idrjoe_sandiego
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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego
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Some of the guys over at the Packard forum seem to like this product:
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/1Mild%20EP%20Gear%20oil%20JAN%202010.pdf
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Doug, JB is our overworked and underpaid editor of the DB Club News and his email address is: welshfield@nowonline.net
Check your last Newsletter for the DB Club store, as John's CD may be available thru the club store. Otherwise contact him directly at the above email address. The CD is nothing short of fantastic for 6 cylinder Dodge owners 1928-30. He put a tremendous effort into gathering years of articles, data, and info into one well indexed package. Again, the emphasis is on the Victory Six, but the info can be helpful for any DB in this vicinity.
Jason, the first set I did were the brass sleeved MC and WC's. I'll have to get you the part # for the WC kit. The second round were sleeved in SS using the same kits at NAPA. DOT 5 used for both.
I have got some cool info for DOT5/DOT3 debate coming soon....
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Forget to mention, I used a new piston out of the kit.
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Jason, I would probably do the same thing again, but that's only because I know my local machinist does a nice job and under the circumstances, I wanted to discuss the problem face to face with someone (old school). I also like to support the locals whenever I can. That way when something comes up, you can count on them to be there for you. (old school again).
I see no problem with using the well-known rebuilders out there. I heard that Billy, the owner of White Post, recently passed (1 month ago). Just make sure they are aware of the issues this particular master cylinder has. As to price, I think my local guy ended up slightly less, but not by much.
And for editing pictures, I use Paintdotnet (all one word), which is free to download at cnet.com. It's easy to use. Just click on the text tool and add your text in any font on your computer in any color or size. Then save the file and your done. If you need to resize or crop, totally easy to do. As Doug indicated, CorelDraw has a lot more capability, but for us non-graphic artists, cheap and simple is my preference.
John Bittence's CD on the Victory Six has quite a bit of Brake information on Lockheed brakes. While not specifically on the DA, the information is absolutely priceless. He charges only $10 per CD. After I saw it I sent him $20 and I still feel guilty. This is an absolute must-have for all DA and Victory owners.
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Jason, the first time around, I used a company found on the internet do the brass sleeves. He did a nice job on the brass sleeving and he was very nice to deal with. Ultimately however, due to the pesky seal issues between the barrel and the cylinder head, success was never achieved. His first attempt was to replace the thin aluminum seal with the copper seal you see in the photos. Due to the thickness of this copper washer, the cylinder was returned to me "mis-clocked". In other words, the outlet ports were rotated 30 degrees from their proper position. Long story short, this is what forced me to research the problem of the sealing washer.
So as a caution to anyone rebuilding one of these things, only "clean-up" the sealing surfaces removing the minimal amount of material and use a thin sealing washer so as to not "clock" the cylinder head output ports. The viton seal I used worked well and you shouldn't need to use a pipe wrench to torque the head on the barrel like with a metal washer. I have seen a few damaged heads from someone trying to crank these down to effect a good seal.
For the MC and WC's I rebuilt a few months ago, I used a local machinist to make the SS Sleeves. I supplied the material purchased from
http://www.onlinemetals.com Great company!
Here's what I ordered:
Stainless T-304/304L Seamless Tube
1.375" x 0.065" x 1.245" Cut to: 48"
1 piece @ $72.96/piece Shipping Cost: $12.26
This is enough SS to do two cars (2 MC's and 8 WC's ).
And Doug, to save the pictures, simply right click your mouse on the picture while you're viewing it and then choose "save image as". Give the picture your own name or use the name I gave it and choose a directory on your hard drive to save the picture to. I try to save pictures in groups (directory names) so I can easily locate them in the future. The more descriptive the name of the image the easier it will be to find what you need. Names such as IMG98080.JPG don't help much when you try to locate them at a later date.
Joe
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Well thanks to all for the posts and opinions. As I am not on the Packard forum often, I forgot to go back and check your replies.
So even though the gloss looks pretty, it's not how it left the factory- are points deducted for this? Actually, you have all saved me a lot of work, as I was contemplating emulating the engine finish on Matt Harwood's 902 Dual Cowl Phaeton.
And Matt, sorry for stealing your photos- they show some excellent detail of a very fine car. Nice camera work. Any chance you have any more photos of this spectacular car you'd be willing to share?
tbirdman-is the PI judging guide available on the web?
