Rusty_OToole

That's not too long. Add some stabilizer and the gas should be good for several years. If you drain the tank, put the gas in your new car or lawn mower and use it up. Then buy fresh when you need it. Would be a good idea to take the battery out and charge it up overnight once a month.

Recommended for cars with low compression engines. By 1955 pretty much all cars had high compression engines, about the same as today's. Cars from the 20s and 30s can benefit from some added kerosene, cars from the 40s maybe if you don't add too much. The gas they sold back then had kerosene in it also known as "heavy ends".

If you just can't live without an aftermarket cam in your otherwise stock 2 barrel motor, phone the cam manufacturer's help line and go by their recommendation. To me it's like putting a jockey in pink silks on the back of a Budweiser Clydesdale but to each his own.

These transmissions require a certain driving technique. More or less like an automatic transmission but they require some assistance from the driver. The Gyro-Torque drive is the same as Fluid Drive but with a torque converter in place of the fluid drive unit. This gives them a performance advantage, in fact with the torque converter and 4 speeds to work with, you can get more out of them performance wise than any other automatic of the time. Try this and see if it helps. Briefly here is how the Fluid Drive transmission works. There are 3 shifter positions, High range Low range and Reverse. For High range pull the lever down, for low range push the lever up, for reverse pull the lever toward you and up. These are the same positions as High, Second, and Reverse of a conventional column shift. There is no Low gear position. NOTE later models had a shifter resembling an automatic quadrant. On those models the shift lever goes straight up and down except you have to pull the lever toward you when going into reverse. To start off here is how I like to do it in my car. Put the trans in neutral, if you are not familiar with column shift neutral is between High and Low range positions. So put it in neutral and pull out the hand brake. To avoid that annoying ratcheting sound turn the handle when you pull. Start the engine and let it warm up a minute. Step on the clutch, shift into High range, and release the clutch completely. Now release the hand brake and drive off as if it was an automatic transmission. You are now in low gear of high range. When you get going 14 MPH or more, lift off the gas. You should hear a *click-clack* from the transmission.Once you hear this you can step on the gas again. This means it has shifted into high gear of high range which is where you do most of your driving. You do not need the clutch for this. If you mash the pedal to the floor the trans should kick down like an automatic. At least, if you are going less than 50. When you come to a stop, intersection or stop sign, just use the brake and leave it in gear like an automatic. When you start off it will be in low gear of high range, you have to lift off the gas and shift up again once you get going. For slow driving, or heavy going in mud, snow, sand, or starting off on a steep grade, you can start off in Low range. This is the same as starting off in High range except of course, the position of the shift lever. Once you get going 6 MPH you can shift into high gear of low range by lifting off the gas pedal, same as in high range. If you wish to shift from Low range to High range, use the clutch pedal and shift like a manual trans. To go in Reverse, likewise step on the clutch pedal and shift into reverse, then drive as if it was an automatic. Do not slip the clutch. Use the fluid drive. You only need the clutch when shifting into gear or changing gear lever positions other than that it is like an automatic. It is actually a pretty simple, rugged, and reliable transmission. Much the most trouble free and easy to maintain of the early efforts at automatic drive.

To get back to the original question: were all new cars this bad? It's not easy at this late date to find information on this. But it does seem quality control was not what we are used to today. Some cars were great, some weren't so hot, and some were out and out lemons. On the whole Chrysler products were among the better built and better engineered products, but they were far from perfect. This is the experience of a buyer of a new 1951 DeSoto Suburban, the most expensive DeSoto model. "We bought this car from Art Frost of Glendale, California on November 30, 1951, at a very satisfactory discount from the $4278 sticker price. It was delivered in very poor condition, but I quickly decided not to rely on the warranty, unless something serious developed. Three unsatisfactory trips to their service department convinced me that “I'd rather do it myself.” The first night we had the car, it ran low on oil, due to a porous weld in the Purolator. Fortunately, I had been watching the oil gauge, and no harm was done. Many trim parts were incompletely attached, but I found enough screws in a sack under the rear mat to complete the job. The rear shocks were not attached to the rear axle and the shipping clamps were clanking on the frame. Many other unsatisfactory items appeared for nearly three years. Now I cite this sad situation not out of bitterness or anger, but to make a point. I still had faith in the integrity of Chrysler Corporation engineering and instinct told me that I had a most extraordinary automobile, well worth debugging. So my “restoration” started on a brand new car less than 24 hours old. I had long preached that there's no such thing as a “lemon” - just certain parts of any new car might be citric. Well, in spite of a doubtful start, patience and some hard work have turned this machine into the most satisfactory car imaginable. And it's been so rewarding, that I try to continue the policy of improvement whenever maintenance is required." He wrote about his experiences after owning the car over 20 years and driving it some 180,000 miles so it couldn't be all bad. For a balanced view of the new car buyer's experience in 1951 here is the full report. 1951 DeSoto Suburban cars - long term report / car review with trailer towing

