idrjoe_sandiego
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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego
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Around here it's sold as "Mineral Spirits". (Home Depot)
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Disconnect the suction line off the canister ( the one that runs to your fuel tank ) and have someone crank the engine with your finger over the end, should feel a vacuum.
Jason, I'm not following you: I think he said his carb was flooding, so apparently the vacuum tank is not the problem. Or was this an answer to his question about how to check the vacuum? If you were referring to checking the vacuum, he could get more useful information by finding an available vacuum fitting on the intake manifold (or put a temporary "T" fitting on the intake where the vacuum tank gets its vacuum and hook up a vacuum gauge-should read a steady 18-21 inches vacuum on a healthy engine). But until you get the engine running, checking the vacuum reading is pretty much pointless. He would be better off checking the compression on all cylinders, something you CAN do with the engine NOT running.
It won't start if it's flooded. Make sure your choke is pulled out and visually confirm that the choke plate is actually closed. Updraft carbs usually won't start without a functional choke. Also, unlike a downdraft carb, DON'T depress the foot-feed to "clear" the flood. You only make it worse. Let all the fuel dry up, also pull the plugs and be sure that they are dry, properly gapped, and free of deposits.
You need only three things to make it run: Fuel, spark, and compression. Doug already mentioned timing--if the motor was just put back together, make sure your distributor is not 180 degrees out-this happens all the time.
Joe
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Do you also need the glass and reflector? Check what your glass says on the passenger side, as you obviously want a mate. It looks like a "Two Lite". If you can't find a name on the small light, you will definitely see a name on your headlight glass. Do your headlight lenses match the lens pattern in the picture? All four lenses should be of the same variety. DA's are notorious for having multiple versions of parts. Two parts may look similar at a distance, but upon further inspection they are different. If that is your passenger-side light in the posted picture, that's the same type lens I have on my DA Deluxe Sedan (Two Lite). My DA Phaeton has a different style known as a "Depress Beam". Both are correct, it just depends on the date of manufacture. I am pretty certain I have an entire driver's side assembly including glass lens, reflector, spring, bulb socket, rim and bracket. I will need to know which lens style you need. PM me so we can get you set up. Thx, Joe
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Mr Dawg-
In 1930 the list of Dodge cars is a little shorter than in 1929. For 1930 the cars available in the Dodge lineup were as follows:
DA Six
￭ 2 Door Business Coupe
￭ 2 Door Phaeton
￭ 2 Door Roadster
￭ 2 Door Sedan
￭ 2 Door Victoria Coupe
￭ Brougham
￭ Deluxe 2 Door Coupe
￭ Deluxe 4 Door Sedan
DC Eight
￭ 2 Door Convertible Coupe
￭ 2 Door Coupe
￭ 2 Door Phaeton 6WW
￭ 2 Door Roadster
￭ 4 Door Sedan
DD Six
￭ 2 Door Business Coupe
￭ 2 Door Convertible Coupe
￭ 2 Door Coupe
￭ 2 Door Phaeton
￭ 2 Door Roadster
￭ 4 Door Sedan
Senior Six
￭ 2 Door Coupe
￭ 2 Door Roadster
￭ 4 Door Sedan
￭ Landau 4 Door Sedan
￭ Victoria Brougham
For 1929 there is a similar lineup but they also had the Victory and no 8 cylinder model:
DA
￭ 2 Door Brougham 5 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Business Coupe 2 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Deluxe Coupe 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Roadster 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Roadster Sport 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Victoria Coupe 4 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Deluxe Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Deluxe Sport Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Phaeton 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Phaeton Sport 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan 5 Passenger
Senior
￭ 2 Door Coupe 2 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Roadster 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Sport Coupe 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Brougham Victoria 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan Landau 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sport Sedan 5 Passenger
Standard
￭ 2 Door Cabriolet 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Coupe 2 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Deluxe Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Deluxe Sport Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan All Purpose 5 Passenger
Victory
￭ 2 Door Coupe 2 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Deluxe Coupe 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Roadster 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 2 Door Roadster Sport 2 To 4 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Deluxe Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Sport Sedan 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Touring 5 Passenger
￭ 4 Door Touring Sport 5 Passenger
If your car is a sedan with dual side mounts, wire wheels, and the upgraded upholstery with window shades, ash trays, rear arm rests, and small lights in the corner of the rear compartment, you probably have the DA 4 Door Deluxe Sedan. Post a few pictures of the exterior and interior along with the serial number, then we will be sure to give you the correct info. As to prices both current and at the time of manufacture, all this info can be found on the NADA classic car price guide website: 1930 Dodge Prices, Values & Specs - NADAguides
Merry Christmas, Joe
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What a DB photographic smorgasbord! The picture of the snake under Bill Gess's 29 Victory Roadster at Lethbridge was a trip. I wonder if Bill knew what lies beneath. Tough area for critters up there-I remember some very nice evenings when it was nearly 11:00PM and the sun was just setting. Loved it. But hated the JUMBO mosquitoes that seemed to enjoy drilling for blood on my body.
