. Thanks.

Thank you. That is what I was looking for. Appreciate it. I can shape my new fender washers to look like OEM. And apologize for the delay on answering. For some reason my login does not always come in so I do not get the mail notification. My wonky computer.

Hi, I do not have any remnants or part number. The cowl is part of a period 1930's race car I am trying to get back together. Identified as a 1919 . The hood on it ( not original ) to an overland sits on top of the cowl and see holes for rivets. Did not know how wide and high and weather original was double bump style with rivets in the center of the valley or just plain flat webbing. Do not want the rear of the hood sticking up too much. I will check out some suppliers. Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.

Thank you for all the replies. I will mark info down and get my list and call vendors as I need other parts too. Located the correct pad that sits under the body bolt holes (woven material about 3/8 inch thick) and deduced the correct nut and bolt assembly to tie body to the frame from my jumble of assorted nuts and bolts can. The body bolts are square headed 3/8 inch bolts with hexagon thick nuts. Our tech advisor filled me in on webbing for the frame ( 1/8 inch webbing ) and under the running board splash aprons. Had a remnant of the thinner frame webbing so that explains the two styles used back then. Having a car all apart and in pieces is a puzzle for smaller nuts bolts and brackets. Motor and chassis was fun to sort out as far as the correct bolts but eventually got it. Appreciate all your help.

Got another look at this hole in the rear of the body. It is a 3/4 inch by 16 thread. I looked on line and see there is a special bolt installed into the rear of the body with the 3/4 fine thread into body and a shoulder to bottom bolt out then it narrows down to believe 7/16 thread to go thru the spare tire carrier arm and a nut. Are these available anywhere?

Hi. I mounted the rear fenders to see what needs to align up. I got the body right over the correct holes in the frame. I installed the disc wheel spare tire carrier. I am missing the bolt that attaches the top of the carrier to the body center bolt hole. Looks like it is a 7/8 inch fine thread in the body. Is this correct. Thanks.

Hi, I dug out my bucket of bolts. I bagged them years ago according what I pulled off. And have a bunch of mystery bolts and brackets I will need help on finding out what they are for as they were loose in coffee cans. I found some bent fender washers shaped for the rear fenders so will use them for example of new ones. I found a bag of rather long square headed bolts with square nuts. Assume these are for holding the body on? And in that bag have one rectangle piece of that fire hose material about 1/4 inches thick. Looks like it was white at one time and the hole is the same diameter as the long square headed bolts so assume this is the body mounting spacer? I will photograph the bolts and pad so possibly someone can recognize them . Thanks.

Thank you for the reply. Appreciate the help. Roughed out the rear fenders and primed them. They were all messed up. I went out and see how I will need thinner fender washers under the rear of the body to allow the washers to shape to the contour. I see there are 5/16 and 3/8 standard bolts used to hang the fenders. I tapped the holes to attach the fender next week. Will call Myers to get fender welting for them and radiator shell welting too. Also I remember pulling what looked like pieces of fire hose material that was between frame and body on the donor chassis and body where bolt attached body to frame I do not believe it ran all the way on both rails. I will dig them out to see if i am correct or if this is another patch job.

Thank you, I have the 1926-27 Buick radiator and shell. So rivets to attach. Shell and radiator was used on a period 1930's 2 man race car. Appreciate the reply.

O.K. great. I got a big bunch of bolts with the car in coffee cans. I figured out the front bolts that are caged so I have that figured out. But I have all sorts of washers. I will purchase the thicker fender washers and trim them as someone suggested. I assume no lock washers?

Hi Am looking for the correct hood lacing that attaches to the cowl of the above Overland. Would it be specific or would a universal type work. Thanks.

Can someone direct me to the correct radiator lacing for the above Buick. Would it be just generic or specific. Thanks.

Hi, Would like to know what kind of washers are used to attach the rear fenders too the body. I see the fender holes are elongated. Assume standard style hex head bolts and then lock washers and then either plain round washers or oval ones? Fenders were off the car when I purchased it. Thanks.

