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idrjoe_sandiego

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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. Here's a little more of the story. The endplate leak is actually the first attempt I made at stopping the profuse leaking of gear lube from the box. This particular box functioned well and really didn't need to be rebuilt. Steering boxes (like differentials) are probably best left alone unless they are causing handling problems.

    Once the endplate leak was stopped, I reinstalled the box, filled it up with fluid. Guess what, the fluid just poured out thru the next biggest leaks, which were described earlier (leak#1 & #2) between the two halves of the box and at the end of the sector shaft.

    It was at this point I decided to end the leaks once and for all. So out the box came again. I tore it apart to find the cork gasket was shot between the halves. I then realized the only thing that was supposed to keep the gear oil from leaking out the end of the sector shaft was the bushings. Bushing were not designed to seal anything. The original engineers must have decided "just let it leak." That's when I decided a sector shaft seal was needed. In addition, the bushings obviously wear out in short order, so I replaced these with needle roller bearings. Lastly, the interface between the sector shaft and the housing is not originally a thrust bushing, but a piece of hard leather! You can see it on the shaft in my earlier photos. So I replaced this with a needle roller bearing sandwiched in between two thrust bearings. Now you can really take the slop out of the box. It is incredibly smooth to drive now. Feels like it was when it was new, maybe better. If there is any interest I can post a few photos of how that was done.

  2. Wow John, that Victory is in great shape. If it was part of the package deal from Buenos Aires, Argentina, that one must have been the cream of the crop. Look at that top!! As the story goes, my Dad heard about a group of three guys who ventured down to Argentina to round up a bunch of old cars. The idea was that they would fill a shipping container with six to eight cars from the 20's-30's. When they returned to San Diego, each partner got their pick of one car to keep themselves, while the remainder were sold off as is. The partners then split the profits. Dad heard about one of the three partners who still had his "pick" in the back yard and now needed the money. He apparently had the car for several years where it sat near a dryer vent in the rear of his house. My Dad laughs when he tells the story because it looked like the car had been "tarred and feathered!" The owner lived in Leucadia, CA next to Encinitas and built cool custom tandem bicycles for a living. Dad purchased it over 20 years ago as a right hand drive. Thanks for posting that John. Maybe JB knows where the car is now. The only Victory tourings I have seen are owned by DB Club members back east. JB is one of them. I have a picture somewhere of the other one and I'll post it if I locate it.

  3. George, it looks like you have more than blasting and painting to do. What are you doing about the big bite that's missing from the rim? Welding is going to throw it out of balance. Usually when there is a crack like that, sandblasting will reveal a lot more! Good Luck with it though, I am dealing with these problems on some of my 1929 DA Wire Wheels. Joe

  4. Glen, hi from San Diego. Looking for DA parts: Wire wheels 19" with Snap Rings, starter motor, generator, cowl lamps, distributor, master cylinder, carb. Any Tailights/buckets/mounts also? Could you PM me with the info? Thanks Joe Say Hi to Edna too!

  5. dwollam said:
    Oh believe me, the Ford Model A boxes do indeed leak! One leak stopper for Ford may work on the DB Gemmers. The 2 bolt lower plate with the hole in it? The Ford parts suppliers sell that with a tube welded to it that goes up inside the box above the oil level. Even if they are different (uknown) one may still be able to weld on your own tube.

    Dave-you've got it... that's the answer to leak #3 ...

    See my latest thread on the "how-to"

     

     

  6. Continuing on you will see the completion of the project.

    I will have a few more installments on further improvements that go beyond stopping the leaks and actually improving the performance of the steering box and ultimately improving the handling of your vehicle. The hot rodding continues. Stay tuned...

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  7. The following information is specifically about some modifications I made to my 1929 Dodge DA Gemmer Steering Box. The Gemmer is used in many makes and models of cars so much of this can be applied to other steering boxes. Any information you see here is strictly for amusement. Should you decide to try this on your own automobile, do so at your own risk. The ideas presented here are an amalgam of information available on the web as well as some original ideas as applied to my vehicle.

