Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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Joe,
After comparing my cylinder head fitting with a picture of an original, it seems like I do not have an original cylinder head fitting...I just ordered 2 from the Buick Farm (one for a spare)...maybe that will help my oil pressure...I cleaned up and installed a good used rocker shaft and pressure went up to about 9.5psi at hot idle...if this fitting brings it to 11 or 12 I'll be happy.
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I will 2nd turquoise...I just repainted mine when it was rebuilt...
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Hi Old Guy,
Same fitting in the head...They turned the shaft around to let the rockers ride on a new surface and cleaned up the rockers...apparently that's where the oil's bleeding past. Did you get my email about buying your extra rocker shaft?
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Looks like the rocker shaft is bleeding too much oil by it...they cleaned up the rocker shaft and they left too much clearance or something...more to come!
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I wasn't able to chack warming up, but hot (guessing, because my gauge was under the hood) I'd say about 27 lbs...which is low according to the manual.
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Hello,
I just had my 263 straight 8 rebuilt by my local machine shop…I’ve broken it in and have driven it about 75 miles or so. The hot idle oil pressure is low. Here’s what I’ve done. I drove it 30 miles today, went out and got a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked it right to the threaded area in the block where oil pressure is normally taken. I started it up and it had 17 lbs. of pressure at idle after sitting about 90 minutes. I drove another 20 miles and it had 7 lbs. At this point, winging the motor (not to redline or anything) in neutral brought the oil pressure to about 37 lbs. When I started it before the ride (not with a cold engine, mind you) it had 42 psi…My machinist, when I asked him, told me the mains, rods, and cam bearings all had between .0015 and .002 clearance. This doesn’t seem loose enough to have this low of oil pressure. The oil pump was not changed, as it was in excellent shape. I am running 30wt Brad Penn Break-in oil at this time. My machine shop will stand behind their work, but I’m wondering if there’s anything I’m missing…plus I’d rather not yank that big thing out of there again (although, of course, I will if it comes down to that)…any ideas? Thanks for any help…
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Email sent! Thank you!
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Looking for the rocker arm adjuster screw and ball for my 263 Dynaflow...a pushrod broke and chewed one up...My machinist is using a solid one and drilling it out, but recommended finding an original and throwing it in when I could. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Aaron
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Derek, this is the reason I try not to pick up the Auto Trader anymore...too many cars that I don't necessarily want and really don't need!!! This week--a '47 Nash 600 coupe with 59,000 miles and a '66 Corvair 110 4 speed coupe with 60,000 miles...
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Try ebay...also, try the V8buick.com classifieds. Nobody makes an aftermarket manifold for 300s...
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Hey Jim,
You own two of my favorite cars. At this time I'm actually deciding which one I want to buy next!
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Where is it leaking from...almost all of them leak somewhere...how much fluid is leaking?
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From what I understand, they don't stock 150 anymore, but they stock or can get 160. And I think 180 was "standard," but the 150 may have been standard for the alcohol based antifreeze, or something like that.
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I wish I lived in Texas right now!!!
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Looking at the info on here, I still have a problem. My air cleaner crosses the valve cover and angles toward the front of the car. The bracket to hold it to the valve cover is positioned where the "Fireball" sticker would go. Did '53s have different decal arrangements? Anybody have an underhood shot of a '53 Special?
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Hey all,
I'm not sure if this has been asked for this car, but where do all the decals go on the engine of my '53 Special. I bought the valve cover decals, including the Buick one and the Dynaflash one, the oil filter decal, the F-263 decal, and the hydraulic lifter decal. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks...
Aaron
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The 300 is a wedge-style motor, in that the valves aren't straight up and down.
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Anybody know of any straight 8 rocker arm rebuilders? The only one I've found is egge, and they are great, but it costs 437 dollars. I'm getting the whole engine rebuilt right now, so any additional cost is a factor!
Thanks for any ideas...
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Congratulations! Did you disassemble all the rocker arms? I just did and mine are very scored. Ouch! Have you dropped your oil pan and taken off your lifter cover? They're usually filled with sludge too, so it might be a good idea. How did you finally get those plugs out?
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Going from memory, I believe the rocker shaft is torqued to 35 ft./lbs.
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Well,
For anybody pulling an engine from a '53 Special, I found that pulling the hood by the hinges is definitely easiest. There are 3 bolts on each side, 2 need to be taken out from right under the dash after you have taken out the one from the engine compartment. The bolts from the hinge to the hood are shaped weirdly, so getting them out must have taken a special tool...lifting the engine out was easy...I used a 3 foot chain, 2 1-inch long Grade 5 bolts and a large washer in the center rocker arm shaft holes. I didn't even have to remove the pushrods to do it. No sweat. You will need a ratcheting, swiveling 5/8 inch wrench to remove two of the bellhousing bolts. Hope this can help someone in the future...thanks for all input!
Aaron
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While my engine's out, I bought 2 seals for my Dynaflow from Bob's, because my Dynaflow leaks from the flexplate inspection plate--the torque converter seal, and the front pump seal. The guy on the phone told me to do the front pump seal while I was in there, because it's often a leaker...anyone do this before? I know the torque converter one leaks because the bolts were loose when I bought the car, so I tightened it up by rotating the engine and it took care of 80% of the leak...but I don't have a 1953 manual, so any front pump seal help will be appreciated (I have a 1952 manual, but that's a different Dynaflow)...thanks!
Aaron
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I have 2 projects now, one I didn't plan on. I'm pulling the '53s motor out to get rebuilt tomorrow, thanks to the ominous knock. Blech. The '65 Mustang's total body and interior makeover is taking longer than expected thanks to the unexpected '53 problems. I like rlbleeker's problems I think...lots to choose from! But for me, 2's enough projects! I would LOVE a '63-'64 Riv to drive though...
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Unfortunately, my hood opens from the front...I think I am going to actually pull the hinges too, because it looks easier...I thought about pulling the head too, but then I wondered how I'd put the motor back in, since the head will be reinstalled when I get the engine back...so I think I may rig something up using the rocker shaft bolt bosses (like 4 of them)...we'll see. Everything is disassembled and ready to go now, the only things left to do are engine to bellhousing bolts and motor mount bolts and she's ready to lift...thanks for the reply!
Post rebuild oil pressure problem
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Thank you for the perspective, Joe.![smile.gif]()
One more question for you...I did not have a numerical gauge on the car before, and just went by the dashboard gauge for comparison between pre and post rebuild. Is it possible that the amount of crud and sludge in the oil passages of the engine was causing an erroneously high reading, and now that the engine is clean and it's reading about the same or even a little lower, it's really higher? Just a thought I was curious about...