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As far as I know open cars did not use carpet at all, the first time it rained and the top were down than it would have become ruined hence the only leather option. I have shown a picture above of the pocket that I believe you are in need of and have never seen any referance to a pocket with a twist fastner but would be interested in hearing where that info was obtained and pictures of an original panel or remnants would be nice.
The red car looks to me as af it has has had its interior changed.
The door panel that I show above is unrestored, closed car had an open pocket I guess because there was less chance of getting articles soaked if in case of shower, open cars had the flap, not sure how this car ended up with a flap but it is original.l
See attached scans of parts book which references Phaetons with 1) "carpet" in rear 2) "Mat" in front compartment 3) door pockets "with flaps". (You'll need to click on the Parts Book scans several times to enlarge them).
On the question of the twist fastener: Most likely the original did not have the fastener. Enclosed are a few more pics of Phaeton interiors, some with the fastener, some without. Note in the Parts Book, the front door panels on the roadster are the same part number as the Phaeton. Most Roadsters I have seen don't have this twist fastener.
In my case, the pockets were copied from what remnants came with the car; these had the fastener. One caveat: the exported vehicles often have variances that are not seen in the domestic versions. Mine was exported to Buenos Aires, Argentina. Most of the existing Phaetons I have discovered are exports and most were RHD. A few have been converted back to LHD like mine and Stefano's in Italy. Dodge Brother Andy Ott, from the east coast, claims to own a Phaeton that was originally a domestic-his is the only one I know of.
And as mentioned earlier, good luck finding an original Phaeton interior.
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I have three cars with fluid drive...listen to Rick.
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I have never dealt with these folks, but they indicate you could send in your sample to get a quote for matching fasteners. Here's the site: RJ&L Obsolete Automotive Fasteners
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Stefano-in case you are interested, here are some picture of the top boot we recently finished. You can also see more interior detail, including the back of the rear seat which is hinged at the bottom and folds forward. This area is used for the side curtain storage. We made a bag with individual dividers to separate and protect each of the six side curtains. The bag is suspended from straps to further protect the curtains from water and dirt. Hanging them in this fashion also prevents them from getting bunched up. Hope this helps. So when are we going to see what's going on over there in Italy?? Joe
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Stefano-here's some pictures of the interior of a friend's 1929 DA Phaeton. This car has an older restoration and looks to be fairly original in most respects. Frankly, I wish you luck finding an absolutely original survivor of this type vehicle. It is tough enough to find any info as it has been estimated only 200 were made and probably fewer than 15-20 exist today (most are not restored). I will post some pictures of my interior as well. My research reveals that the interior was done entirely in leather, including the seat cushions and the door and kick panels. The "neat" pockets were covered with a flap with a twist fastener. The pockets had a "pouch" sewn in to the door panel that takes advantage of the recess in the door. Without this feature, even the smallest item would bulge out, making the already narrow passenger compartment that much smaller. From the Parts Book, it appears that the rear passenger space was carpeted, while the front compartment utilized a rubber mat. I have seen images of an original front rubber mat but have not yet found a faithful reproduction. In the meantime, I decided to carpet the front to match the rear. The original firewall material is a pressed cardboard with an excelsior type insulation. I have an original in good condition, but I sent it in to have a reproduction firewall insulator made out of ABS plastic. They did a great job with the reproduction and it will last forever.
Joe
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There are different models for each year (but same rebuilding kit).
Jon.
Jon, your Packard Carb Rebuilding site is the one I was referring to in my first post. Maybe I am misreading your website information, but it appears that different year models (1929-32 STD 8) use different kits. There are three columns of numbers at the end of each row-- are these the kit numbers or?? Sorry for the confusion.
My original DL 51 has the vent; has anyone seen any service letter re: adding the vent?
Restorer-any chance you have a picture of your air cleaner? I am not sure if I have the original.
Thanksamillion guys--I probably will be ordering one of these recast carbs as you never can tell about that old pot metal. One minute it's ok, the next, it crumbles. Joe
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Jon- Thanks for your input, I always enjoy reading your comments and drinking from your fountain of knowledge. Two more questions for you: 1) If this is, in fact, a 1929 version, how well do you think it might work on a on a 1932 Packard and 2) what is it about the carb that indicates 1929- are we talking linkage issues or ?? Thx, Joe
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I'll settle for a carburetor nurse....Looking for a second opinion before I jump off the deep end.
