TexRiv_63

At minimum I will pull the head off and hopefully identify the problem. As for the rest of it, still researching.

Thanks Terry. You might want to look at the other post I started on this subject: http://forums.aaca.org/f169/how-do-i-pick-best-repair-367668.html I may very well dive in and do some work myself since there does not appear to be such a thing as a regular mechanic for cars like this. It seems like most of the restoration shops have an all-or-nothing approach and apparently there are plenty of very wealthy people who keep them in business. I'm still looking and will keep you posted. By the way, there are plenty of hot rod chop shops like Gas Monkey Garage here but there is NO WAY I would ever let them touch a car of mine!

I visited my first shop today, a small place in Dallas. I have actually known the owner and only mechanic since he helped me with advice on the 32 Cadillac I used to have. He specializes in Rolls Royces but has longtime prewar car experience including Pebble Beach restorations. It was an interesting conversation and touched on some of the comments in this thread. He made it clear that handing the car to an experienced restoration shop would result in ridiculous cost because they will not just do small repairs that may result in harm to their reputation, as Matt and Ed have touched on. Also, realistically, they do not want to take time away from high dollar clients to do a low-buck repair job. He could not recommend any shop in the area that could do the type of piecework I need. But as we continued to talk he asked why I didn't want to work on it myself. I told him I was a little scared of it because of my lack of hands-on experience. He laughed and said while the Packard engine was well engineered, it's a very simple design and easy to work on, similar to Nickleroadster, Motoringicons and Rusty12. Maybe I haven't made my car's condition clear. The most immediate problem is one cylinder with no compression, its running on 7. I recently realized it has been running on 7 since I bought it but because the straight 8 runs so smoothly neither I nor a number of car guys I have taken for rides noticed. I find it hard to believe this engine would need a 20K rebuild.

To be clear, doing it myself is not off the table. I just don't want to get in over my head and wind up with a piece of disassembled garage art.

Thanks David, the cost of this is one of my concerns. I don't mind paying for the right level of experience but need some checks and balances. Is asking for references from a shop acceptable? Thanks West, I have bookmarked Tom's shop. I am hoping for something closer to home so I can observe progress firsthand but who knows... I'm going to visit the first shop tomorrow in Dallas, we shall see.

Its been awhile since I posted. I have been regularly driving this car when the weather has allowed and I have not done much more work on it. I did retorque the cylinder head and clean the sparkplugs and while I had them out I did a compression test. Seven cylinders were between 70 and 90 psi but the #4 cylinder only registered 10psi, effectively dead. I feel a little stupid because it is now clear that the car has been running on seven as long as I have had it, it's a testament to how smooth the straight 8 is that the car still runs and drives very well. The tip-off should have been that the idle has a slight shake and the nickel would not balance on the head. So I now have a small laundry list of repairs that are needed: fix the dead cylinder, cooling system cleanout, radiator repair/cleanout, vacuum brake assist rebuild and possibly a few other things. I would love to think I could knock all these out myself but realistically I need to find a local shop. I started a post in the General forum asking how to find a good one and I'm going to talk to local PAC members. But if anyone knows a trustworthy shop in the DFW area that has specific Packard experience let me know.

I have come to the point with my 34 Packard Eight where I need to find a shop to do selected mechanical repair. Depending on a whole lot of variables this may include a radiator repair / recore, engine cooling system cleanout, valve work, piston and ring replacement, brake power assist repair, etc. I would like this car to be a dependable driver able to do tours, but I am NOT looking to RESTORE the car. In the past I have done most of my own work and have considered doing that here but realism is setting in. I have no experience with this type of vehicle and I don't want to start anything I can't finish. The ideal situation would be a local shop with the experience to work on this type of vehicle, willing to work within my limitations and specifications, and possibly do the repairs in segments based on cost. Am I dreaming? I know of a few possible candidates and I plan to contact local PAC members for any suggestions but have not talked to any shops yet. I have read a lot of horror stories on this and other forums so I am approaching this with concern. I would be interested in your experiences and any advice as to the best method to "audition" a prospective mechanic. Thanks in advance for your help.

