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Posts posted by Aaron65
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It seems like the shudder must be something with the torque tube Buicks...mine did that when I first got it and it was only running on 7...sooo, make sure you're running on all 8 and that your idle speed isn't too high...that seems to make it worse too...good luck...
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For some reason lately, I've really liked the '79-'85 Rivs...most of them are cheap too...if I had more room and didn't have about 50 cars ahead of it on my dream car list, I'd buy one!
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No problem turning the engine with a socket, short extention, and 1/2 drive socket wrench. You may want to pull the plugs to make it easier but I don't always...just make sure the ignition is off, and just for safety, unplug the coil to distributor wire...From memory, I believe I use a 1 1/8 socket...as far as the thermostat gasket, I cut my own from gasket material, but doubling two up shouldn't be any problem...not sure about the stickers, as mine are loooong gone..good luck!
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Has the radiator ben boiled out? Thermostat installed in proper direction???
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Congrats! I'm glad yours has some pep...3/4 throttle on mine and it's still sloooooow with that old Dyna. I timed 0-60 at 20 seconds... ! Enjoy!
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Hey,
I'm looking for a rebuildable Carter WCD 882 for my '53 Special. I'm not that thrilled with the Stromberg that's on there and I'd like to try the other brand. Thanks!
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I second that...clogged radiator...also, check your timing and fuel mixture...
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As usual, you're the man!
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There might be scale or sediment blocking the pickup, but it only shows up when the fuel is low enough to cover the pickup...just a guess...maybe it floats to the top of the fuel level when you fill the tank...
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Either you have junk in the tank and it needs to be cleaned, or your gauge is off...Vapor lock could also be a possibility, although if it only happens with the gauge at a certain point, I'd lean toward the other two...
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I wish I would have known about them a few months ago!!!!
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Oh I agree...but my problem is that they told me that the 25 dollar credit would work, or at least led me to believe it would...and then it never happened and they never told me why...up until that point it was more of an inconvenience and believing the rebuilder rather than me about the shape of the shock. It took several phone calls to convince them that the problem was with the shock and not my car...
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Just a warning, but don't shop at CARS. I had my front lever shocks for my '53 rebuilt there. One was fine, the other's weld broke between the two arms as I was installing it on the car. They took it back and redid it. The second time, it came back with the arms bent so badly I couldn't install it. I called CARS and they tried to tell me my car was bent, even though the shock was noticeably different from the other one they rebuilt. The other one would fit fine on both sides. After some hemming and hawing on the phone, I decided to take the shock to my machine shop to have it fixed, which they did, for 50 dollars. To CARS' credit, they did offer to send it back, but by this point I had little faith in their rebuilder to get the job done correctly. My machine shop said they had to break the weld, bend the arms and reweld it. I explained to CARS that I was doing this, and asked ahead of time for a 25 dollar credit on my credit card to cover the repair. They said they would get the money from the rebuilder. Time passes...no credit. I finally called and they said the rebuilder refused to credit them. No call to me at all. The operator asked the owner about a refund and the owner refused because I had gone through my own channel (which I understand even though I had discussed it with the operator beforehand). So, I will take my business for my two Buicks elsewhere, because a measly 25 bucks was too much to offer a guy who had his immobile car blocking half his garage for over a month. Smart move. Just a heads up...take it how you will. See the attachment for a shock comparison...the bad one's on the right.
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A couple of things...I have heard that the back two cylinders can get clogged with scum...so maybe knock in a freeze plug and see if you can scoop any junk out of the back of the engine...then...check the temp with a good known gauge or infrared sensor to make sure your gauge is accurate. I'd have to think that if it's pegging hot it's going to boil over. After all that's done (and maybe 1st), check your timing, vacuum advance, and fuel mixture. Also make sure your spark plugs are in the correct heat range. Good luck!
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As far as I know...it's used or nothing...sorry! Panels for these cars are, for the most part, not reproduced...only things that interchange with Chevelles and GTOs are remade, like rear window sections and maybe rocker panels....floors would most likely fit too...
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I'll chime in because I'll never own a really nice car--I treat the too much like common drivers. I like the look of an overrestored car, but I'm just as excited to see a faded original. Personally, I'd rather see factory restored vehicles because they don't make mine look as bad!
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Straight eight...I know! That's what's weird about it. If I hold it to the floor, it doesn't start nearly as well hot as the procedure I described...but that's just my car...every one has a personality!
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Hey Dave...did you try switching to a Rochester? Mine's a Stromberg too...maybe they are just not good with modern gas. My other old cars don't have nearly the problem this one does. When it's hotter than 80 or so, it would drip out the throttle shafts when shut off...not too much, but enough. We'll have to see with my new spacer...
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks???Any junk clooging a jet or passage? Missing check ball or needle in the accelerator pump? Just a few ideas...
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Hey NTX, I have a bunch of those gaskets sitting around, and the factory insulator gaskets were pretty thin (if they were indeed factory style). They were thicker than a usual base gasket though. Paul, I had an '87 T-Bird back in college that my Dad gave me to use. I still kind of like those cars when I see one (which is getting rarer and rarer--they seem to have all rusted away). It had the 302 and was a fun car...kind of miss it!
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Hey all,
I've had a heat soak problem with my '53 Special ever since I bought it. I've tried everything...lowering the float, closing the heat riser, rejetting, messing with timing...always a soggy hot start with black smoke. I think (knock on wood) I may have helped it. I made a carb spacer out of a 1/4 inch cutting board I bought at Walmart. I holesawed it out, sanded some of the grain out of it and slapped it on with 2 gaskets. In addition to a new hot starting technique of just touching the throttle once, letting go, and then just touching it again...it seemed to make a big difference. Hope this helps someone out there, even if my carb spacer is a little backwoods!
Aaron
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Uncle Biggy, Gas Eaters sums it up pretty well! NTX...I agree about the old Dynaflow...10 around town if I'm lucky, 15-20 on the open road...then again, 130 horsepower pushing 4000 pounds is going to equal some big throttle openings! Glad it's not just mine!
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To me it kind of sounds engine related..is the check engine light coming on? Maybe it's a fuel delivery problem...The only transmission related thing that popped into my head was the torque converter clutch not disengaging, but that wouldn't really cause the symptoms you describe...
NEED HELP !!
in Buick - General
Posted
It's not a Special...they went to the smaller body in '51...definitely a Super, like Dave said...