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idrjoe_sandiego

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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. Ok. I finally found a pretty good rendition of the details on this for all who may want to know.

    1). Point your browser at this web site:

    1937 and 1938 Buicks www.1937and1938Buicks.com

    2). Scroll down and click on Volume XIV Issue 5 (May-June 1996). You need Adobe Reader to view the issue. It starts around page 19 of the PDF file.

    OR you can download the PDF file directly. Just click to save the file then use Adobe Reader to view it--

    http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XIV%20Issue%205%20(May-June%201996).pdf

    They have a 3-4 page article with details and pictures. A few details are missing here: the exact diameter of the tubing used and what color they were (if they were painted). Thanks again to all for your contributions.

  2. Hi Mike- Thanks for that. I also see a bit of the line that travels from the intake ahead of the carb on its way to the fuel/vacuum pump. Still missing the view of the firewall metal tube to rubber hose transition. Where does this occur? Mike, your lines look like copper. I also am getting votes for 5/16" steel lines. Are they painted or ?? Sorry to badger you all about this, but it is just as easy to bend this tubing up correctly as it is to run it any old way. Unfortunately if I do the latter, then all the experts come out of the woodwork to point out the incorrectness! :)

  3. I am surprised how few pictures there are here of the 1937 Buick engine compartment. Can anyone post some detailed photos hopefully including the fuel pump and vacuum lines on both sides?

    I did find one in the gallery, not detailed enough. I also found this 37 for sale with a couple pictures but I need some idea if the vacuum lines I see here are correct. They don't look like they are, especially the copper line near the firewall. Here's the link: 1937 BUICK ROADMASTER | The Vault Classic Cars Thx, Joe

  4. John, most of the time you will be fine without any sealer on the intake. It all depends on the condition of the mating surfaces. If surfaces were a bit rough, I might use some of the copper spray on the intake gasket surfaces to guard against those blasted intake leaks and lean misfires. I rarely use any spray on the exhaust gaskets and never on the carb gasket.

    Also, I would recommend making carb adjustments as a last resort, especially if you are unfamiliar with it. I'll assume it ran OK before the new gaskets, so chances are your carb is OK. You really never want to touch the carb without good cause and especially never before the engine is fully up to temperature.

    Are you familiar with vacuum leak testing? This should be your main priority. Then try to get it running long enough for the vacuum gauge.

    The big question now is: Even though the engine is not running very well, why won't it stay running? It needs just three things: fuel, compression and spark. Any one of the three not present in sufficient quantity and she won't run. You'll need to find out what you have and what you are missing. I always play detective retracing each one of my steps- what changed between when it last ran well and now.

    Good Luck and let us know about the vacuum gauge results. This will really help with the diagnosis. Joe

  5. John-

    You mentioned your "current status - called and talked to Bob's (I think it was Bob) who said didn't need rings except to center gaskets".

    By chance, I talked to someone at Bob's today also. My question was about the Belleville washers. Because yesterday, when browsing the new Bob's Catalog, I noticed how they will sell you two-thirds of a new exhaust manifold for just under $900! And the proper copper gaskets and intake rings are also available. But alas- no Belleville washers !!

    When I inquired about the washers, I was informed that the '37 Buick does not use Belleville washers.

    My (mis) understanding was that if you fail to use those washers and the anti-seize, that soon you will be ordering yet another exhaust manifold. But what do I know, they are the experts.

    Anyway-I digress. Back to the problem at hand...

    I hope that the new O'Reilly composite gaskets are up to the task at hand. Especially now, after they have been reinstalled again. Sorry to harp about gaskets, but these manifolds were a poor design in the 30's. You need all the help from your gaskets that you can get. (Ask me how I know!).

    John, as other posters have mentioned, you seem to be describing a bad vacuum leak. Did you use any kind of sealer on the intake gasket? And how about the carb gasket? Was this replaced as well? Carb bolts all snug? The fact that she is running better the second time around could suggest that you have done some good, in the process, of eliminating some vacuum leaks.

