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idrjoe_sandiego

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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. And, somewhere I have a 6 to 12 inverter that I have had for years, where is that darn thing anyway?

    Hey Dave-funny you mentioned that. I just dug out my old ARCHER (Radio Shack/Tandy) inverter-probably the same one you have. Usually once you do find it, you'll realize you have the lost the instruction sheet like I did, so just in case, here it is:

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  2. So, Dr. Joe, did we get a giggle out of you? Sure hope so!!!

    (BTW: That was one good description of a workflow for checking out the fuel path for an older vehicle! Nicely done!)

    Absolutely 1936 D2 !! And thanks for the kind words. I like your pictures of the fuel line before and after exposure to modern fuel. That really hammers home the point and I'm glad you shared that info. Hopefully Zach is out there in the garage as we speak. (Or he has an alternate ride to McDonald's).

  3. Ok then. Now on to leak #2 which spews gear lube out at the end of the sector shaft near the pitman arm. The grease and oil ends up all over your frame rail, then on to the floor. This modification will require a machine shop to complete if you don't have a milling machine in your garage. I don't know what a machinist would charge to do this, but it should be fairly inexpensive. I am only a hobby machinist and it didn't take me long to do this. The research on the proper seal has already been done. Counter-bore your housing to the OD of the SKF seal you see in the photos. Counter-bore depth will be about 75% the thickness of the seal. Apply sealant to the OD of the seal and press fit the seal in place. Follow the pictures below for details and just like that, you're done. No more leaks here!

    Stay tuned...

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  4. Ok, let's look at Leak #1 tonite. Leak #1 is found at the steering gear housing gasket (#40 on exploded diagram). This gasket is supposed to keep the juice from leaking out from between the two cast housing sections. If you really want to stop the leaks, figure on a tear down/rebuild to getterdone. Start by disassembling your box. Taking some pictures along the way can help assure a successful reassembly.

    Next, clean and degrease all the strata of grease/axle lube/gear oil/dirt and who knows what else out of there. You will use your old cork gasket as your pattern to make a new gasket (That's the old cork one you see in the previous post-yea, the one oozing gear oil). I used a roll of 1/16" good quality gasket material to make a new one. When you reassemble the housing, coat the gasket with hylomar gasket sealer. I don't recommend using silicone here. You want this sealer to hold up against a constant exposure to the lubricant, but still must allow the individual housing sections to move. The two cast housing sections will need to be able to rotate with respect to one another when you finally adjust the sector/worm mesh.

    See pics of the broken down box and the new gasket installed. Stay tuned...

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  5. Doug, your Gemmer steering box was not designed with a clean garage floor in mind. It tends to leak from at least three places.

    Leak #1 is found at the steering gear housing gasket (#40 on owner's manual steering gear exploded view-see picture)

    Leak #2 is where the sector shaft emerges from the box going through the hole in the frame

    Leak #3 (the biggest problem) is at the end of the steering box near the light switch at #33 steering gear housing lower end cover gasket. For simplicity, I'll refer to this as the endplate and endplate gasket.

    Click on the attached pictures several times so you can see the exploded diagram details more clearly.

    I got tired of cleaning up this chronic mess and decided to tackle the leaks one by one. That's for the next installment Too late-have to get up early. Stay tuned for the meat and potatoes.

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  6. That's a very cool music video with Social Distortion. I just saw fellow Dodge Brother Ken Sobel and his 1934 Dodge when I was up at The Lazy River Tour in Sacramento two weeks ago. Ken's car is beautiful. It has been in several movies and commercials besides this music video. If you watch closely at the end of the music video they give Ken some print during the credits.

  7. Sorry Doug, I probably should have let you know I was just kidding: NAPA Part#12345 doesn't exist. That's a picture of my master cylinder after I got thru rebuilding it and having it powder coated to resist a DOT 3 attack. That point is moot, as I only use DOT 5 now on collecter cars.

  8. Systematically eliminate the possibilities one by one. Logic and reason are your best friends. This definitely isn’t rocket science. I agree with all the advice you have been given here, but here it is in a cook book format you can print out and go thru one step at a time.

    1) By pouring gas down the carb throat, you have established that the engine will run if it has fuel. Good.

    2) Since the engine dies after you stop nursing it, you now need to establish by a simple process of elimination why the fuel isn’t flowing into the carb. (I am assuming you know something about carbs and fuel pumps and fuel lines).

    3) If the vehicle has sat for very long with fuel in it, you have a classic “fuel turns to varnish” problem. This can manifest itself in many ways, but the ultimate result is no or sporadic fuel flow.

    4) The easiest way to diagnose this problem is start with hchris’s hints. Detach the fuel line at the carb, have someone crank the engine and watch for fuel to flow. The pump should start pumping fuel out of the hose within 30 secs of cranking. (Don’t burn up your starter).

    5) Is fuel flowing here? Once primed, your pump should at least fill up a 16 oz container in about 30 secs. Hopefully more than 16 ozs.

