Dave_B

Leif I think you are right that is a '28 Buick. I am sorry the picture is so big, but it is pretty cool anyway. A man and his dog. They look like a couple of depression era travelers, in a '27 four passenger phaeton, and a Caddy no less. Thanks Guys Dave

OK, I got an 86, not too bad I guess. I messed up on the fan and first battery question for sure, and some other stuff. It was fun though.

I bought this interesting old photo at Hershey but I don't know what the car is. Any ideas?

Oops, sorry. I edited my last entry with the whole number. But just to be sure the number is 614-837-7832.

You can make your own table to check the tack reading. I found this formula on the net. RPM = (mph x gear ratio x 336) divided by tire diameter

Lloyd Young of Canal Winchester, Ohio can install a Borg Warner overdrive in cars with torque tubes. He does nice work and you get about 30% reduction in high gear. I put one of his units in my '28 and I just love it. 55 mph is now a comfortable speed. In your case I'll bet 65 would be easy all day long. Plus you are not holding up traffic when the light turns green, cause you still have that low first gear. I sent him the third member via UPS, he spliced in the overdrive unit and sent it back. I don't know what he charges now but it was about $1300 when he did mine last year. Very reasonable, I thought. His ph# is 614-837-7832. It might be worth looking into. Oh yeah and one more thing, with one these guys in the car you don't have to pull the rear to change the clutch. Now ain't that great! Dave

I hear ya brh. The problem I am trying to address is warm weather over heating. Anytime the air temp gets above the mid 80s the radiator can't handle it. Funny thing though I can run a low speed with less trouble. At about 40 mph or a long hill climb it will get hot in a minute. This all started when I had it recored with a honeycomb type repro core, but the new core does not have the surface area of the original equipment core and so it don't work so great. I was hoping for greater difference in running temp by raising the comp ratio. It sounds like it's not going to happen that way. Btw, I saw in the parts book that Buick sold a high compression head in '28. I'd love to get my hands on one of those. Based on Tinindian's experence when I rebuild this engine I will raise the compression. Dave

That is a late 20's Buick master 6 cyl in front of the pile. It looks like the crosley is on top of another car. What is the car underneath? Dave

OK if I am understanding all this right... higher compression means more energy is going into motivating the pistons therefor less energy goes into heating the parts up. Also there is increased exchange of fresh fuel and exhaust which also increases efficiency. With todays fuels what is not to like here? Next question is what is the best way of raising the compression? Dave

Ed, I had the radio in my '68 Volvo (Bendex,made in USA) rebuilt with new solid state inerds by Mike Hagans. It was a mono AM FM and was converted to AM FM stereo 2 or 4 speakers. It looks the same, all the changes are inside and it works great. He says he can update any radio. I don't know the web site but his ph# is 215-547-7145. Dave

I have heard that increasing the compression ratio in these old low compression engines can cause them to run cooler. I think, for example, my '28 standard has a compression ratio of about 4/1. When rebuilding the engine would raising the ratio to about 6/1 cause it to run cooler. It would still run on regular and would most likly have more power. Could be a win win situation. Or it could be a load of bull. Anyone have any thoughts? Dave

Hi Foy, Normally you would use a hub puller to take the hub off the axel. So, as always, it helps to have the right tool. I have one but I have had trouble in the past, so I find it is easier to take the hub out with the axel. It is really simple. The axel is retained on the inboard end with a large nut held in place with a cotter pin. I drain the rear oil, remove the diff cover, take out the cotter pin, remove the nut. With the wheel jacked up, grab the wheel turn and pull and out it comes. To install reverse the order. I guess it is a similar setup in a '31. Dave

Thanks for the info. I will definatly check it out. Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the reply. I have used something similar on the front end of crank shafts to get a better fit for the oil seal in the timing chain cover. I'm just not sure how it would work in this case. Can they be ordered by size? or by aplication? Who sells 'em? If one could be found and set in the area of the seal contact that just might work. Thanks, Dave

I just figured out how to post pictures myself so I pass it on. Click on "File Manager" next to where it says "post options" and take it from there.

This is an up date on an earlier post. I have been having trouble with a bad oil leak in the rear wheel of my '28 std touring. I have changed the seal twice over the years and it still leaked. Recently I had the brain storm to look at the bearing race where the felt seal makes contact(duh). Well looks like this may be the problem. It is damaged from I know not what. Maybe it got coroded during one of the cars long dorment periods. I don't know. Anyway I need to resurface the surface the seal rides on. So far I have tried rubbing it with 220 wet/dry paper with some oil on the paper. This improved it some but I am open to any other ideas. I have changed the seal yet again, this time useing a modern seal. Check out the Picture. So far the oil leak has at least slowed down if not stopped altogether. It is hard to tell, I am still cleaning up the mess.

As far as I know none of the pre-war Buick 6's had vacuum advance. From what I've heard here it really does not seem like it's worth all the trouble you would have to go through to get it set up. Just my opinion..... and you know what they say about that. Dave

Yeah, I suppose it's just about the fuel economy, but I wasn't sure. I thought maybe I was missing something, I guess not. And I agree with you, fuel economy is not what I worry about in an old car. Dave

I was talking to a guy at a car show and he was telling me about a late 20's Buick he had seen that had a 40's Chevy 6 cyl distributor with vacuum advance. I was wondering why would you want to have vacuum advance? What would the advantage be if any? Dave

There is a guy looking for headlight parts to return his 37 to original from sealed beam. Maybe you guys can work out a deal. Hehe Or you could put in the sealed beam and save the parts to return it to original later? Dave

I was studying the section drawing of the rear and it came to me that maybe there is not enough grease in the wheel bearing. For oil to get to the drain tube it would have to pass the roller bearing in the hub and all the grease in the hub and the bearing. Does this sound like it might be the cause of my masive oil leak? Maybe I just need to repack the bearing? I just replaced the grease seal so I don't think that is it. I donno? What do you all think? Dave

I checked the cover and the fill hole does aline with the bottem of the axel tubes, maybe even a little lower. The oil has stopped dripping from the drain tubes in the backing plate, so I figure about 1qt 4oz is all it can take or it will run out and soak the parking brake. Any thoughts? Dave

Yeah I made the mistake of putting the cover on up-side-down befor too but this time I have it the right way. But I will double check to be sure. I put in new seals when I did the brake job and I can tell the drain tubes are clear by the size of the puddle of oil on the floor. When I filled it, I filled it to the drain hole, but that takes it above the axle tubes. It ran out untill it was about 1 1/2" below the fill hole. I still have oil drops forming on the rivets on the axel tubes. I drained it out and refilled it with one and a half quarts of 85-140. It still ran out the drain tube, but not as much. I guess these old cars drip alot. I know mine does. Anyway back to my question... how much oil are you supossed to put in the rear? Dave

I changed the oil in the rear of my 28 std, but i'm sure I over filled it and ruined the parking brake. Does any one know how much oil it should have in it. The owner's manuel says 2.2 lbs(if I remember right) which I took to mean 1 qt. This does not look like enough. I put in 2 qts and it ran out the tube in the backing plate on the right wheel and soaked the new brake lining. Thanks, Dave

I saw one of these in Berlin MD a few weeks back and I'm pretty sure it had a master engine. Are you sure it is a standard? Dave