STuTZ693

I am looking for ideas and suggestion on the best finish for the new walnut dash board I will make for my 1925 roadster.

I am looking for ideas and suggestion on the best finish for the new walnut dash board I will make for my 1925 roadster.

I am looking for ideas and suggestion on the best finish for the new walnut dash board I will make for my 1925 roadster.

I am looking for ideas and suggestion on the best finish for the new walnut dash board I will make for my 1925 roadster.

I thought about Brake Kleen but was worried that it would strip all lub from surfaces where maybe the kerosene may leave a slight lubricating film. As a teen, I read an instruction label on the glove box door of a 49 mercury that recommended using kerosene in the crack case if the car was to be operated in Alaska during sever winter conditions.

Thanks Bhigdog and others.

I drained the 80 yesr old lub out of my 1925 Stutz differential and a lot of slug came out with the old lub. I plan to remove the cover from the rear of the differential and want to know your opinion on the best solvent to use to flush out the remaining slug. I have read in an old manual that kerosene is recommended. Thank you.

Stude 8, The rod in the photo is the good one of the two. The other side has a rod that was fabricated and missing one of the adjusting nuts. I have posted this on the Stutz club site. We were on our way to Hershey last week but did not make it. My wife tripped in a Turnpike rest room on the way and broke her ankle. Thanks.

I have attached photos of the two parts that I need. I believe I can make the adjustment nuts but the threaded rod is forged and I would like to find an orginal. I have to believe that these Timken parts are not unique to a Stutz. Thanks, Dan DiThomas

I am searching for a couple of Timken brake parts for my 1925 693 project. The brakes are of the external band type. I am missing one of the brass ajusting nuts and one of the forged steel threaded adjusting rods. It appears that an adjusting rod was fabricated in the past but I would like to find an orginal forged piece. I have attached photos of the items. Thanks Dan DiThomas dandithomas@gmail.com 614 832-0066

Thanks everyone for the reply. I found that restoration supply has all but the largest clevis pin. I checked with McCaster-Carr for the largest pin, 7/16" dia. X 1 3/4" long, but they did not have it. I will have to make one out of a longer standard size pin. Stude8, Great job. You have inspred me to fabriate the missing adjusting nut.

I am working on the Timken external band rear mechanical brakes of my 1925 Stutz and need help with a few items: Most of the clevis pins are worn and need replaced. Can anyone recommend a source for clevis pins? One of the brass adjusting nuts is missing. One of the threaded ajusting rods is missing. I am going to Hershey next week. Are there any vendors I should seek out for these parts? Thanks, Dan

I would like the name of the famous plater you referenced. We will be attending the Greenfield Village car festival next week end and you would like to pay the plater a visit. Thanks

Wondering who to let know that we will be attending the Stutz club dinner on Thursday evening at Hersey?

Thanks Rusty. Since the clamp was seperate from the air cleaner housing I just assumed it had broken off. I will take a good look at it.

Rusty, You are correct. That is that is the problem. The strut is missing which has caused the air cleaner to put too much force on the clamp at the carb. The clamp has broken off the air cleaner body. What does the strut look like and where is it attached? Thank you for the reply.

Has anyone figured out how to deal with the unusual air cleaner mounting clamp on a 56 Dodge two barrel carb? We have a newly rebuilt engine for the 56 dodge and the last problem to deal with is the original oil bath air filter. The filter has a clamp arrangement that clamps around the carb throat. The clamp would not tighten around the carb and then the clamp broke off of the air cleaner body. We would like to use the orginal air cleaner but think a more sporty air cleaner would look good. All comments and ideas will be appricated.

The air cleaner mounting on the 1956 Dodge V8 two barrel carb has a unique clamp that tighens around the carb throat. The flange clamp does not tighten and has broken off of the air cleaner body. Is there a replacement air cleaner around for this carb? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the great info. Have you ever used a filter in the upper radiator hose to trap engine block rust? I have heard of a glass unit but have no other information.

Chris, Thanks for the reply. I am installing new packing and will take care. I found it interesting that the shaft was worn where the packing rides but the shaft and bushing were still in good shape. The packing could have been the original on this 19k mile 1925 engine.

Thanks Dan and Don.

What is the proper grease for a 1925 water pump? My pump has brass bushings and there are no seals on either side of the impeller. There is graphite packing on the out board side of the bushings. Thanks in advance.

Here is an update on my pot metal generator end housing problem. I gave the pattern maker the go ahead to make the pattern off of the original Remy 917-R end housing. I will have an aluminum casting in a few monthes to machine.

I have attempted to attach a photo. Hope it works!

Hello All, In March of 2007 we purchased a mostly complete unrestored 1925 Stutz. I have not tinkered with an automoble of this era before and are constantly amazed at how well the auto engineers and craftsmen of that era solved problems with the materials and methods available to them. Except for the use of pot metal of course!! The history of this Stutz is unique since the dealership that sold the car in 1925 is still an operating dealership. The dealership purchased the car back from the estate of the original owner in 1951. We purchased the Stutz from that dealership. The odometer indicates an accurate 19K miles and the chassis components and engine bottom end reflect this mileage. We have spent the last year learning how the Stutz was put together, meeting Stutz Club members, researching parts and services, making our first trip to the fall Hershey meet, scraping dirt, cleaning sludge from the oil pan, clearing rust from the water jacket, and, did I mention cleaning dirt. I found a head gasket so I removed the head and found the valve system to be in good order. I lapped the valves and put the head back on. I left the other engine components alone. We started the engine two weeks ago after 40 years. It was very exciting. Since the engine runs and seems to be in sound condition we will proceed with inspecting and working on the brakes so we can take a spin around the block. The plan at this time is to put the car into very good touring condition with the goal of attending the Stutz 100 year anniversary being held in Indianapolis in 2011. I am open to all words of wisdom concerning the restoration of this era of automoble. It is great to have a forum like this to share experiences and knowledge. I will continue to provide project updates. sldan Dan DiThomas Dublin, Ohio