dictator27

Jerry I'm afraid KMS made a liar out of me! I couldn't get into their website so went to their store. Turns out they are doing a major overhaul of the website and while that was being done looked at the sales frequency of their stock. Apparently sales of thread chasers of any description weren't meeting expectations so they no longer stock them. KMS caters to auto hobbyists, so that was kind of a surprise. They couldn't offer any alternatives, either. Sorry. Terry

A similar topic appeared on the Studebaker Drivers Club forum recently. The same tool was mentioned. A local tool sales company, KMS, stocks them, so that's where I'll be going. Terry

I think the car is European. The steering wheel is on the right and judging from what little can be seen of the licence plate, the picture does not appear to be backwards. Also, the front fenders come to a point, which was not common in North America. The women's outfits are pretty much universal for the time, but the man's outfit looks European. Either French or Italian, maybe? Terry

I have heard of the other methods mentioned here. My car isn't driveable, so that lets one of them out, but maybe I'll try jacking up the opposite wheel when I get to that point. Otherwise, I still think this method of retaining hubs is the devils doing! Terry

That is the deluxe phantom steering wheel, Missy. Look up the Shrock Brothers, they may be able to supply a new one. Terry

I don't know Dodges, but it is safe to say the pickup rear axle ratio will be lower than the car ratio, reducing top speed. Terry

John If the wrench you have on the puller is what you are using to apply the pressure, I honestly don't think you are putting anywhere near enough tension on it. The original reason for my question here is that I am intending to use a tool which can generate up to 350 pounds feet of pressure on the hub. The puller is made of aircraft steel, so it should withstand that easily. Whether or not 82 year old hub threads can is another question, which is why I am concerned about the lack of a clamp bolt on the puller. Like you, I think it is reasonable to assume that the hubs on my car have never been off, and I hope that they would come loose long before I get to 350 pounds, but I wouldn't bet my morning donut on it! I am also anticipating having to hit the end of the puller screw as hard as I can with the biggest BFH I own. A hydraulic puller should be able to produce several hundred pounds of force. I am convinced that this hub arrangement is an invention of the devil! Terry

My father-in-law (a precision machinist) made me a wheel puller for my Dictator. It is an excellent fit. However, it does not have the pinch/clamp bolt on the side of the puller. Is that critical? Obviously, I don't want to strip the threads on the hub. Terry Godkin Surrey, British Columbia

Seaton Stupid question. How do I get photos on this forum? I have two photos of the hub caps I would like to send you. Terry

Seaton I believe I have what you are looking for. It is NOS and measures 2 5/8" across the thread area. It is too small for my 27 Dictator, so I obviously need a 2 3/4" cap. What is the condition of your extra caps? Terry PS I am in desperate need of a Remy model 636P distributor. Does anyone out there have one?

As already stated, this is a very uneducated guess, but as I see it this pump would have been used to inject a measured amount of fuel into tlhe intake manifold for starting purposes. It wouild not be used to pressurize the system. There would not have been a choke. A hand throttle would have been used to provide a fast idle for cold starting. I would say WW2 vintage maybe. Terry

Geoff Your axle appears to have internal expanding brakes. The first year Studebaker used internal expanding rear brakes was 1928. Terry 1927 Dictator

Alan Any automotive machine shop worthy of the name should be able to either magnaflux or dye test the block and cylinder head to determine if they are cracked. They should also be able to fix it. Terry

I agree with Stude8, Victor. The fact that the box is marked "Gov't issue" would indicate to me that it is a part for a military vehicle. A primer would have taken the place of the choke and was probably used in conjunction with a hand throttle. This is a very uneducated guess, but it may have been used on some Studebaker US6 trucks. Terry