    If you can get the engine to run long enough to get it up to operating temperature, you might try hooking a vacuum gauge up to the intake manifold. Don't use the ported vacuum at the base of the carb. You should see 18-21" steady vacuum. You can then try slowly closing the choke. A well sealed engine should start coughing with even a little choke. On the other hand, if you have vacuum leaks, your application of choke may actually improve the engine's idle. (This idea only works when the engine is fully warmed up). You can also do the usual tests for seeking out vacuum leaks (propane enrichment or oil, for example-But don't use starting fluid or carb cleaner).

    It is also possible (but probably less likely) that the old gaskets that you replaced were leaking and the carburetor and ignition timing was set to account for it. Now, perhaps, the new gaskets have improved the vacuum leak situation. Now the engine needs to be re-tuned for the present situation. The trusty vacuum gauge should provide some answers. Let us know what your vacuum gauge says. Hope this helps, Joe

  6. Mike-

    I know the clips you speak of. Excellent!

    And at the moment, the rubber vacuum line you describe runs from the firewall and is hooked directly to the intake.

    OK, so what about the vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the vacuum pump outlet? Any idea how that makes its journey around the engine compartment? And the correct vacuum port on the intake I'm guessing is the one just to the rear of the carb (where the rubber hose is now attached)?

    Reason for all the questions--I just finished rebuilding my leaking AC mechanical fuel/vacuum pump. The previous rebuilder incorrectly installed the two small valves in the vacuum pump both with their "legs up". Obviously the pump wouldn't work this way. My guess: Faulty pump led to the vacuum lines being removed. Now, the vacuum pump works so well it is kind of noisy with no lines attached to them. I'd like to get the vacuum lines reinstalled correctly so I don't ruin my new pump.

    Thanks a million for your help. Joe

  7. On my 1937 Buick 90 Limited, someone removed the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump (fuel pump combo). Does anyone have any photos showing the correct routing for the vacuum lines to and from the fuel pump to (presumably) the wiper motor? I assume these were copper lines? What size copper line was used here? Thanks for your help. Joe

  8. Erik, its so true about the Belleville washers. Isn't there also some type of anti-seize compound that is supposed to be used between the exhaust manifold sections? I think you will end up with leaks without this stuff. Was the gasket you purchased from O'Reilly copper? I have found that the non-copper gaskets tend to blow out rather quickly.

  9. Jason, Google is out of control. The governmental agencies are unlikely to be of any help to stop this because of the benefits they enjoy. The GA's would spy on you themselves, but it is far better to have a "private" corporation do the dirty work for them. Even if you could stop their ground-based "spy-cams" you still have to deal with the hi-res cameras they use in satellites. This is no conspiracy-theory, by the way.

    Here's another Google story: Awhile back, my cell phone started dying, so I got an "android" type cell phone because a friend talked me into it. He's telling me how he can't live without it, blah, bla. So I bite on a 30-day trial. I transferred all my contacts from my old "dumb" phone to this new "smart" phone. Then my friend tells me I can really only enjoy the full benefits when I add a Gmail account to this phone. Next thing you know, without my permission, my entire PRIVATE contact list is on the PUBLIC Gmail server! Had I any idea that ANDROID=GOOGLE I would have left that thing in the store where I found it.. I let my "friend" know about it, too.

  10. Hi Shannon- great very original looking Victory! I really like the original raised detail on the old door panel perimeter. Hopefully you are taking LOTS of pictures- these details are priceless. I really like the one pic taken in your garage. Kinda looks like a crime scene--see my edits!

    Keep up the good work- Merry Xmas! Joe

    post-54582-143138752831_thumb.jpg

  11. Curious to know if anyone from the northwest or west coast is going across country to attend the 2014 Dodge Brothers Centennial Meet? Who's with me on this one? John

    Hey John- I'm in under one condition: You have to install a trailer hitch on your '31 just in case my '29 doesn't feel like going that far!

    I am planning a trip in one (or both) of my 1931 Dodge coupes to go from southern Oregon to Detroit. I am NOT planning to tow or trailer the car(s).

    This should be a good trick!

  12. Stakeside- what a nice job! Pretty impressive woodwork. I'll bet you didn't have all that much old wood to pattern off of. Curious that the top slats weren't T&G. I assume you are routing out all of the detail in the slats we see in your top pictures?

    There has been some on going questions re: 1929 Dodge truck motors here on the forum. Perhaps you could post some detailed pictures of your motors esp. passenger side block.

    Thanks, Joe

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