The stock cam for a 68-70 Roadrunner (base 383 4 barrel engine) is actually the cam for a hi perf 440. It was specified for the Roadrunner as much for the lopy idle as for performance. This is an excellent example of a cam that will give LESS horsepower in a stock 2 barrel 383. Believe me when I tell you 2 things 1) to get that big whale moving you need high torque NOT developed horsepower 2) compared to today's engines, if you get the 383 running EXACTLY as it did in 1967 with NO changes, it will feel like a Rolls with a jet engine no kidding. Do not let the "low" 270HP fool you. The large displacement and accompanying high torque will really get the old car moving. Anything you do to increase horsepower will pay off only at speed over 80MPH and most likely kill everyday performance. The best performance improvement would be from and RV cam, 3 angle valve job, dual exhaust and 4 barrel carb on a stock manifold which was an available option that year. But if it was my car I would rebuild it stock and let it go at that. Find out how it performs in stock form. I'll bet it has more power than you need. If you are still not satisfied the 4 barrel carb,dual exhausts and RV cam are simple bolt on extras that can be added later.

If it's a tap tap tap or knock knock knock sound in time with the engine it could be a wrist pin. They sometimes make a noise at idle that disappears when you rev up. If you have good oil pressure that pretty much eliminates a bad rod or main bearing but of course, we can't even go that far until he puts a good oil gauge on there and finds out if he has oil pressure.

Having seen the pictures that car is in much better shape than I thought. With the new paint and put back into condition mechanically it would be worth $5850 by the Old Cars Report Price Guide.

Definitely keep it stock or sell it to someone who will. Anyone who would suggest rodding a car that nice has total sh*t for brains. Lead additive is not necessary. That car was made to run on low lead or no lead gas of much lower octane than today's cheapest regular. If you want to be on the safe side add some Marvel Mystery Oil or upper cylinder oil to the gas. Depending if you have the standard or deluxe model, it may have a conventional axle with 2 leaf springs or a really weird looking independent suspension called "Dubonnet suspension" This was invented by Andre Dubonnet, son of the French aperitif king and a WW1 flying ace, sports car fan and inventor. General Motors built it under license for a couple of years and called it "Knee Action". This was their first independent front suspension. It was used on Chevrolet and Pontiac. After a few years it was dropped in favor of a cheaper more durable design. The one weakness of the Dubonnet design is that it had to be kept filled with oil. If the owner neglected it and the oil level got too low it would lead to erratic handling and faster wear. It needs to be checked and topped up at each oil change with knee action fluid or, a good substitute is hydraulic jack oil. If that car was in good shape it should have no trouble cruising at 50 to 60 MPH. You wouldn't want to go any faster anyway at least on 2 lane roads. Blasting around at 80, with a modern engine, might not be the greatest idea anyway especially from the safety angle. I'm still thinking about that wooden body with chicken wire roof. Speaking of the roof they were made of a material resembling today's vinyl top material. Yours has probably been replaced. When new they were reasonably weather tight. The weak place was the seam around the edge. When the top is replaced this should have a butyl rubber or similar sealer as used to seal windshields. It's OK up to a point but the car should not be parked outside in the rain if you can help it.

poci I have Holiday Affair and the plot is similar. The movie I am thinking of is more light hearted and Californian. I have been going throught the IMDb movie roster. Unfortunately it seems you can only screen for ONE thing at a time. So I have been going through every movie listed year by year starting from 1946 including every cartoon and Hungarian goulash documentary, 1500 movies or more per year. Am now up to # 1054 of 1950, Rakkaus on nopeampi Piiroisen passiakin directed by Wilho Ilmari. I don't think it's the one I am looking for.

