STuTZ693

I have similar type u-joints and the fan bearing also calls for heavy oil. The 250 lube sound good. Where can it be purchased?

Ken, I received your private message and sent you one today but could not figure out how to attach my drawing file so I will attach it here. This is a draft drawing without dimensions. Look at the private message I sent today for my fax number and instructions. Remi Dist Plate 11301.PDF

Old Car Fan, I left you a voice message this morning about visiting you next week. Will you have a table at Hershey?

Need help finding a 5" diameter 30" long round muffler with centered inlet and outlet for 25 Stutz.

Replace the condensor and coil

I have been studying the part in order to produce a drawing and believe that the hardest element to machine will be the angles and bump outs that the cap retainer pivots on. See the attached photo. I will start on a drawing this week. I am going to Hershey and will see if I can find anyone what has already made replacements.

Thanks for the tip. Nice Pontiac!

Need help locating a source for the heavy tab washer that goes between the outer front wheel bearing and the castle nut. The washer is 1/8" thick, 2.00" OD, with an interior tab in the 0.790" ID. The castle nut is a 3/4"-16 nut. McMaster-Carr does not show this type of washer.

Ken, I will take a shot at it.

Ken, I am not an expert at AutoCad but I have had some success at making drawings. I have a Remy distributor with the pot metal plate that has been machined back to the original dimensions so the plate fits onto the distributor, the distubutor cap fits, and point mounting plate freely for manual advance. I will try and produce a drawing for you.

Thanks to both on you for the excellent information. I will follow your procedure. Should I perform the alignment with the wheels on and on the ground or with the frame on jack stands? I have not removed the body from the frame and do not plan of doing that. All of the wood is in good shape and I only want to replace the body bolts and shims. The original shims seem to be have been around 5/32" thick and compressed over time to less than 3/32. There are two shims at each of the 8 mounting points. The wooden cross member under the seat is resting on the frame cross member in that area. I assume there should be some space under the wooden member.

The parts manual for my 1925 Stutz 693 Roadster indicates that the body to frame shims are cork shims. I am wondering if this was a special cork. I removed the shims from two of the 8 body connection points and they look more like piece of battleship linoleum than cork. What is the proper shimming procedure? I would appreciate any comments.

Hi Old Car Fan, Just ran across your 2008 post on SW pumps. I am trying to put together a complete SW vacuum pump for my 1925 693 Stutz 6. When I purchased the car the vacuum tank had been removed and replaced with an electric pump on the fire wall. I purchased a SW pump on Ebay but it had no fittings. I sent the SW unit of to be rebuilt thinking the guy would but fittings on it but found out after he sent it back that fitting were not part of the deal. Anyway, I have a tank that is to be functional with no fitting. I am located in Columbus, Ohio and would like to see your Stutz.

We have removed the old top material on our 1925 roadster and have a lot of tag and nail holes along with some split wood to repair. The from header is the worst. Any suggests and methods on how to prepare the wood for new tags?

I have been bit again by the pot metal bug. The rear main shaft bearing retainer/speedo drive is made of pot metal on the Warner Gear T64-1 three speed transmission in my 1925 Stutz 693. I assume that thiis is a common transmission and speedo drive and that someone has already fabricated a non pot metal replacement. All comments and idea wil be appreciated. Dan Dublin, Ohio

Mike, I have been working on my 1925 693 for a couple of years. I am new to Stutz cars and pre-ww2 cars in general. I have learned a lot and will share info with you if you purchase the Stutz. The Stutz you are looking at should be very similar mechanically to mine. I am no expert on values but have learned quickly that the budget gets busted really quick. Just having the 6 Buffalo wires wheels restored was a big expense but well worth it. Good luck.

Mike, Do you have photos of the Stutz you can post?

Ken, I would be willing to order enough aluminum round stock for your plate and mine from McMaster-Carr. I would have the stock shipped directly to you. They sell aluminum round stock of various diameter and thickness. They have 6061 alloy discs. You can check out the discs by going to the address below. http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-rod-stock/=2023kc Dan DiThomas Columbus, Ohio

Does anyone know the modern lubricant for the lube described in the 1924 Stutz manual as Whitmore No. 45 Auto Gear Composition? The manual lube chart shows this lube being used for things like the fan hub, rear axle, spring bolts, king pins, and tie rod ends. The manual also lists Whitmore No. 7 Auto Gear Composition for the transmission. Thanks in advance for your help.

Steve, I went to the Whitemore web site and it does not look like they deal with anything doing with Antique cars. Have you used their lubricants? Thanks.

Does anyone know the modern lubricant for the lube described in the 1924 Stutz manual as Whitmore No. 45 Auto Gear Composition? The manual lube chart shows this lube being used for things like the fan hub, rear axle, spring bolts, king pins, and tie rod ends. The manual also lists Whitmore No. 7 Auto Gear Composition for the transmission. Thanks in advance for your help.

Robert, I have a 626-J from my 1925 Stutz. After some research, it appears to me that the plate that holds the points is the same in the 626-L and 626-S used on the Studebaker 6. The difference is in the drive and bottom half of the distributor body. Since there are lot more Studebaker than Stutz cars from 1924 and 1925 I posted on this forum. I am new to pre-war cars and have learned a lot in the last two years so I am not an expert at any of this.

Ken, I have not found one yet. I will take you up on your offer. I will send you a private message with my contact information so we can discuss the details. Thanks.

I am looking for a 1923, 24, or 25 Remy 626-J, S, or L distributor. I want to use the distributor as a donor for the pot metal base plate that holds the points, condenser, and manual timing plate. I want to take the dimensions of the donor base plate in order to machine a new base plate. The pot metal base plate on my 1924 626-J has swollen and the manual timing plate will not move. I do not want to disturb the orginal 626-J until I have the new base plate machined.

Has anyone found a replacement for the Remy 626 distributor pot metal plate that holds the points, condenser and timing adjustment arm. My has started to de-laminate.