Take a look at this post from the Oldsmobile section of this forum: http://forums.aaca.org/f138/slim-jim-throttle-valve-adjustment-help-186570.html The roto is definitely an acquired taste but I actually like the way it shifts when it is properly adjusted. The first to second shift is the weird one because of the clutch engagement and a wide ratio change but if you keep your foot on the gas the second to third shift is pretty normal. If your engine and trans were removed from the car and sat for 1 1/2 years you could have a number of issues, inactivity is the worst thing for old car parts as well as people. Some things to check: * make sure manual shift linkage is set correctly in addition to carb, throttle, and TV linkage. (Can't help with the tool) * If not already done change the trans filter and the fluid, filter available at Fatsco. * make sure fluid level is correct, buzzing noise may have been low fluid. Check when hot and run the trans thru all shifter setting before you check. Good luck!

Interesting. As one of the few baby boomers who hasn't lost interest in these cars yet, maybe I can finally find a good one at a realistic price!

Watching the helicopter video down in the hole it looks like there is a cavern below, some spots look very deep...

Ed, not sure if these will help but my 63 had what appeared to be original paint and the bumper was undented so I think it was as produced - good luck.

Clarks is the only way to go if you want quality and materials accuracy, in my opinion.

Jeff, welcome to the forum. A First generation Riviera is a great project choice, one of the best styled cars ever. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Tim, based on a set of NOS covers I once owned the original finish on the outer rim and raised fin areas of the aluminum cap was a semi polished "machined" look. On the 63 only the area between the fins was a dull silver, not sure if it was natural aluminum or painted.

61? to 64 Oldsmobile 394 power steering pump, also the A/C compressor. 63 Buick Riviera 401 also supported the compressor from a head bolt.

Years ago I found a repro of a Chilton Interchangeable Parts Handbook for 1927 to 1933 Cars. It covers Bearings, Engine, Cooling system, Generator and starter, Ignition system, Axles front and rear, Clutch and transmission, Universal joints, Brakes, and Rivets. I've used it a few times and it has helped but it is limited. I think I just downloaded it off the internet, not sure.

I know I've seen a cooler for sale somewhere in the last few months, not sure where. Check Ebay, do a search here in the Buy/Sell and Packard forums, and join the PAC forum at: http://www.packardclub.org/forum/

Your car uses a Purolator L-6 oil filter. You can buy a good reproduction from Burr Ripley that looks like the original on the outside but uses a modern spin-on style filter inside, I have one on my 34. Burr doesn't use a computer, call him at 607-844-8473.

Jay, welcome to the forum. Lots of heavy duty Buick fans here!

Edm, I started this thread for a number of reasons. Initially it was because I knew on this site it would generate a lot of pro and con interest and I was impressed with the size of your cojones for picking such an iconic car as your model. I also personally have always loved the Royales since I saw the one at the Henry Ford Museum many years ago. I also thought this was my kind of Hot Rod, totally unique and in-your-face. I bookmarked your Ebay listing and found myself going back to it, then looking at your website and build photos, then looking at original Royale photos. Like others who have posted I was more impressed the more I looked at the workmanship and the similarities to the original. While its price point will not allow it I would love to own and drive that car! I see you have been lurking on this site since 2006, I'm glad that this thread has gotten you to post and hopefully you will continue to share your projects and expertise when you can. Good luck!

Here is an old video of one of these running after sitting in a barn for many years:

I sold my 63 back in 2009, I mention my departed cars in my signature because I have shared them on the AACA forum. My car had about 92,000 miles when I sold it. I did have to rebuild the dynaflow but the engine ran great. I actually bought that car because the chrome was perfect like yours, I was able to salvage the original paint but I had to replace all the seat upholstery and carpet with repros from Clarks. I also installed a new A/C system from Vintage Air.

Tim, that is a great looking car, you don't have to worry about paint, chrome, or interior right away, much nicer than my car was at purchase. How many miles are on it?

I just looked up photos of the real thing and it's actually closer in proportion than I originally thought. I agree that the back end is the worst part, but I think the wheels are a neat update of the fabulous alloys on the original. I looked at the builders website which has a lot of build photos, the body was done with carbon fiber, not sure about the other panels. I'd bet the offers have at least three less zeros... www.edsrodsandrecks.com