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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Hello,

    I just got a new thermostatic spring and anti-rattle spring for the exhaust manifold heat valve on my '53 Special. I'm missing the anti-rattle spring bracket that bolts to the exhaust flange...anybody have one laying around that they can measure for me? I can easily fabricate one, I'd just like to know the size of it. Thanks!

    Aaron

  2. I'm 30, but my memories are of my no exhaust '65 Mustang my Mom gave me when I was 11 (total rust bucket then--still have it, and I've put 72,000 miles on it since then). I was changing oil and tires on it when I was 12. I learned rudimentary metal fabrication when I was 14...I also listened to the AM oldies station at that age. Now I have 4 old cars and a 1920s house and bicycles from the 1960s. I guess I'm a little out of place in my time, like most of us here...

  3. If I'm not mistaken, wouldn't this be a Dynaflow car? In that case, you remove the inspection cover for the flywheel. There are 3 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter. If you remove the little plate behind the inspection cover that has 4 bolts, you can have access to the back of the bolt so you can remove the flywheel to torque converter nuts. To disconnect the bellhousing from the engine, there should be 6 bolts (there were on my '53, but it's a 263). The two toward the top were hard to get; I used a ratcheting and swiveling box end wrench. Good luck...these are all for a '53 263...if there are differences with a '49 320, somebody please correct me.

  4. Thank you for the perspective, Joe. smile.gif One more question for you...I did not have a numerical gauge on the car before, and just went by the dashboard gauge for comparison between pre and post rebuild. Is it possible that the amount of crud and sludge in the oil passages of the engine was causing an erroneously high reading, and now that the engine is clean and it's reading about the same or even a little lower, it's really higher? Just a thought I was curious about...

  5. Joe,

    After comparing my cylinder head fitting with a picture of an original, it seems like I do not have an original cylinder head fitting...I just ordered 2 from the Buick Farm (one for a spare)...maybe that will help my oil pressure...I cleaned up and installed a good used rocker shaft and pressure went up to about 9.5psi at hot idle...if this fitting brings it to 11 or 12 I'll be happy.

  6. Hello,

    I just had my 263 straight 8 rebuilt by my local machine shop…I’ve broken it in and have driven it about 75 miles or so. The hot idle oil pressure is low. Here’s what I’ve done. I drove it 30 miles today, went out and got a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked it right to the threaded area in the block where oil pressure is normally taken. I started it up and it had 17 lbs. of pressure at idle after sitting about 90 minutes. I drove another 20 miles and it had 7 lbs. At this point, winging the motor (not to redline or anything) in neutral brought the oil pressure to about 37 lbs. When I started it before the ride (not with a cold engine, mind you) it had 42 psi…My machinist, when I asked him, told me the mains, rods, and cam bearings all had between .0015 and .002 clearance. This doesn’t seem loose enough to have this low of oil pressure. The oil pump was not changed, as it was in excellent shape. I am running 30wt Brad Penn Break-in oil at this time. My machine shop will stand behind their work, but I’m wondering if there’s anything I’m missing…plus I’d rather not yank that big thing out of there again (although, of course, I will if it comes down to that)…any ideas? Thanks for any help…

  7. Derek, this is the reason I try not to pick up the Auto Trader anymore...too many cars that I don't necessarily want and really don't need!!! This week--a '47 Nash 600 coupe with 59,000 miles and a '66 Corvair 110 4 speed coupe with 60,000 miles...

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