idrjoe_sandiego
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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego
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Bob, thanks and I think you have hit a strong point. Understanding E=IR is a good thing, but only if you think to apply it. Thanks again. Doug
Doug, are you referring to Ohm's Law? If so, then I think you mean V=IR. Just to be picky.
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Nice DA. Is the taillight correct on this car? Do you have some pics of the engine compartment-both sides? What's wrong with the motor? Interesting that the hand brake lever is on the door side. I suspect that is necessary to avoid conflict with the passenger seat that moves fore and aft. Joe
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A question I failed to ask is, is it permissable to use a 12 V booster battery i n very short "bursts" to jump start the engine without doing any damage? As to testing for a short, I will do that Having just gotten the car I am not sure all the switches are off but I think they are. Re: the light swithch, where is the off position? Thanks, Doug
Yes, you can jump start the car with a 12 volt jumper battery. Just be absolutely certain all lights and accessories are shut off otherwise you will blow out any 6volt bulbs when the 12 volt jumper is attached. The light switch is in the off position at 6:00 unless someone has messed with it. (5:00 is the for the parking lights/7:00 is for low beam headlights/8:00 is for high beams). Joe
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You can view the DA Instruction manual free at this site- Be patient as it downloads very slowly:
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Bob, if jason doesn't take it, let me know, as I would buy it from you. Can you PM me with price /pics? Thx, Joe
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Ok thanks Reid on the "drop center" explanation. I know exactly what you mean, but I have never heard that terminology. Makes sense though.
So which hubcap looks like Pontiac and which one looks like Chevy?
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Hi Irv-your picture posting worked fine. Yes, these look like the ones I have. Now, I have to go and locate them in parts alley. How many escutcheons do you need and do you need the handles too? Shouldn't be too hard to find, but I've got the flu right now, so it may be a few days before I can look. Stay tuned. Joe
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Irv, I may have some, can you post some pics?
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Reid- Maybe a dumb question, but what do you mean by "drop center wire wheels"?
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Thanks for the info Tin Indian. This is supposed to be a reproduction of a 1930 Pontiac hubcap made in New Zealand. The Indian hubcap sure is a lot nicer than this plain vanilla design. I have a 29, so even though they look similar, that 3/16" is night and day. I would have never guessed that they were not identical. How in the world did you know that kind of detail??... you are right kaycee- he's amazing! Joe
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Most of the Kingston Vac tanks I have seen have a venturie type valve fitted to the to the tank, some were diecast some were brass but they all had an orifice disc fitted . Can anyone out there shine some light on the operation of this device and the reason for different orifice sizes?
Clare, I believe you are referring to the device fitted to the top of the tank. This was used to increase the vacuum to the vacuum tank. Both brands used their own version of this "vacuum amplifier" and both operated on the same venturi principle. They are usually made out of pot metal and are prone to crumbling. Joe
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Thanks once again Ken. I already have the service letter book and the parts book. Surprised there are no decent service manuals, since there are so many service letters and TL's.
I'll check to see if I need the rubber you mentioned. As for the SS bolts, the C&E website lists three different size bolts and says three of each are needed. Clearly that is not correct as there are holes for only six bolts. What size(s) are correct and which ones do you have? And how much do you want for them? I need to see if I already have them or not. There are quite a few boxes yet to go thru, with most of the parts either painted or chromed.
Thanks for all your assistance. Joe
P.S. Any guesses what that other item in the first post is?? Maybe it's not even for the Packard. I just found it in a box with some of the unfinished parts.It looks a bit like the front piece from a manual transmission (where the throwout bearing would slide).
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Well hey there Glen and Edna, (if you are still reading this) how's your adventure going? You probably are still out there in Yuma with the snowbirds. Dad and I sure enjoyed meeting you folks. I sure wish I had the day off when you were here in San Diego, so we could of done some touring together. It's always fun meeting Club members from out of town. I love your car and am enamored by your spirit of adventure. Maybe one day I will get the courage to drive one of these old cars up to see you on the farm/B&B. The pictures you shared of your homestead were really neat. Thanks a million for stopping by- wishing you the best and lots of good times ahead. Joe
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Hey John-I was just thinking about you yesterday when I was driving by on the interstate by your home and wondering if you had taken your car out for a ride. And you are quite welcome, glad to help out another Db'er. My Dad and I enjoyed the afternoon meeting you and your wife; you are gracious hosts. Got a kick out of checking out your car, too. Maybe you can scan and post some of those old pics showing the "before". With a little practice, you will be "double-clutchin" your way to a National DB event!
And Paul- that's an interesting article on the cone clutch. I agree 110% on the "vague enough to be difficult to understand". John, keep us informed if you contact these fellows.
Joe
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I guess I will have to call my buddy, Nicki "the torch" Lorenzo from Detroit to watch my cars while I'm at work.
John, didn't you hear the word on the street: Nicki "the torch" Lorenzo from Detroit was "whacked" by Tony Soprano in Jersey last week. Give it up ,John.
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Hey thanks Ken. I suppose the rubber is sandwiched in between two triangle shaped metal pieces, and then this three piece assembly is then sandwiched between the radiator core and radiator shell. Looks like I need some new rubber, too. Little by little, this project is beginning to take shape. Mostly I am going off of the pictures of other 1932 Packards on the web, and also what scant pictures that are available in the service letters, the parts book and a rather sketchy service book. Does anyone know if there are any better illustrated guides than those mentioned for the 1932 902 Std 8? What service manuals do you all recommend and who sells them?
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Hi Glen and Edna- welcome to San Diego! I will call you to give you the address personally. Looking forward to meeting you both. Joe
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And just as you warned, it drove just like a truck! The clutch seemed especially "grabby" in reverse. That must be a super low ratio in reverse- maybe 4.80-4.90?? All the same, it was neat to actually drive such an early DB. There certainly are a bunch of them at the National and Regional meets, but I never asked anyone to show me how to drive one. It certainly garnished a lot of attention as we tooled around his neighborhood-and there were lots of people outside doing yard work. One lady nearly dropped her rake.
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Thanks Doug- I'll leave the money on the dresser!
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Please PM me with pictures, description and prices with shipping to San Diego, CA. Thanks, Joe
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Well who says you can't drive a 1914 Dodge Brothers remotely?
PROBLEM #1 >A 1914 DB owner and member of the DB club here in San Diego contacts me this morning in need of a little assistance getting his car on the road.
PROBLEM #2 > I've never driven a 1914! I figured, what the heck, you've gotta learn sometime. Dad and I were taking the 29 DA Phaeton out cruising today anyway, since it was about 80 degrees (with the wind-chill factor).
SOLUTION: nearchoclatetown, all the way from Hershey, PA, rescues the situation with a few driving lessons via cell phone. The car runs well and with a little practice the owner can finally enjoy his 1914 DB tourer!
Thanks Doug, your driving lessons were the key. Now he just has to soak that cone clutch with neet's foot oil as you suggested and all will be well. One more DB on the road!
1929 DA Distributor
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Bob, that is the most egg shaped dizzy I have ever seen! I think I'll pass on this one, Thx,Joe