Has anyone seen one of these Recast Detroit Lubricators Model 51 that are being sold on eBay? There are two versions: one for a Standard 8 and one for the Super 8.
Here is the Std 8>> PACKARD - 29, 30, 31, 32 - STD 8 - MODEL 51 CARB - NEW - eBay (item 250718868486 end time Dec-28-10 12:51:19 PST)
One thing that bothers me (besides the $$) is I recall seeing a carb restorer website listing a different rebuild kit # for each of the different year models (Std 8) from 1929-32. The ebay seller apparently sells the same carb for all years.
Any comments or opinions? Thanks, Joe
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Tinindian- I know this is a year old thread, but unfortunately this problem is still going on. See my discussion at http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html
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Lockhouse and others: Your problem sounds all too familiar. Read my forum threads on the subject. Be sure to click on the pictures for a better look. Here's the link: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html
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Mr Germ: I can't say with absolute certainty the details of the 1927 Gemmer Box, but if it helps at all, I have had both a Ford 2-tooth and a 1929 Dodge DA Gemmer box apart on the operating table side-by-side. The only thing these two shared WAS the sector shaft bushings. These bushings are available new from MAC's and other Ford vendors. A big improvement over these bushings is to replace those bushings with needle roller bearings and to prevent leakage at the sector shaft, install a modern neoprene seal. In my box, I also added Timkin needle roller bearings and thrust bearings as well. This will require some machining to retrofit but well worth the effort. If you need more details on how to accomplish this, you can pm me. Dr. Joe
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So, why then, Mr. Burgess was the thread warning fellow members of this community about a potentially life-threatening situation now "closed"? The names have all been redacted. One possible answer is that by "locking" the thread, it will move down the forum ladder and grow "cold". With over 2000 hits in three weeks, this topic is apparently of some interest to the readers of this forum. The topic is unlikely to grow cold anytime soon. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html
Don't you feel it's your civil duty to advise members that they may be placing themselves in harm's way? Or are we simply "folding like a bad poker hand" to corporate pressure? One of the beautiful things about the internet is the public's ability to share information.
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Absolutely a 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton. This one is in Boston and is For Sale. Sadly, there are probably fewer than a dozen left that are restored. I'd buy it, but I already have one.
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The government agency who handles complaints about defective automotive equipment is the Office of Defects Investigation. This is a sub-agency of the NHTSA which is a sub-agency of the US Department of Transportation. I strongly encourage all who have been victims of this atrocity to file a claim with this agency. The claim form is done online and can be found at this website: Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), File A Safety Complaint
I have also contacted a real human in this department who is VERY interested in this whole debacle.
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Restorer32: Thanks-Great info and history. You know your 900's. Who to turn to for answers about the 902?
I was just back there in your neck of the woods in Gettysburg for the Dodge Brothers National meet. What a great place you have to run around with old cars. Those 45mph two-lane highways just scream old-car touring. Sorry to say, I couldn't stay for the Packard meet. Had to get back to the J.O.B. Joe
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Restorer32: You indicated "All coupes were canvas covered as far as I can determine. Most of the coupes have long since been made into convertibles"
Question: Do you think the same is true for the 902 coupes (on both of your statements)?
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Order a remanufactured body??!! Or try removing your hood lacing, replacing it with a thinner version.
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Matthew, as I understand it, from the testimonials I have received (and finally some of the vendors' own admissions) that the problem started showing up approximately 20 to 24 months ago. That seems to me like a very long time to admit there was a problem (only my personal opinion and does not necessarily reflect the views of this forum). Since you purchased your tubes over 24 months ago, more than likely, yours are "pre-problem" vintage and seem to have withstood the test of time.
I do, however, feel that two comments are in order re: your tube inflation test (admittedly, I am no expert): 1) I would not recommend performing this test as you describe since several folks indicated that when they attempted this test, the tubes literally "Blew up in their face", and 2) Again I am no expert, but I wouldn't count on that test as a fail-safe. Several of my tubes were on the car for a couple hundred miles (two to three weeks) before they shredded without warning. The range with mine was from 1-3 days to three weeks. Failure does not necessarily happen immediately.
Rubber Rejuvination/Restoration
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
According to Wikipedia (if you trust them):
Mineral Spirits, also called Stoddard solvent [CAS 8052-41-3][1], is a petroleum distillate commonly used as a paint thinner and mild solvent. Outside of the United States and Canada, it is referred to as white spirit. In industry, mineral spirits is used for cleaning and degreasing machine tools and parts. According to Wesco, a supplier of solvents and cleaning equipment, mineral spirits "are especially effective in removing oils, greases, carbon, and other material from metal."