Dave_B

Try this guy... Bill Randall at The Horn Shop, 7129 Rome-Oriekany RD, Rome, NY, 13440, ph. 315-336-8841. He rebuilds horn motors. Dave

Great looking car!! I think the green would really good. Also I think the driver might need to sit on a phone book to see out the windshield, ha ha. Dave

Thanks for the very interesting info. It is so great to be able to tap into the vast colletive knowledge of all the people reading these forums. Thank you very much, Dave

Thanks for the very helpful info. It is so great to be able to tap into the vast colletive knowledge of all the people reading these forums. Thanks, Dave

I an relining the emergency brake bands on my 28 standard Buick. I only had enough lining material in my stash to do one brake band. This was good old stuff with real asbestos in it(ha ha). I need some more at 1 1/2 inch wide. Any good sources for this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave

This is part of postcard I have of a car parked in front of Gen. Sherman, the giant redwood. I don't recognize the car. Anyone have any ideas? Dave

Greg, I was looking at the molding on my car and the way I did it was to make them equal width. I still have not done the stripe on the wheel fellows or the spokes. So I can"t comment on them. Dave

Greg, Forteen years to paint the wheels sounds about right. I've had my car almost 40 years and there are still some things I need to get to. Ha Ha I guess I just love the process. Dave

Fred, I think your right. The first mention of the body color is just to identify the basic car color. If I am understanding you right... going from the top down it is black, cream, black, cream, and black. It is going to look like five stripes even though it is really two cream stripes on a black molding. When I was doing the research to paint my car I was able to remove the paint from a cheap repaint to reveal the original stripes underneath. Five stripes pretty much all the same size. My colors were just differant then Greg's. I don't see any referance to side curtain color for '23-39. Do you? I would think they would match the top. The dust cover is olive drab. The top bow sockets are maroon and they cost $4.50 a side. What a hoot. The prices in this book just kill me!! Dave

Greg, I found a little more info on the paint scheme. You may know this already but it says in the parts book that the molding stripe on the hood, doors, etc. is painted as follows; 1st type "ocean blue, two cream stripes on black molding" . I think this means there is an ocean blue stripe in the middle, with cream stripes on either side and black stripes on either side of that. Five stripes all together. The 2nd type is the same just ocean blue medium. Also you might want to know that the ocean blue paint schemes are listed as " optional for export". Anyway I think it is gonna look pretty damn sharp. Dave

Sorry I got off on a tangent with the wheel colors, when your original question was about rim color. Anyway since you asked the 1928 model 24 1st type(color scheme I guess) on the wheels is ocean blue hub and drum, black stripe on natural spokes, cream stripe on blue felloe. The 2nd type is the same except the blue is ocean blue medium. By the way if you need new inside door handles 'cause the old pot metal ones broke '32 Chevy roadsters used the exact same handle. 32 chevys are a little more popular these days than 28 Buicks so they are being reproed. Dave

It Depends on the model and color scheme. For example my '28 model 25 is " Talena brown hub, black drum, black strip on spokes, Buick vermillion stripe on black fellow". Whereas the 28 #50 was "avenue green hub and drum, Buick red stripe on spokes, Buick red stripe on green fellow. This is from the 1914-1930 master parts list. The wheel rim, bolts and wedges colors are not given which I take to mean that they were not model specific and probably black like most of the other chassis parts. Post your year and model number and I'll look it up for you. Dave

Martin, Thanks for the good info. I have a question. When you refer to the #10-nnn are you talking about the number on the upper section? the one I am reading as 10-88/4(it could also be 10-89/4)? Or are you referring to the smaller numbers stamped on the lower edge of the float bowl? If more pictures would help let me know. The smaller numbers are hard to read but it looks like 161053 or they could be 101063, it's hard to say. I hope this additional info helps someone figure it out. Interestingly the lower section with the float bowl and metering jets is the same as the '28 Buick std. It is the upper section that is different at the choke rod connection and the air filter connection.

Here is a picture of the other side. Dave

Bought this carburetor some years ago for my '28 Buick standard. But it is slightly different. The opening for the air cleaner is too big for a standard and too small for a master. It measures just a hair under 2". Where it bolts to the heat riser it is the same as the standard Buick, 1 7/8" diameter. On one side on the upper section are the numbers 10-88/4. On the other side on the float bowl 65-10/G. Check ou the pics. I know there is a car out there somewhere that could use this really nice piece. Help me find it a home. Dave

Wow, thanks for all the great ideas.

I need to have the headlight reflectors on my '28 Buick replated. I am looking for shops that do this kind of work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Yes the #s stamped on the bottem read (holding the carb upside down) either 161053 or 101053, the second to last # might be a 6. My 1914-1930 master parts list does not seem to have Marvel parts in it. Dave

I am hoping someone can help me ID a Marvel carb. I was taking a good look at a Marvel carb I have had for a long time and realized that it is not the same as what I am running on my '28 standard. Most dementions are the same except that where the air cleaner fits the hole is larger. It is about a 1/32 under 2 inches. This is too big for a 28 standard but not big enough for the master. It also steps down to a smaller diameter at the choke, 1 5/8 inches. The lever where the choke rod connects is brass and has a larger hole for the choke rod, about 3/8 inch. Another difference is the retainer for the seal around the main jet metering rod is held in place by one of the screws that holds down the float bowl cover. On the side of the float bowl are the numbers 65-10 with a G under cast in. There are also some very small numbers stamped into the float bowl. The best I can make them out they say 101053, or it could be 161053. On the upper portion numbers are stamped 10-89 over 4. I think this carb may fit an early to mid 20's Buick standard. I hope this made sense, I would post a picture but I can't find the camera. Anyone have any ideas?

I think you can get the pistons from Egge machine. Look for them on the web. Dave

What you discribe sounds like the wiper switch. There was no switch on the wiper motor. The vacuum line went to the switch (the one you have), which was mounted in the dash to the left of the steering column. The line then went to the wiper motor. The knob is small and knurled. You turn on the wipers by unscrewing the knob. And that's it.

Michael, I have the honey comb style core in my radiator and I don't think it is so great . It looks super But I am not sure it is cooling all that well. This weekend I got it all warmed up and measured the surface temp of the top tank vs the pipe leading to the water pump. the differance was 10 degrees F. Does anyone know what this differance should be? 10 degrees does not seem like enough to get the job done. Also another possibility for overheating is having the pistons in backwards. I'm not sure about your car but in '28 the wrist pin is offset to the camshaft side. If the pistons are installed with the offset the other way the engine will overheat. I am thinking of droping the oil pan and checking this out. It might be worth thinking about in your situation.

Well there is always something new in this world. I just saw a 2 piece '28 rad cap on eBay. I thought you might get a kick out of seeing it. Search under 1928 Buick in "all categories" Dave

Looks like a 28 standard to me. The master rear wheel used 6 bolts to hold the hub to the spokes. It could be older though. The difference between the 27 and 28 had to do with oil seal. Would have to see the other side.

Richard, I also have a '28 standard which I have owned for almost 40 years. In all that time going to swap meets, car shows, etc. I don't think I have ever seen a 2 piece Buick radiator cap. I guess there could be... but I don't think so. Dave