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Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. The transmissionis supposed to shift when you lift off the gas at over 14 MPH in hi range. The shift takes about 1 second or 1 1/2 second. One thing that can cause the trans not to shift is low oil or wrong oil in the transmission. The transmission is supposed to be filled with #10 motor oil.Its supply is separate from the fluid drive, you check it by a pipe plug on the right side like any manual trans.
  2. I would use 10W30 like everyone else. Maybe 15W40 to mask the symptoms of a worn engine if it is bad but not in a good engine. Check the manufacturer's recommendation, they probably called for 10W30 when it was made. That was what we used in everything made in the 50s 60s and 70s. If you just did a complete rebuild synthetic may be a good idea. Depends how long you plan to keep the car, and you should check with the oil maker to find out if they recommend it for a car getting only occasional use.
  3. Something is seriously wrong. You will need to investigate. At least take off the intake and valley cover. If your engine is an early 53 it may have the early style lifter with a removable insert. Late 53 up uses a modern type lifter. A 1" gap is too much to be a worn cam.
  4. There used to be a special fluid drive fluid made by Chrysler. This has been out of production for years. Some use automatic transmission fluid. Others recommend tractor hydraulic fluid. That's what I use. I don't remember the exact name but it's something like TBH fluid for Transmission Brakes and Hydraulics. The grade is ISO 32. It's under $10 a gallon at auto parts stores and farmer's co-ops. By the way you might have better luck with technical questions in the Dodge forum below.
  5. And don't park under any more trees. Does anyone know which trees are the worst to park under for ruining the finish on your car? I'll start the list off with falling trees LOL.
  6. Value of 1952 Windsor club coupe, condition #3 "Very Good" $9000 #4 "Good" $4000 #5 "Restorable" $2400. Your car would probably fall in the "Good" to "Very Good" category. You shouldn't have too many problems with your experience. Don't know what you mean by brake cylinder "revision", new brake cylinders and rebuild kits are available. The Chrysler Centerplane brakes on that car are about the most efficient available at the time. Of course they don't compare to modern disc brakes but if you keep out of real bad hiway traffic you should be ok. They are at least as good as what's on your Caddy.
  7. I have a technique for driving a fluid drive that works very well and makes it practically the same as driving a modern automatic. Start the engine with the transmission in neutral, the hand brake applied and your foot off the clutch pedal. Let the engine warm up until it will idle at its slowest speed. Depress the clutch pedal shift into gear and release the clutch, all with the handbrake still on. Release the handbrake and drive away like any automatic. When you get up to 15 MPH lift off the gas and wait for the "click-clunk" and step on it again. This is very easy, it is based on the owner'
  8. First of all are you in Canada or the US? That would be a clue. Second look under the hood at the ID plate on the firewall and at the plate on the doorpost, one or the other will give the country of origin. Probably the firewall one.
  9. I sympathise, I used to own a 1952 New Yorker. Now that battleship had a lot of chrome and almost all of it was pot metal. Managed to find a few NOS pieces but the chrome was so poor they needed to be replated after they were on the car a year.
  10. I happen to have a 1951 DeSoto coupe which is almost the same. I can tell you they are a comfortable well made car with no real bad faults. But you must remember that car is over 50 years old and there has been a lot of progress in the last 50 years. For a start it is going to be slow, heavy and sluggish to drive compared to a modern car. That is part of the character. The Fluid Drive is a transmsission all its own, neither a standard nor an automatic. There are a couple of excellent threads on how to drive and maintain the fluid drive, in the Chrysler and Dodge message boards.You should look
  11. Rusty_OToole

    Fuel Pump

    I thought they all allowed fuel to flow thru??? The old ones I am used to worked this way. If you can find the old style low pressure pump for carburetors that was used in the 60s.
  12. There are lots of cars around that are 50 years old and they weren't sealed in a concrete vault. If it was reasonably dry it should be in excellent shape. I think the car and everything else belongs in a museum. If the ground water didn't get in my guess is it would be in the same condition as a car that was stored in a garage maybe better.