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Ok, now you have seen the typical problems in the DA Master Cylinders. Now on to the solution, starting with a page right out your DA owner's manual. This just happens to be the keys to the kingdom.
Hope this helps Doug. Joe
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Jason you are quite correct on the Master Cylinder rebuild kit that NAPA sells. I'll never forget when the counter guy told me it is part Numero UNO. (He speaks Spanish).
You are also correct in doubting that MC Kit NAPA Part #1 will work properly. It usually won't, on it own, unless you get luckier than I have been with these blasted DA Master cylinders.
The problem is this: the MC kits don't use the same components that the original mfr. Lockheed used. For instance:
1) The valves in the kit are not the same as the "two-way valve" that Lockheed used. 2) Lockheed did not use that big rubber washer that comes with the kit. This is used to make up for some of the shortcomings of using the wrong valve to begin with. and finally the BIGGEST problem with these kits is: 3) The kits DON'T include a crucial component in the successful rebuild of this master cylinder which is called an "inlet valve seat" in the DA owner's manual. (page 66- item #22).
The inlet valve seat is a thin aluminum sealing washer that fits between the master cylinder head and the barrel. Through 80 years of galvanic corrosion and exposure to DOT 3 brake fluid, this sealing washer completely disintegrates. I was surprised when I found one of these still somewhat intact. But finding it helped answer why I could never get a good rebuild that really held pressure even after the cylinders were resleeved. The kits don't include them and my "expert" rebuilder didn't replace them.
So after several frustrating attempts to get a firm pedal after rebuilding these master cylinders, I finally tried something different. I found a Viton washer from McMaster Carr that is inserted between the cylinder head and the cylinder. This works perfectly! With this, you CAN use Napa #1 and get a good MC rebuild.
One more thing, originally I was sold on Brass for sleeves, but I will now say that Stainless is the best way to go. After taking this leaky cylinder apart for the nth time, the brass invariably gets scratched up, just from assembly. Sooner or later some junk will find its way into your cylinder and scratch or score the brass. It's just too soft. And it doesn't cost much more to go stainless. SS will probably out last your children.
And one more opinion. I prefer DOT 5 over anything that can eat the paint off my car. If you have problems with a spongy pedal with DOT 5, you have got a system that is allowing air into it somewhere. Using DOT 5 and the Viton seal I describe, has led me to a firmer pedal and a more consistent braking action than I have ever experienced in a vintage car. If you use your car as a daily driver and you don't care about the paint, you probably will have success with DOT 3. We have a few cars that were converted to DOT 5 over 15 years ago-when I check out the brake systems, there is absolutely no corrosion. If you like re-doing brakes every 5-7 years and love to repaint your chassis components, by all means use DOT 3. In my H.O., there is no better choice that DOT 5 for vintage cars.
Now on to some pictures of the problem and my solution.
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Doug, see what happens when you start lubing stuff! Make sure to follow the instructions in the proper sequence when you do your adjustments to the box. My guess is , the box hasn't gotten the love and attention it should have. Most steering box lubrication ends up dripping out the end all over your poor light switch. You may be looking at a rebuild. Not hard to do (depending upon condition, of course).
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I don't know specifically about 1927 models, but on the 29, the wood artillery wheels have the brake drums bolted directly to the wood wheels. I am going to take a wild guess that the disc wheels that you seek to replace use different drums (drums with the wheel studs, as you state). On the 29 DA, if you were to switch from wire wheels (which use the drums with the wheel studs front and rear) to artillery wheels, the entire wheel with its attached drum is replaced. The large axle nut holds them on, so no wheel studs per se. The artillery wheel studs are more like carriage bolts with the nuts on the inside of the drum.
If they would fit a 27, I have an excellent set of four 1929 DA artillery wheels with perfect drums and good tires for sale. PM me if interested (I'll need to get some pictures). Thx, Joe
EDIT: Just noticed your other post which states you have 20" disc wheels-the 29 DA has 19 inch wheels with 12" brake drums.
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PD- a couple of questions for you? Do you have the same info for a 29 DA coil? Do you rebuild these as well? Have you ever measured the operating temp of these coils? Mine seems a bit hot, but I haven't gotten the gun out to actually measure it. I understand that the epoxy filled coils are great for vibration, but the oil filled are best to run cooler? Any thoughts? Thx, Joe.
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There you go-now I have it. Check your inbox as I have sent you a return email. Joe
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Phil, glad to hear your success with the valve adj. I need to do the same as I hear one tappet making a little more noise than the others. Engine runs great but the tappet sound bugs me.