I know Bob Cummings in fact I have some episodes of Love That Bob on the shelf. I'm pretty sure he is not in the movie. Tiger you are right it is a question for movie trivia experts. I have already asked all the old movie buffs I know. Thought perhaps there would be a few old movie fans looking at this board.

By the way you are very lucky to have a 1947 Chrysler with the Highlander optional upholstery. They are a classy and unusual car. If you have read and digested the above post you now know your car has a 4 speed transmission that is semi automatic. That is, it drives like an automatic except you have to help it a little.

This question has been answered many times, most recently by me just a few days ago. For your convenience I reproduce my answer here. Call it "Best of Rusty" LOL "This subject has been covered in depth in the Chrysler and Dodge boards, about 2 years ago. You might want to do a search. There is a lot of good info if you search for Fluid Drive. Briefly here is how the Fluid Drive transmission works. There are 3 shifter positions, High range Low range and Reverse. For High range pull the lever down, for low range push the lever up, for reverse pull the lever toward you and up. These are the same positions as High, Second, and Reverse of a conventional column shift. There is no Low gear position. To start off here is how I like to do it in my car. Put the trans in neutral, if you are not familiar with column shift neutral is between High and Low range positions. So put it in neutral and pull out the hand brake. To avoid that annoying ratcheting sound turn the handle when you pull. Start the engine and let it warm up a minute. Step on the clutch, shift into High range, and release the clutch completely. Now release the hand brake and drive off as if it was an automatic transmission. You are now in low gear of high range. When you get going 14 MPH or more, lift off the gas. You should hear a *click-clack* from the transmission.Once you hear this you can step on the gas again. This means it has shifted into high gear of high range which is where you do most of your driving. You do not need the clutch for this. If you mash the pedal to the floor the trans should kick down like an automatic. At least, if you are going less than 50. When you come to a stop, intersection or stop sign, just use the brake and leave it in gear like an automatic. When you start off it will be in low gear of high range, you have to lift off the gas and shift up again once you get going. For slow driving, or heavy going in mud, snow, sand, or starting off on a steep grade, you can start off in Low range. This is the same as starting off in High range except of course, the position of the shift lever. Once you get going 6 MPH you can shift into high gear of low range by lifting off the gas pedal, same as in high range. If you wish to shift from Low range to High range, use the clutch pedal and shift like a manual trans. To go in Reverse, likewise step on the clutch pedal and shift into reverse, then drive as if it was an automatic. Do not slip the clutch. Use the fluid drive. You only need the clutch when shifting into gear or changing gear lever positions other than that it is like an automatic. It is actually a pretty simple, rugged, and reliable transmission. Much the most trouble free and easy to maintain of the early efforts at automatic drive. Half the trouble people have is they do not know how to operate and maintain them. Of the other half, 90% is wiring and using the correct oil in the fluid drive and transmission. Hope this helps, if you want more info check out the search function. If you can get a repair manual or owner's manual it will help you to understand how the fluid drive system works. Or, if you have any other questions we will be here." Here is the answer the last guy gave to the above post: "Thanks for the reply. That was very helpful. After reading this I was able to get out for a test drive and it was perfect. Thank you."

It should do the job on your DeSoto, whether it will work on the other cars I don't know. You might ask on the Studebaker and Oldsmobile boards if they know what the original spec is. Installation would be easier on a cylindrical capacitor but the one you found will be functionally the same. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- LATER. On taking a second look, those are only rated to 85 degrees C. They may not stand the heat under the hood. These 105 degree jobs may do better http://www.futurlec.com/CapElectro105.shtml I would be happier with one rated for 300 degrees or higher. Or, try your motor factor for an automotive type condenser.

