gundog99

IE 8, I have finally accessed your site through google. Thank you for making the manual available on the Webb. Although my Dodge is a 1927 "6"; looking at slightly later manuals can be very useful, espectly as from about 1929, they all tend to be more technical than there predecessors. Any chances of down loading the Parts book at some future date? It would be great if we could have all the manuals and parts books on line.

I have tried to open your directory link, unfortunately Windows Internet explorer is unable to connect. There might be a fault at your end.

I Bought this Valve lifter on eBay .How old is it and was it used for any particular Dodge ? "Speed - o - valve lifter pat pog dodge no 3"

This may seem a silly question. How do you test for which type of DOT is in the brake system?

There is an excellent oil debate on the Dodge &Dodge Brothers forum "Let's Talk Engine Oil..." Most of the specialist vintage car heavy single-grade and classic multi grade oils sold today, have many of the advanced additives of modern oils, but are formulated for older cars. Great care is needed when choosing Transmission oils;EP type oils may damage the bronze bearing in pre war cars and should be avoided.Dodge Brothers cars of the 1920's ran on 600W oil ,as well as lubrication, the heavy oil also made gear changing a lot easier by slowing the transmission gears; this is probable the same for other makes.My1927 Dodge Senior (6CYL) has 250 SAE oil in both gear box and the rear axle.

Is your car fitted with an oil filter? As I understand it multi grade detergent oil holds the residues in suspension, until they are removed by filtration ;with non detergent oil, the residues mainly fall to the bottom of the sump as the oil passes through. One other factor you need to consider is weather or not the oil is compatible with the cars bronze and white metal bearings.

Devcon, used to list a metal to rubber bonding primer which worked very well. When using Devcon, for goodness sake wear gloves ,if you get any on your skin, it's next to impossible to remove.

It's a very good option; but these jobs always take longer than you think and I don't want my car of the road for too long.

What is the correct type of steel to make King Pins with?

Or they have been lucky in owning low mileage cars. The worm wheel in my car could be moved 90 degrees at a time,the wheel was marked 1 to 4; Unfortunately successive owners had rotated it, each trying to find the area of least wear!

Joe.. is absolutely right in his summary. I have rebuilt an early Dodge steering box; I had to have the following done: 1)The steering shaft straitened .2)The bearing surfaces top and bottom welded and reground. 3) the worm wheel shaft reground.4)all new bushes, the the eccentric bush is complicated; the shafts must all "Screw" into the bushes, other wise you are wasting your time and money 4)New upper and lower thrust bearing .0nly, after all of the above work, was I ready to change the worm wheel and the other settings.

The lock rings, combined with split pins, look such a good idea, both the shackles are locked making a solid unite; with out the ring, the shackle on the bolt side is able to move independently, even with a small amount of wear.Was cost cutting the reason Dodge stopped fitting them?

There are two hex plates listed for the rear springs

Thank you for the picture.I had a look in my 1918 parts list it lists a single hexagon washer J 4855 as "Rear spring front bolt lock plate"; the shackles numbers are J 1775 and J 1774, much lower numbers than on my shackles

Do you have a picture of the washer, was used on early Dodge 4's ? How have other Dodge owners had there shackles restored?

The type fitted to my car are simular to the right hand side shackle in the picture .What was the third hole in the middle one for?

I am in the process of fitting new spring shackles pins and bushes to my Dodge Senior.Surprisingly, there seems to be a lot more wear between the old pin and shackle than the old pin and the old bush.I am hoping to get the holes welded and then re drilled. Are the shackles cast or forged and how tight should the pin nuts be, when re fitted?

I have a reprints of the service manual and an installation booklet; the Watson Inserts are described as "a patented composition and the only substance that works correctly"

In my box of spares, I have found a one part spring shackle, part number J 18286. Which Dodge does it belong to?

any ideas?

Try www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com ,they might be willing to cast a copy using your original as a pattern.

Up to about 1926, most Australian Dodges were supplied with magneto ignition.A few years ago I also owned a 1923 Dodge, distributed by the same Sydney garage as your car, it also was fitted with magneto ignition .

Hi, Would it be possible to post a picture of the wire wheels?

Hear hear JB.

I would be most grateful if any one can help me with the following. The Watson Stabilator should have four lubrication inserts which were changed every 20000 miles. What were they made of and what did they look like? There is a book that recommends "Lubricate with Whitmore's Compound NO. 0" What is this compound made of ?