By the way, I don't know much about the 32's re: fan issues, but for those with 29-30 DA's using the fan to turn the motor should be avoided. I used to do this until I learned of the fan blades cracking.
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Sorry Doug- I don't see it. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place? Joe
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My engine rebuilder painted the engine with Packard green enamel from Bill Hirsch, but it looks a little drab when comparing it to some other Packard engine paint I've seen. Some have used a very glossy paint (see photos) on the head and block. Any ideas what type/brand of paint this is? Is this a BC/CC? Is this correct to use this glossy a paint?
Also some components in these photos use wrinkle paint. I have this on my DL carb, but was wondering about using the wrinkle finish on my NE distributor and O/D starter. Any ideas about a good brand to use for a durable wrinkle finish?
Thanks for your help/opinions. Joe
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I'm quite certain my Italian is worse:
<link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJA7%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Bel lavoro Stefano! Sì, sono un po 'diversa di una versione pezzo, ma credo che le tue sono un po ' più elegante. Come hai fatto a fare le braccia? Microfusione a cera persa o? Sembrano sono acciaio inossidabile lucidato. Sono veramente uscito bello. Il tuo assunto!
E Stefano, che cosa le immagini su dei tappi che vanno nei fori dove la prua in alto poggia andare. Ho visto che li aveva prima volta che avete avuto la vostra auto. Ci scusiamo per tutte le richieste, ma così raro come queste auto sono, ho così eccitato risolvere un altro pezzo del puzzle!
Se qualcuno è interessato posso anche postare una foto della versione di un pezzo della parte superiore dell'arco resto Phaeton. Io conosco solo un Phaeton che ha gli originali e un altro che ha fatto una set basata sulle immagini degli originali. (Ora, se io potessi parlare uno di loro in prestito il loro set per una settimana ....!!) Attualmente sto usando un getto di modifica da una tourer 1927 un tizio dalla Nuova Zelanda è stata la riproduzione.
<link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CJA7%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.hps {mso-style-name:hps;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Puoi postare una foto del numero sulla paratia? Si inizierà con la lettera "q" con tre numeri dopo. Grazie
<o></o> Stefano-Ricordati di voto per il 1930 nel 2016
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Nice work Stefano! Yes, they are a bit different than one piece version, but I think yours are a bit more elegant. How did you make the arms? Lost-wax investment casting or?? They look like they are polished Stainless Steel. They really came out nice. Your hired!
And Stefano, what about pictures of the plugs that go in the holes where the top bow rests go. I saw you had them when you first got your car. Sorry for all the requests, but as rare as these cars are, I get so excited solving one more piece of the puzzle!
If anyone is interested I can also post a picture of the one-piece version of the Phaeton top bow rest. I know of only one Phaeton that has the originals and one more that made a set based on the pictures of the originals. (Now if I could talk one of them into borrowing their set for a week....!!) I am currently using a modified casting from a 1927 tourer a chap from New Zealand was reproducing.
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Vote for 1930 in 2016
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Sorry guys, but I think the original question Len was asking referred to DA brakes. Why are we confusing the issue with parts from other years?
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John, on the DA, your picture looks more like a brake or clutch PEDAL return spring. Jason has the correct picture for the brake SHOE return spring. Myers and Romar both carry them. If one is bad, chances are you need all four.
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Don't forget Jerry Verdone. He's cast some things for me. He works from whatever is left of your parts or from your pattern. He also has a large stock of parts he's cast already. Reasonable prices, too.
Phil
Unfortunately, Jere passed away about 1 1/2 years ago. His wife Marge has taken over. She casted a couple of nice SS parts for me about a year ago. Recent attempts to contact her thru email have not rec'd a reply. Probably best to try a phone contact. Joe
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Interested in 1914 King Touring car to purchase. Will consider any condition. Must have the original V8 engine. Thanks Joe
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Love to be there, but none of my cars would make it if I had to drive them.
John, I'll let you borrow the Speedster.
Paul, actually nothing keeps me out of the pool hall-that is my other hobby!
And Mr. President, I wish I could join you, but a 1932 Packard project has taken priority over the time/$$ equation. I guess I'll see you when the show comes to So Cal in 2013 (??). Joe
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Submitted and approved. Get in the car.
Installation of New DB Felt Seals
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Call me a hot rodder, but why would you use "felt" seals when modern neoprene replacements work better?