brian1925tourer

I had my exhaust manifold done. They call it key lock. they drill a heap of holes, then make a section of similar material then tap the key in. it is like cold welding. and it was pricey. about $120. so might be best if you start with another block.

Try looking up penrite, they make all sorts of stuff. I use 250 sae? told it is thicker than 600w. worth a look.

mine had a heap of slop in the keyways and the drop arm shaft square drive had way too much clearance. fixed this and that, now only have about 2 1/2 inch slop.

Bob i like the 16 valve head. Tell us how it works, is there a cover over the valves? What type of carby, where does the exhuast go does it use the same cam with push rods? What year? Can i have one pleeease. Well done John on carby conversion. It's great isn't it. Does it look anything like my setup. Regards Brian

I believe the difference between the 2 would be the amount of voltage giving a better spark with a coil. I never bothered changing mine as a I've never had trouble with my magneto.

Not sure what your clutch looks like but my 25 does not have a shaft into the fly wheel. There are pins on the fly wheel that the clutch plates locate on. Maybe your engine is reving to high during gear change, the lub could be way too thin and sometimes you just get a crunch.

Hi, Just reading up on this problem. Will be running very rich with smoke out the exhaust. For fuel to get into the vac pipe means the vac valve is not closing or a hole in the float or broken spring.Either way it means vac valve not closing.

Penrite make a 250 trans oil. Look them up penrite.uk

Hi, found my little plastic jar of grease about 50 gm, it is called water pump grease made by penrite uk. and is recommended for early cars pre 1930

i use what looks like rope impregnated with graphite?, i bought it that way, also i use a white colour water proof grease that is pushed into some small caps that screw on to the pump.I bought this stuff at a swap meet they tell me it is special but not expensive.about $10 all up.

Not sure, it could be jammed in the thread. Might need a bit more muscle on it. Mine is a screw in job. Might not be the correct pin or damaged. If the bit that goes into the cam is bent it could be holding it in. Just went to the shed to look for a spare to show a pic, but could not find one. Seems these things always happen to me and i spend all weekend working on it. good luck Brian

Hi Jeff, exhaust side in middle of motor, I think what your looking for is a pin about 1 inch long with a thread. In the middle of motor exhaust side. About where the magneto would be if you had one. Possibly behind a plate with 2 small bolts covering it. see how you go Brian

Sorry. Thats the new smaller manifold, i had to finish it and quickly bolt it on to take the pics. It is all square now. Also painted it same as motor. looks like a bought one now. Have not tried it yet, maybe on the week end. Brian

gee i wish i had a garage like that one. some people have all the luck.

sorry could not find the info for you. try your question in the main forum.

not much info on 1920's mods, but when my motor came back from the expert builder the pistons poke out the top of the block about 3mm, not sure if this is how they came or a way of boosting compression. you can change the cam grind and the carby. i fitted a holden stromberg down draught carby to my car, gives a bit more go and get an air cleaner with electric fuel pump. and gets rid of a carby that would always pour petrol out.

i was told by members of my car club to use diesel about a litre to the tank. which is far less than 10 per cent kero mix. i do have hardened valve seats fitted. no probs yet. but will give the kero mix a try. your info seems quite good, my books tell me people back then used just about anything at hand to run their cars. regards brian

sure is. according to my dykes book. designed by mr harry ricardo. it's all about the turbulence and getting the most out of the petrol, also said you need less advance. also said that will not fit a 23 or 24, best on my 25er. send to me asap. with thanks brian.

unfortunately there are many people who call themselves experts, and they may build engines everyday, but not this type, so they slap it together most likely even do it heaps cheaper but keep your fingers crossed if it lasts. my expert only deals with this vintage stuff, however only time will tell. there's no reason if your careful that your motor should not give many years service. my crank had .012thou out of round so it was not wise to put it back as is.

i hear where your coming from. i had my motor done by very experienced mechanic in melbourne and it cost me $1800 for grind and bearings. $3200 all up with rebore and pistons. however a very good job that should last. now my book says 1 1/2 thou. but you need 3 thou. so i'm told.you may need some bearing blue to see where bearings are touching. if you do decide to rebore my pistons came from jp pistons in adelaide. i don't have their number but could find it if needed. there's a man called cled davies in bendigo who sells bits too 0419 581 854. happy to give advice. ballarat swap meet coming up soon 23feb? it is huge. heaps old bits.

better stop there.have you measured the crank bearing areas.could be out of round. may need a grind and new bearings.

getting back to the carby problem. must be the wrong one for this motor. may look similar but not the one. that one would fit my "25". with starter/gen.

you maybe right, possibly has been machined before and with the wear it could have become pretty thin. have machined a spare and ready to put back in, this one measures up a bit more than the other so may make a difference. bit thicker where brushes run too. found out i can also get new commutator fitted. just purchased reco starter switch, old on outside but new on inside.

i have some bits and pieces here to make another, but i used all my best in the first one. where the brushes run looks ok but the wires from the armature have been flapping about and the wire casing has shredded into fluff. checked starter switch and contacts look like they may have stuck sometime but are not stuck now. slight burning there on faces, no other damage.never noticed any smoke either. maybe if can get a photo on here you might see something i can't.

local auto electrician,machined armature on lathe , replaced brushes and front bearing. bench tested ok.not sure what amps were set at. worked fine for about 5 hrs use. you think maybe cutout is faulty,and that would be the cause, there's not much inside genny to go wrong.