    The first two parts of this thread can be found here

     

    This new thread will address the biggest leak found with the Gemmer. This leak is at the lower end of the steering box where the lighting switch is located (labeled #34 on the Exploded diagram). Please refer to the exploded diagram of the Gemmer found in the 1929-30 Dodge DA Owner's Manual.

    The idea here is to add a stainless steel tube to the end plate which is about 6" long. The level of the gear oil in the steering box will be lower than the tube's opening,therefore ending the nagging leak. The Ford Model A uses a Gemmer and an added feature in many aftermarket dealers is a stamped steel tube similar to what I describe here. They are usually made very cheaply and frankly don't work very well (in my experience). Additionally, they won't work on the Dodge box as they are different sizes. The following pictures will help describe the procedure.

    The third picture is one I photo-shopped the SS tube in on a side view of the Gemmer so you can see how this idea works. The rest of the pics are captioned and are self-explanatory.

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  8. I will try and get more photos from the seller. It is an older restoration in running condition, with no major issues, I am told. Any ideas as to what an average to above average older restoration on one of these might be worth? If about $15,000 is way out of line (which I think it is), I can stop negotiations now or see if he will take whatever you think it might be worth. The interior looks good as well, and he said he had a mechanic go over it about 6 months ago and it has no major defects, the body and frame are fine, etc.

    Mrcvs-It sounds like you are trying to evaluate a car from a distance. Unless you see the thing with your own eyes and go out and touch it with your own hands, don't waste your time. Ask me how I know. In fact, the car in question looks a lot like your picture. The seller was near Red Wing, Minnesota (just across the Mississippi in Wisconsin). He provided me with some awesome, but small, photos of the car and a marvelous story of how it had been from a museum... So all the way from San Diego I go. 3000 miles this SOB let me come just to find that the "museum" was his barn and the pictures he used to describe the car were at least 20 years old. Needless to say, I didn't come back with the car and they are still looking for the owner. I believe he is in a museum some where. I swear he said he could swim.

    P.S. FYI the smaller the picture, the bigger the story will be.

  9. On my DA I could not find the bearing so I went with a modern sealed type, I had to ever slighly modify a hanger pin to make it work but that took about 3 seconds to do. I kept the grease tube in place so no one would ever know the difference.

    Its easy enough to match up the diam by bringing your old one to the store

    Hotrodder!

  10. It's flat with pinstriping.

    The insurance card says it a 1928 roadster with a vin number of D1003763

    I could not find any numbers on the frame by the right rear spring shackle.

    I think Tony above said that the VIN is on the right hand side of the frame near the REAR SHACKLE of the FRONT SPRING. You may be looking in the wrong place. You still may have to get a wire brush to remove paint and dirt to see it.

  11. The VIN you posted D1003763 doesn't agree with any list I have, since the VIN in the years in question all start with an "A". If the "D" were an "A" then the car is likely a 1928 128/129. If you don't want to verify the actual # on the frame (which you should do), you could measure the wheelbase. The 1923-26 WB is listed as 116" as are the 1927 Models 126 and 124. The later 1928 models 128/129 the WB is listed as 108". Big difference.

  12. Bob , I can't tell for certain from your pictures, but does your cowl vent stick up above the surface like the mystery car does? Your vent appears flat or level with the surrounding cowl. I have seen them both ways in different year Dodges. Perhaps a clue to the year/body?

  13. Bob, I agree with you on the est. price of the car, but I'd love to know where you could get a top for $1000. I'd say at minimum double that, then add another $600 plus for the missing top bows. Then add $400-500 more if you need side curtains made. Add another $150 for the rear window and frame. And that's conservative. If it was a Model A, you could be a bit closer at $1000. In the last year, the bows, the top side curtains and top boot on my DA Phaeton was over $7K.

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