  13. The Spitfire marking on the head indicates a Chrysler flathead six. The number C48 indicates it came from a 1950 Chrysler Royal or Windsor. C48S = Royal 6, C48W = Windsor 6. They were identical in bore, stroke and horsepower. I don't know what the difference is if any. Bore and stroke, 3 7/16 X 4 1/2. Displacement 250.6 cu in. Horsepower 116@3600. Torque 208 ft lbs @ 1600. Oil pressure 45lbs@45MPH. This would make an excellent engine for a 54 Dodge pickup. If the pickup was made in Canada it will bolt right in. If it was US made you may have to make room at the front of the engine by moving th
  14. If you like newer Packards there is a murder mystery called He Walked By Night starring Richard Basehart. In it the villain spends a scene working in his garage with his 1950 Packard convertible. There is another movie Sudden Fear with Joan Crawfor being stalked by Jack Palance in a 1952Packard Mayfair.
  15. If anything the big block chev head design was copied off the Chrysler polysphere. Chev introduced it (1965) just as Chrysler was getting rid of it. Actually the 348 and 409 had staggered valves, the new head design leaned them at an angle. This was the Polysphere design Chrysler had been using since 1954.
  16. Can anyone identify this model, Studebaker Whiskey Six? I'm sure it's not an official name. But during Prohibition there was a Studebaker that was popular with rum runners and bootleggers that was give that nickname. I believe there was such a thing because I have seen the same name in a couple of different books and they were not fiction, they were history or reminiscences of old time rum runners.
  17. Try writing or calling your local DMV. It varies from state to state. I know here in Ontario Canada it's a piece of cake. You give them the VIN and they check it out. If it's not stolen and you have a bill of sale they give you a new ownership.
  18. I was surprised to find out recently that Chrysler DID make dual exhausts and dual carbs too. They were used on 6 cylinder flathead engines in big trucks. I don't know what year or model but I believe 1 or 2 ton and larger, dump trucks etc, up to 1962 or whenever they stopped making flathead truck engines. Some of these would interchange with the DeSoto - Chrysler long block engine but they also made exclusive truck engines in the 300 to 400 cu in range.These would be much bigger than the car engine and manifolds would not interchange. But the 250 or 265 cu in model will. This is the engine th
  19. I would suggest you vacuum them and cover them with seat covers. All the old cars with good upholstery I have seen had seat covers or were stored inside. Sun will kill those seats in a couple of years if not sooner.
  20. Rome was not built in a day and neither are old cars, they are mostly built at night LOL.
  21. There is a used pair on Ebay. Bid last night was $5. They are listed as 1947 or 48, are they the same?
  22. The Inliners International site has some great ideas. Try the Mopar section. On the overheating all I can suggest at this point is to make sure the rad is clean and not plugged up and likewise your engine coolant passages. Try running some CLR mixed with water in your rad. Get it at the hardware store, it removes calcium lime and rust. Put 1 container in your rad and fill with clean water, drive 50 miles or so (in one go if possible) and drain it out. Might take more than one application. I can't be responsible if this causes rad leaks. The CLR will not hurt your rad but if it removes the cake
  23. The more I think about it the more I think your symptoms sound like the shift levers are loose on the side of the transmission.
  24. The supercharger I plan on using is a McCulloch VS57 made by the McCulloch chain saw people between 1953 and 1957. It was designed for the 1953 engine which was typically a flathead 6 or 8 of 200 to 300 cu in and 100 to 150 HP. Most of the testing was done on 239 cu in 100 or 110 HP Ford flathead V8s. The VS stands for variable speed and refers to a variable speed belt drive. This is arranged so you can get some boost from 2000 RPM, full boost from 3000 RPM. Yet when you don't have the gas to the floor the blower slows down and "loafs" at a lower speed. The downfall of this supercharger was th
  25. You've got me there. The only 3 brush generator model I ever owned was a 1947 Indian Chief motorcycle and it responded to moving the brush. All I can suggest is you try to find an old time auto electric repairman. I would try to help but from this distance there isn't much I can do.
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