joe_padavano

1. the BROWN wire powers feeds circuits that need to be powered with the key in either RUN or ACC (think radio) 2. the PURPLE wire is the START circuit feed that powers the starter solenoid via the NSS 3. the RED wire is the power feed to the ignition switch that is hot all the time. In the original harness it would have been protected by a fusible link. 4. the PINK wire feeds circuits that are only powered when the key is in RUN but not ACC. 4A. the fuzzy WHITE wire is the resistor wire that feeds reduced voltage to the points after starting, only when the switch is in the RUN position. If you have an electronic distributor this wire needs to be replaced with solid copper. 5. the YELLOW wire is the bypass wire that feeds full battery voltage to the points only when the key is in the START position. You need both this wire and the replaced resistor wire to ensure the ignition system gets power both when cranking and when running. 6. the GREEN wire is the lamp test function for the HOT lamp. The hot sender provided ground to the lamp when the engine overheats. This wire does the same thing when the key is in the START position. If you are not using the idiot light you don't need it. 7. the WHITE wire to the voltage regulator should be a resistor wire that provides the signal to turn on the regulator. If you have a 12SI alternator this would connect to the #1 terminal on that alternator. If you have a one-wire alternator you can't connect this wire and the alternator won't be charging at idle as a result. 8. the RED/WHITE wire is just using a second set of contacts in the ignition switch to avoid overloading a single set. You want to keep that if you keep the OEM switch.

Are you looking for the block casting number or the VIN derivative stamp?

The factory shop manuals will always be a better choice than the cliff notes. And have you looked on ebay? The factory manuals for the OP's Buick are running about $25. Here's one for $22.50.

Welcome but you are responding to a sixteen year old thread. All 1973-up Olds motors used EGR. All small block Olds intakes from 1964-1990 bolt up but as I've noted, the ports in the 260 intakes and the A5 intakes used on the 1985-90 307 motors are small and will cause a flow mismatch on other SBO heads. Yes, the A4 aluminum intakes from the 1981-84 307s bolt directly to the 350. They don't flow any better than the OEM iron intake but as you note, they are 1/3 the weight.

Sonax P/N 34910S-01

Pretty much any shop that sells TH400 parts should be able to source that stator shaft.

Be aware that your 66 has a switch-pitch TH425. These 1966-67 transmissions used a unique torque converter. Fatsco has them on an exchange basis. That damaged shaft is the stator shaft and fortunately it's common between the TH425 and TH400 (and also common between switch-pitch and non-switch-pitch transmissions) so that should be relatively easy to find. Original GM P/N is 8623177. The smaller shaft is the turbine shaft, and fortunately it does not appear to be damaged. This part IS unique to the switch-pitch transmissions.

There are more than a few on the market already.

I frequently have people ask me at cruise nights if my car is for sale. I reply that everything has a price. I also know that they have no intention of paying anywhere close to what I have into it, nor do they even have a clue as to what it costs to put together a reliable running, driving car. I usually point out to them that the price they want to pay is likely a fraction of my investment, and my labor was free. That's when they walk away.

Curb weight is about 4200 lbs. As for electrification, here's a kit that GM currently sells. The battery pack took up the entire bed in the El Camino they used as a demonstrator. Total cost is well into five figures.

Actually, I think pricing is becoming less regional. The interwebs and high-end auctions have everyone convinced that their ran-when-parked POS is worth a million bucks.

Your drawing unfortunately doesn't specify which way is forward. 😉

OK, you've now exceeded my knowledge of Fords. 😁 Thanks for the correction. In that case, definitely look at bad control arm bushings or damaged control arms.

Are you sure one wheel is toed in but the other isn't toed out? You probably know this car has a solid rear axle. It's pretty difficult (but not impossible) to bend the axle housing in that direction in normal use. Yes, a pretty hard accident would do it, but there would be other evidence of that. It's far more likely that the entire housing is misaligned relative to the car. Check for proper location of the housing on the leaf springs, possible broken spring leaf, work or damaged spring bushings, or damage to the leaf spring anchor points on the underside.

From my post above: Nope. The Northstar installation uses the same control arms and spindles from the FWD cars. The steering rack and tie rods are replaced with rigid links that lock the steering in place. Those have not yet been installed in this photo. This is exactly what GM did when they used the Citation FWD drivetrain in the back of the Pontiac Fiero. Fiat also did this when they used the 128 drivetrain in the back of the X/1-9.

These Briggs and Stratton keys and locks were used by all GM divisions. Yes, THAT Briggs and Stratton. Chrysler also used B&S locks.

The Toronado section is at the back of the 1966 Chassis Service Manual as an appendix. I have to be honest - if this shop couldn't find the Toro section in the CSM, I have significant doubt about their ability to find a problem in the car. 😲

I was fortunate to get a tour of David Cammack's Tucker collection before he passed away and donated it to the AACA museum. What an amazing collection of cars, prototypes, literature, NOS parts, experimental engines... just amazing.

The letters designate the key blank. Starting with the 1967 model year, GM used different groove configurations on the sides of the blade each year to increase the number of potential key combinations. Keep in mind that with only six tumblers of five different heights, there are only 7,776 possible key configurations (actually less since they didn't use keys that were six of the same tumblers, for example). GM built millions of vehicles each year that used these keys. The key blanks rotated every four years. A (ignition) and B (trunk) were used in 1967, 71, 75, 79. C and D were used 1968, 72, 76. E and H were used 1969, 73, 77. J and K were used 1970, 74, 78. These appear to be aftermarket.

As we've seen time and time again, ANYTHING will be ripe for abuse. In any case, here are the definitions in the text of the law: "Antique motor vehicle" means every motor vehicle, as defined in this section, which was actually manufactured or designated by the manufacturer as a model manufactured in a calendar year not less than 25 years prior to January 1 of each calendar year and is owned solely as a collector's item. "Collector" means a person who owns three or more vehicles and who collects, purchases, acquires, trades, or disposes of such vehicles, or parts thereof, for his own use in order to preserve, restore, and maintain such vehicles for hobby or historical purposes. "Collector motor vehicle" means a motor vehicle owned by a collector that is used primarily in shows, parades, charitable functions, and historical exhibitions for display, maintenance, and preservation and is not used primarily for transportation. I have to agree with jdome. Since the collector car registration specifically prohibits using it for cars that qualify for an antique registration, I see this as creating another category. The antique category specifically states "manufactured or designated by the manufacturer as a model manufactured in a calendar year not less than 25 years prior". The new collector car designation would apply to recreations, kit cars, etc.

Modern fillers adhere to epoxy primers. Priming first also keeps the surface clean.

Glenn, the way I read this, the Collector Vehicle plates are for vehicles that do not qualify for Antique Vehicle plates. In the full text of the law, it says this: F. No collector motor vehicle shall be registered as an antique vehicle pursuant to з 46.2-730 or as a military surplus motor vehicle pursuant to з 46.2-730.1.

Typical of movie cars (and movie stars 😝). Think about the Camaro that was used as a stand-in for the Challenger at the end of Vanishing Point.