    6) If YES, fuel flows, your problem lies in the float valve inside the carb sticking and not allowing the fuel in the carb bowl. Rebuild the Carb.

    7) If NO, the fuel doesn’t flow on your cranking test, the problem lies somewhere in the tank, fuel lines or pump.

    8) The next step is to see if the pump is getting fuel up to the fuel pump.

    9) First, remove the gas cap and then open the fuel line attached to the pump inlet.

    10) Then, as hchris said, the fuel should immediately start flowing due to gravity and pressure of the six gals you put in the tank.

    11) If NO fuel flow, then add a little compressed air in the tank via the fill where the gas cap was removed. (Caution: Do not add compressed air if the fuel line is still connected to your fuel pump as this will damage the diaphragm).

    12) If still NO fuel flow, the fuel lines leading to the pump are the problem and you obviously need to find the blockage and fix it. (You can try "back flushing" the line with compressed air also. You will hear the air in the tank if the line is clear. It's a matter of time before this crap returns to the fuel line and restricts it again). Replace any flex lines with fuel line rated for modern gasohol.

    13) If YES, fuel does flow before the pump, you either have a blockage between the pump and the carb or your pump has failed. Repair or replace the pump if the remaining fuel line is clear.

    My guess is that your pump is still working since you got to MickeyD’s. Most likely problem in the following order: carb float valve stuck or blocked, fuel lines blocked or restricted, fuel tank gummed up (or all three). Reason: you said the car ran to Micky D’s and when you checked, there was some fuel still present at the filter. The chances of the pump failing just then would be certainly possible but an unlucky circumstance. You were at least getting fuel to the filter if there was some fuel there. Restricted fuel lines usually allow the engine to idle, but won’t run well beyond that. A restricted float valve would empty the float bowl and not allow the engine to even idle.

    Hope this helps. Do the above checklist and return here with your results. We will help you from there if this doesn’t solve your problem. Joe

    NOTE: The above should get you running. However, today's fuel is a real headache for any engine left sitting for more than a few months. If you are restoring this vehicle, or just trying to make it a reliable driver, I would recommend going through the whole system by dropping the tank for a thorough cleaning and inspection, and sloshing it if shows signs of rust inside. Replace the fuel lines with original steel or better yet stainless steel. (Easy to DIY or are available all ready to go). Replace all flex lines with the fuel line rated for modern fuel. Rebuild the pump with a "modern fuel" -safe diaphragm. And last but not least, rebuild the carb (DIY or have a rebuilder go thru it). Short of doing the job right, you will need to keep your friend and his tow rope available.

  9. Doug, here is a table from John Bittence's Dodge Victory 6 Service manual CD. Since the Victory 6 and the DA share the same engine (and nearly the same compression ratio-5.2 in the DA vs. 5.1 in the Victory), this table will provide you with the compression your engine should have. Certainly any alterations from the factory such as milling the head or boring the cylinders oversize will affect the actual numbers you measure.

    I think you said you already ordered John's CD. Since I am publishing this page without his permission, the very least I can do is put in a plug for John's fantastic book of information on the Dodge Victory 6 and all other Dodge Sixes of this era. This is a must have CD. John is the editor of the DB Club News and his email address to order: welshfield@nowonline.net

    Also, I have a complete DA engine gasket set for sale if you are interested in saving a few bucks. I purchased it about 1 1/2 years ago when I was going to rebuild another DA engine I have. This project has been shelved for now, so I will discount the unopened set. If you are interested, PM me.

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  10. I have got a set of five wide whitewall 20" Firestones I just removed and replaced on my 1929 Pontiac Roadster, if you still need some tires. They are in good shape, but I like to replace tires after they have been around awhile. They are more than perfect for rolling stuff around. $75 plus shipping. PM me if interested. Joe.

  11. If Napa is out of stock on the powder coated Master above, you can get a substitute master which is a direct bolt on new in the box ready to go master cylinder for a 1931 Dodge from Rock Auto. I used this as a temporary fix until I figured out the fix for the original. This is Raybestos Part #MC544. You can use it straight out of the box, or you can make a few mods to this cylinder like I did. I just drilled and tapped the reservoir cap on the MC544 and added a fitting so I could run my original Lockheed tin can on the firewall and it feeds directly into the new master. Of course the new master has its own reservoir built in, so you get twice as much fluid in the combination of the two reservoirs. If you use this MC, you must also solder up the small vent hole in the reservoir cap seen in picture three. Without soldering that vent hole, the tin can reservoir fluid would just drain out through the vent hole and you would have a big mess on the floor.

    The first photo is the MC544 before tapping the cap. The second photo shows the MC544 alongside the original DA master and another bolt on substitute, the MC681. The MC681 has the large integral reservoir, but the outlets are "clocked" compared to the original DA. The next three pics show the master after painting and tapping the cap for the tin can reservoir fitting.

    Just to show you the "other" 1929 DA master cylinder setup, here's a few pictures of the original 1929 DA Phaeton setup. The "other" setup is for RHD. This also gives you an idea of the condition of the Phaeton and its components. It was all pretty far gone.

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