Another thing occurred to me today. The 34 Pontiac is one of the last cars made with a wooden body frame. This to me is another argument for preservation or restoration rather than rodding. If you want to cover all kinds of driving, in all weathers, on all kinds of roads a car with a wooden body and a fabric top insert is not a good idea. The best idea I have heard so far, is to fix what needs to be fixed one thing at a time and enjoy the car. In other words preservation rather than restoration or hot rodding. It would also be interesting to get a quote from the rod shop guy. Not an estimate, a firm quote in writing stating what all he proposes to do and the total cost with a guarantee that the work will be done to your satisfaction, by a certain date, for a firm price. With a penalty clause for being late or not doing the work to your satisfaction. I can practically guarantee he will not be willing to do this unless it's for the price of a new Cadillac.

When starting from cold it is best to depress the gas pedal part way slowly then release it to set the choke. Starting hot it should not be necessary to touch the gas pedal. But if it does not start right away it may help to hold the throttle open slightly.

Joe he's going to do what he wants no matter what we say. I'm just trying to dodge all the plaintive requests for help after he gets his car torn apart and finds out it's not as easy to build a rod as the kid at the gas station said. I'll leave it for you to explain how to do 2000 hours work in 20 hours, with no knowledge skill or tools and where to buy $5000 worth of parts for $500. Or, refer him to the HAMB. They will take care of him. Yes they will, one way or the other.

Ha ha ha Sears doesn't sell Binford, they sell Craftsman ha ha ha.

The original condenser was .25 to .28 microfarads. Voltage is no problem as long as the condenser is rated for a high enough voltage, a 12 volt will be fine on 6 volts. If you can't find one that will fit into the original position it will work just as well attached to the coil and connected to the points side. Today's mylar capacitors are far more durable than the old tinfoil ones. A new capacitor (same as a condenser) will last the life of the car.

Have any of these wisenheimers actually built a hot rod? A rod may be worth more IF it is REALLY well built. Hacking a junkyard motor into an old klunker won't cut it. To get $12000 for that car you will have to spend at least $20000 on it. I am not joking, ask anyone who built a really nice hot rod what it costs. And don't think you can cheap out and get the big bucks, before a buyer will shell out $12000 they will go over it with a fine tooth comb. You can't believe how picky people can be when that kind of money is involved. I have had a hand in building a few rods. NONE of them were worth as much as the owner had in them. In other words, if you want a hot rod sell that car to a restorer and buy one already built. You will save untold time and grief and thousands of $$$$ bucks.

If it was in good shape that car should hold the road at 50 to 55 fine and have a top speed of around 85. It would be easier and cheaper to restore it than to rod it, and when you were done it would be far more valuable. I know it SOUNDS easy to replace the engine, transmission, rear axle, suspension, brakes, etc etc etc but if you try it you will find out it is FAR easier to repair what is there already. Or, if you really want to be able to drive anywhere in air conditioned comfort, buy a Camaro. Don't try to turn that car into a Camaro, it isn't worth it.

My impression is that it starred Kirk Douglas but I have gone thru his filmography several times and there is no such movie listed. I have also tried to figure out what other actor of the time I could have confused him with, and drawn a blank.

40 years ago I saw a movie on TV and for years I have been trying to remember or figure out what it was, without success. It was a black and white comedy made in the late 40s. The plot concerned a young athlete who was trying to woo a young widow with 2 adorable boys about 5 and 7 years old. She is struggling to raise the boys with no husband, hers was killed in the Navy. He is a health nut of the blackstrap molasses, muscle beach variety. She wants nothing to do with him but he persists. He persuades her to go to his favorite health food bar. He offers her a Potassium Cocktail at which she looks dubious, until he explains that it is non alcoholic at which she looks even more dubious lol. That is about all I remember. I only saw part of it on TV. Does this ring a bell with anybody?

That oil pressure is actually on the high side. I hope some sap head did not talk you into using good ol' non detergent, single weight, heavy oil.

If you have 60 PSI oil pressure it's not your bearings, on the other hand if the gauge is on the fritz that leaves us back where we started. A kind of rattling knock when the engine is idling. Could be any one of a million things none of them good. No other symptoms at all? All I can suggest is to have it looked at by someone who knows what he is doing. But you probably already figured that out.