nickelroadster
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Posts posted by nickelroadster
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I appreciate the thank you but the truth is I get almost as much satisfaction from helping other people out with their cars as I do working on and driving my own. I would like to see you doing some driving too.
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I don't believe that this engine was a Northway design. The 1916 v-8 was designed both by Northway and Oldsmobile and was produced by both. This engine was never painted Northway grey [it was painted black] and Olds spent five million dollars on new machine tools for it. In 1923 Olds sold all the brand new machine tool [made especially for v-8s] to Wills-Saint Clair for one million bucks.
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You can use a sealer like Smiths or west's epoxy sealer [available at Restoration supply] and the use an automotive clear coat over the top to give a natural wood look. A lot of people use marine spar varnish as it is pretty durable. If you leave them unpainted they will start to look like weathered wood [because that is what they will be] Automotive clear coats are made to be sprayed but can be put on with a brush. Using an epoxy sealer is not absolutely necessary but will give a better looking and longer lasting job.
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You are turning out a very nice job. Dogged determination is getting you where you want to go and you seem to have a natural talent for figuring out the things that you make small mistakes on. I am sure that the amount of time you are spending on this paint job is way more than most people would spend but you have the patience to do things until you get it right . Unfortunately if you drive it it won't stay perfect bu that is just life. What did you do with the Metz?
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Just about the end of the line and the most extreme example for the styling concepts it uses. By 1962 the world had gone back to rather "basics". Every era seems to go a little too far with styling of just about everything. Clothes, furniture, housing etc. all seem to go a bit much before the end of the trends
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I switched out my Johnson carb for a BB-1 [with and adapter] because it was spitting out fuel when parked. The exhaust manifolds are on the inside of the V and gas in the valley made me a bit nervous. The BB-1 did the same so I switched back and started turning the gas off at the vacuum tank before I would turn the engine off. Use only alcohol free gas! I have heard many bad things about Johnson carbs but I think most of them concern late twenties and early thirties versions on Cadillacs. I have had no running problems with the Johnson but have no desire for engine fires. Glad to see you got parts to do the engine!
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I am happy to see that you found a spare engine. Oldsmobile claimed that these engines had the highest output per cubic inch at the time. I kind of doubt that this included such engines as Duesenberg etc. and may have been referring to regular production types. Mine seems to be pretty zippy for the year and was reasonably smooth. I hate to see a block get wasted and I would put a lot of thought into seeing if I could find a way to keep it from being turned into beer cans.
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I can't see you floor mat very well in the photo but it doesn't look a whole lot different from the v ribbed vinyl mat from Restoration Supply.
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Looks like windshields from a speedster sort of a car from the thirties or so. Size is just right for something small.
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You were typing just as I posted. I would not recommend that you take the carburetor apart. Get the heads put on and torqued Bring your pressure down and see what that does. You are in a little better shape then you first appeared to be. Don't try to take the carb apart.
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The copper spray is not something that they used when the car was new. It is more something that we use as an aid today. When you say that the gasket "doesn't seal" I am not sure exactly what you mean. By putting a head gasket on and torqueing it down it should have sealed. Are you sure you have the right head gaskets with holes in the right places for the water passages to line up? You need to find out why there is exhaust getting in to the coolant. Are you sure their are no cracks in the block? Do you have a mixture of bolts and studs holding the heads down? You should be fine replacing studs with grade 8 bolts at the hardware store. You don't need loctite on the bolts. Any replacement studs with both coarse and fine threads would be an unknown quantity.
I am with everyone else in pushing for an original type vacuum pump. If you are going to use a regulator, you need to make sure you don't have a positive displacement electric fuel pump. If you do, a regulator set to one pound will possibly burn it out. A good vane type pump that you can use is a Carter 7D04AS04 which will only give you 1 to 2 pounds at six volts. This is probably to much and you will still need a regulator. You probably have a Johnson carb which is an abomination. Pay attention to what Ed says as he speaks the truth.
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The only parts that you need are a functioning vacuum tank and maybe a couple of pieces of tubing. Is the old vacuum tank still on the car? regulators that go down to one pound pressure are available but I wouldn't recommend this if you have a positive displacement electric fuel pump. If you have a vane type pump a regulator would be fine. Vacuum tanks don't even have one pound of pressure built up. Your carburetor is designed for the float to only retard the flow of gas very slightly when it is full. Your current electric fuel pump is probably overpowering the very slight pressure that the float needle has when closed.
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Does this have a faint whiff of a Pontiac?
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I don't know if it is possible to use metal stitching to repair the front main bearing saddle but I would look into it. Some people to talk about it with are the Lock-n-Stitch company in Turlock CA. Look them up on the internet and call them up. They make and use many products to repair items without welding.
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Back in the early seventies I was working in a foreign car repair place. We had a fellow come in with a 1965 Cobra with a 289. We put the clutch in and then the boss said we had to go test it. We both thoroughly tested it out and found that it was working. Some of my friends were saying that a 427 would have been more fun But I thought it was fine. Very memorable.
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I wish you all the luck in finding a way around those issues. I haven't seen any of these engines for sale, only the larger engine.
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I do believe that that your trailer will have a "dual use".
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Do you want the ones that say Buick or Baker? I have a couple or so of them.
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I recently pulled off at the exit for it and went through it. Well worth seeing.
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You need a furniture carpenter and an upholstery guy.
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If that is a Northway engine there should be a lot of people interested.
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Also you might have better luck in the "for sale" section.
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If it was a 4 cyl. it was probably a model 43A built from 1921 to 1923.
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You could sell it right here. Just go to "parts for sale" section.
Aluminum Tape on Exhaust
in Technical
Posted
Maybe it is to fix the leaks. I don't think the adhesive on the aluminum tape is going to last very long.