Thank you for all the tips and help on this. Appreciate you input. Yes the pool noodle is working great on the rear fenders of an early Dodge Bros. The touring was used as a farm truck when they cut off the rear half on the farm she came from. But before they cut her up I think they just backed the old girl up in the barn and stopped when she hit the wall. ( parking by ear! ) Really messed up the rears and crumpled them up. Learning dolly and hammer bumping techniques on them as I could not hurt them any worse than they are. Being told practice practice practice.

Thank you. Appreciate the reply. I purchased a starter set of Dura blocks and they work very well. And the different shape variety looks like they will be handy for different applications. Looked on line for clarification on this but came up short.

Do not know if this post should be in technical or general discussion. I would like to know if these blocks for sanding should be bent to fit the profile of vintage fenders such as curves. They come dead flat and flex a bit. They are marked with 20 PCF which is 20 lbs. per cubic feet. Do not see any other models with different markings.Do not want to wreck them if they should stay dead flat for other panels. I am currently using a pool noodle with great success at the moment. I called the company to clarify this but as of a week now no answer. I purchased a Karebec block stating it was flexible but it is just as stiff as the Dura block. Will say they are great on flat surfaces. Thanks for any input.

Among what has been stated above, I still have a special tool that removed the nuts holding a circa 1970's Ford radio in the dash. My shop foreman said if I mar up a customers radio with needle nose pliers while removing the radio I would be paying for new parts. It is still in my tool box but doubt it will ever be used again anytime soon. Do not think anyone would recognize it any more but brings back memories of those days.

Well sorry to trouble folks here. Thank you.

Hi, as soon as he lets me stop over and unearth some things in his garage, I will check about the above venting system. That would help. I guess I am going to wait until I see the car itself before I contact the National Nostalgic Nova group. No sense before I can verify some things here. The current owner purchased it from the original owner when it was just shy of 1 yr old. He believes it was 10 months old when he bought it. So it has been in his possession since mid 1971. No one else had it. Any idea when model years changed between 1970 and 1971? I will try and ask him actually when he took possession of it. Again as I was told original owner who was a mechanic of dealership ordered it really late in 1970 and dealership owner pushed the order so original owner had a 1970 car not a 1971 car!

O.K. The sky parted with sunshine and my friend called me with some info I requested. Here is the vin number. 114271W206121. Car is registered as a 1971 Nova but equipped as a 1970 Nova. I asked him to now get me the casting number from the rear of the block and the stamped numbers on the front of the block. During the conversation he said there is only a fuel vapor canister under the hood and does not think there is any other pollution parts under there. He never removed any and does not think previous owner removed anything either. If I can get my eyes under the hood I can verify this fact. Sorry for the long delay on this but making headway with him. Hope the vin number sheds some light on this car.

Thank You. My intention is not to stir up a controversy here. Have contacted a few Carriage builders to see what they recommend. Fully understand this difficulty in obtaining paint form UK. Possibly something has changed in procuring a suitable paint. As I said I was in contact with a guy who did quite a good job using a Waterborne milk paint for his car. Came out quite nice but company he used is closing out colors I am seeking. Placed an order only to find out they did not have stock they claimed.

I was hoping that Ronan could give me some support on what I was doing. I should have suspected when the tech told me Ronan was a subsidy of Kirker paints. Yes I see I can buy on line but need help in identifying and selecting what I am buying and procedure of application would be great. Guess anytime brush painting comes up am always steered to traditional air spraying technique. Being taught the fine points of bodywork from a friend who is very accomplished at the moment. It too is an art form. He make it look easy as I watch him and his projects. I am working on a race car body panels at the moment. I see him and he shows me what to do then I go off and work at it. We meet once a week for him to critique my progress. He said I am getting better.

Yes I would but they come on very small quantities. Tomorrow I will contact another source and see what I can ascertain from them. The guy today told me if I use their Rotan Jappan brush applied paint on a panel it would not dry for several weeks or possibly a month before I could touch it or sand it for another coat. Find that hard to believe. Even if I cannot purchase paint from England possibly they can steer me to someone in the US for this.

HI, contacted Ronan. Their site got me excited with their colors available. Well it was a bust . Their tech advisor said I should go to Kirker Products and work thru a distributor in Ohio using their products instead. Not what I expected. Very disappointing indeed. Thought I had a winner here. Am going to contact Carriage builders next. But thanks for your help. Appreciate the help.