STuTZ693

Joe, Are you the same Joe that has my King Pin????? If so, I will bring you the hubs and spring shackle bushing Dan

Hi Joe, A sleeve on the worst seat maybe the proper repair. What would be the sleeve metal and would he be a press fit or a sweat fit? Have you heard of knurling the bore to decrease the diamater? The wheel hubs are off the car. It looks like the spindle mounting diameter is OK.

What are some of the ways to repair a wheel bearing cone seat? The outer cone seat has worn enough to allow me to remove the cone simply by pushing it out by hand. The inner bearing appears to have frozen up and the spindle was turning on the cone. The wear is pretty bad. The axle is a 1924 Timken.

Hi Ken, Sorry to take so long to reply but I forgot to mark this topic as a watched topic. I purchased a nice walnut board from a local wood working store that sells to professional wood workers here in Columbus, Ohio called Wood Werks (spelling is correct) Supply. I have not done any work on the dash since I am focusing on the replacing the king pins and bushings and still clean 80 years of dirt!!

Jan, used your idea and it worked fine. Thanks.

I need help and suggestions on removing the king pin bushings. Before making a removing tool I wanted run this by those with much more experience than me.

I am restoring a 1925 Stutz Roadster that has a Timken 1035 front axle and the king pims and bushings are badly worn. According to a Chilton cross reference manual the king pins and bushings on my Stutz are the same as on the front axle on a V-63. I am looking for help on finding king pin kits or a reliable supplier. Thanks in advance. Dan

Get in touch with these guys http://www.universalcarnegiemanufacturing.com/index.html I plan to take my 1925 Stutz radiator to them soon.

Thanks. I sent them a sketch yesterday and Ted called me back today. Sounds like they can help me out. Dan

Where can I find a king pin set for my 1925 Timken front axle? I assume that the last resort is to machine as set.

Thanks for the update. Hope to get my 1925 693 on the road for a test drive soon.

Thanks John. Will do.

Thanks. Let me know what you find out.

Ivan, Thank you for your reply. I agree with your comment that this type of repair work is as much art as it is skill. Dan

Hello Ivan, I realize that I am changing the subject of this post slightly but the pot metal end plate, which holds the bushes, on my 1925 Stutz 693 Remy 917-R generator is deteriorating as the referenced starter end plate is in this post. I am having a pattern made in order to cast the part in aluminum. I have yet to locate a machinist locally to finish the casting. Do you have any thoughts on the subject? The ignition point pivoting mounting plate on the distributor, a Remy 626-J is also pot metal and just starting to swell. The point plate does not pivot. Thank you in advance and any guidance will be greatly appreciate. This is my first Stutz project and my first project with a car of the this era. I am an hobby mechanic and working on the Stutz myself as much as I can. I agree with your comments about Bill Greer. When we became members of the Stutz club, Bill sent a hand written welcome letter. We met Bill and a few Stutz owners at the September 2007 Stutz Gathering.

Ron, Thanks for the information. These tall 24" Buffalo wire wheels do look nice on a roadster! I will have the lock rings nickle plated. I like the way that looks and still be period correct. I will take the wheels to Dayton Wire Wheel for restoration and they only paint with conventional paint with hardener added once the wheel is completed. I was thinking of polished S/S spokes and nipples but will be rethinking that idea since it would be difficult to get paint to stick on the S/S if I or someone else would want to paint them.

Thanks for the quick reply. Here is a photo of the correct Stutz Stop light.

I need to find a stop light for the Stutz and do not think I will be able to find an original 1925 Stutz stop light so a nice period stop light may have to do for now.

I need to find a stop light for the Stutz and do not think I will be able to find an original 1925 Stutz stop light. In 2007 while at Hershey we saw a stop light we liked at John Baumgartern's booth (CH74-83) but did not buy it. Last October we were heading to Hershey with a primary goal of going to John's booth and purchase a stop light but only got as far as the Bedford exist on the PA turnpike were my wife inconveniently fell and broke her ankle. Does anyone know how I can get in contact with John?

Thanks for the comments. I like to look of the lock ring being plated since the tires are black walls. I have some time before I take the wheels to Dayton to decide about polished S/S or painted spokes and pained or plated rims. I have seen many cars of the era with polished S/S spokes.

Thanks for the great replies. These wheels are for the 1925 Stutz and I had not thought about the repro look but am aware of the nickle versus chrome issue on a 1925 car. My thinking was that the chrome plating on the lock ring would be more durable than nickle. This is my first project with a car of this era and we are not working towards a 100 point show car but rather a safe driving car. I understand the requirement to have fully restored wheels for safe and reliable driving and the wheel restoration of 6 wire wheels by Dayton Wire Wheel is a one time expensive job as was the purchase of the new lock ring rims. Since Dayton Wire Wheel does their chrome plating in house, should I ask if they can stop at the end of the nickle layer? Suggestions please.

I have purchased new 24" lock ring rims and would like have some input on experiences you all have had with wire wheel restoration. I am considering have the hubs painted black with polished stainless steel spokes and nipples. I think I will have the lock rings chromed but cannot make up my mind if the rims should be black or chromed. I have new black wall tires. Your thoughts please.

I do not have a Buick but I have found the Buick guys in this forum are a great general technical resource. I am working at puting a 1925 Stutz Roadster back on the road.

Thanks for the great input. I had been researching marine products and have found a lot of information, as usual way toooo much information is available on the net, and can see where UV and mositure protection will give the best results over time.

Thanks Dan. I assume that what ever finish I apply I would have to apply it to front, back, and edges of the wood. I have been looking at marine products and wonder if they would be over kill. I have used shellac on interior wood project and consider the dash in a roadster to be more of an exterior application. What are yuor thoughts on a marine varnish?