Which one, Dave? There are three choices and they don't interchange. No. 1 crank hole 1 1/4" from bottom of shell, core opening 23" long. No. 2 crank hole 2 1/4" from bottom of shell, core opening 22" long, hood(bonnet) 32 5/8" long at top hinge. No. 3 7/8" narrower than No. 2, hood 33 1/2" long at top hinge. What is your serial #? Don't you just love Studes and their running changes? Terry

Bill, your M25 model designation is not correct. Studebaker offered two 4 cylinder cars in 1913, the SA25 and AA35. The AA35 was a one year only model and was not available as a roadster. The wheelbase of the SA was 101 inches, of the AA 115 inches. Terry

The 917A is correct. The third brush should be adjustable. Thermostat is next to third brush. Output should be 18-20 amps cold and 9-12 hot. Maximum output at about 25 mph. Maybe your unit is a change up. Terry

Dave That cylinder on the running board is the acetylene generator for the headlights. Terry Godkin Surrey, British Columbia

This was a car before it was converted to a fire truck. When it was hauled out of the barn 2 1/2 years ago, it had 4 kick plates on the splash aprons. They obviously changed things for 1928, because the spark control on my 27 Dictator is on the dash as per Diane Glew's car in member photos. The fire truck is missing the steering wheel mounted throttle and lighting controls as well as the light switch at the bottom of the column. I'm beginning to lean towards oldford's explanation. Thanks Terry

Thanks, Stude8. The vehicle in question was unit #2 of the White Rock, British Columbia, Fire Department having been rebuilt as a fire truck early in its life. Unit #1 was also a Stude of similar vintage, but is apparently long gone. Number 2 is being restored by a local Shriner with the intent of donating it back to White Rock. The restorer (who is actually a Model A man - this is his first attempt at a Studebaker) has asked me to help him with some details. The vehicle is equipped with Remy ignition, but there is no spark lever on the dash. Didn't all Studes equiipped with Remy have a spark lever? Thanks again Terry

At what serial # was the ignition changed from Wagner to Delco Remy? Thanks Terry

Bruce Which one do you have? The one on the firewall or the one that mounts on the right front of the block? If you go to Studebakerclassics.com and look at the engine he restored you will see a pancake type oil filter mounted on the left side of the engine. Personally I'm with Jerry. I am going to put a spin on filter base where my original oil filter was mounted on the block. I'm not going to worry about hiding it. Terry

Oops! I lied!! I do have a chassis parts book for 1935. It says front fenders for beam axle and independent front suspension cars do not interchange. Other than that they are the same for all body styles. Rear fenders for two and four door sedans are the same, but there was a change made after serial #5501798. Likewise, coupe and roadster rear fenders are the same with a change at the above serial no. I may be wrong, but I think the difference between two door sedan doors and coupe doors is that the coupe doors are rounded off at the top rear corner. Terry

Front fenders will be the same. Two door sedan rear fenders should be the same. Coupe rear fenders would likely not be the same as sedan, but would interchange with roadster fenders. Open body styles are most desirable. Two door sedan is probably the rarest closed body style, but the coupe would likely be the most desirable. I don't have a chassis parts book for 1935 and that is where fenders would be, but I do have a body parts book for 1929-46 Studebakers and according to it, two door sedan and coupe doors are not the same. They have different part numbers. I can't tell you what the difference is, though. In 1935 Dictators could be ordered with either a beam front axle(model 1A), or independent front suspension (2A). Most probably had the beam axle. Terry Terry

Dale In 1928 Studebaker changed body styles three times. First design cars were substantially the same as 1927 and did not have the small reveal panel on the body sides. Second design cars can be distinguished by the reveal and a rounded radiator shell and round gauges, again similar to 1927. Third design cars have the reveal, a flat radiator front and square gauges. Check under the rear seat. The paint colours should be stencilled on the seat board. Prior to second design 28's, Studebaker published their colours in their Service Reference Library, but from February 1, 1928, they stencilled them under the seat. Colour choices did not necessarily move from one design change to the next. I have colours for first design cars and none of your colours are listed. Terry