Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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11 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:
Battery ordered. Need to order 00 battery cables too but will check tractor supply today. Engine is very clean. Will change oil and check all ignition parts while waiting on my battery (supposed to be here by 3 today). And straight 8 specific watch outs?
Not really...it should have hydraulic lifters, which are fed from the rocker shaft down. Unfortunately, the rocker shaft is probably plugged up with sludge (along with the rocker arm passages). So don't be surprised if there's a little valve noise; I hope you luck out! That big manifold might be warped, so an exhaust leak is not out of the question.
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8 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:
Crooked like that? Were they all drunk?
Regardless of their predilection to drink while tagging, I tell you the truth. I will say this - at least mine isn't upside down.
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Your VIN tag looks exactly like my Atlanta-built '53 Special's (cars with numbers that start with 6 were built in Atlanta), so I imagine that your tag is in the correct spot for that plant.
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https://www.hometownbuick.com/1953-buick/1953-buick-body-tag-decode/
It looks like your car should be gray with a green interior, and it was built in Flint.
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Yes, Buicks of this era had the main heater core under the seat. There's also a defroster core in the "heater" box under the dash; when you add in the water-cooler on the Dynaflow, you're looking at about 2 million feet of heater hose.
I don't have my underseat heater hooked up because I don't drive my car when it's below freezing, and the defroster takes the chill off on a cool morning.
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Wow, what a car, especially for the price. That shouldn't be here for long.
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No need for special oil (in my opinion). You may want to prime the oiling system by removing the distributor and using a drill (I just chuck up a large flat screwdriver without a handle or something similar). Regular old 80W90 GL5 gear oil is fine for the differential.
Dynaflow 263s had hydraulic lifters that are actually fed from the rocker shaft down, so they're set at zero lash. I adjust them cold with the engine not running. With the cam on the base circle, set the valve to zero lash (the rocker arm tip will just touch the valve at that point - you can see it easily on this engine), and then turn the screw another two turns down.
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1 hour ago, Just_Some_Young_Kid said:
I also wanted to ask about fuel additives. Would I have to use lead substitute at every gas stop or occasionally? And oil, I know probably conventional petroleum oil, is there any certain type for older engines? I saw somewhere that motorcycle oil is good for them, which would be good since I work at a motorcycle shop.
I wouldn't bother with fuel additives. I use Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 in all my old cars with no extra additives (other than an occasional half bottle of Rislone to help quiet down a ticking lifter). You probably should count on replacing all three brake hoses, all four wheel cylinders, and perhaps the master cylinder. You may be able to get away with honing the cylinders and installing rebuild kits, but I wouldn't count on it. There's no need to change to a 12V system in my opinion. Make sure to use heavy gauge battery cables and you should be fine unless you're driving in 0 degree weather. You may want to consider cleaning and repacking front AND rear wheel bearings and replacing those seals at some point early on. Then you should be in pretty good shape to see what pops up next!
Things will pop up on any car that's been sitting a long time, so be ready for anything, at least for awhile.
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/52_shop/index.php
Here's the service manual for you to download; you want the '52 manual because the '53 is just a supplement for upgrades (mostly V8 stuff).
P.S. I can tell that the valves are adjusted wrong on that engine. Some are turned way farther down than the others. Chances are that some of the lifters are no longer pumping up. Driving the car for awhile might help, but you may want to be prepared to change them or clean them. They are very expensive, so you'd want to try cleaning first if it comes to that. At the very least, you'll have to do a valve adjustment, which is easy. I can explain it to you when the time comes if you want.
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Wow...that's a whole 'nother level.
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You can ABSOLUTELY have an old car in your budget. Keep an eye out here on the forum; there's a spot where people post old cars they find for sale online and in person.
https://forums.aaca.org/forum/161-not-mine-automobiles-for-sale/
The key is realistic expectations. You'll probably get decent paint but not show car paint. You may end up with a four-door, which isn't a bad thing for a lot of people. If you keep an open mind, you can certainly find something interesting and usable for your price range or even less. People post them here all the time. All of my stuff is in driver condition, some better than others, and I've had a GREAT time in this hobby.
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8 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
The 53 Special uses a straight 8 while the other two Buicks used the new V8 that year. I do not know if the V8 and Straight 8 used the same Dynaflow transmission. But the Special definitely uses a version of the earlier Dynaflow which unfortunately earned its reputation as a sluggish combination. At least you have the largest straight 8 in the history of the marquee there. But getting to the speed of todays traffic will be astonishingly slow, and may sour you on the vehicle.
Hey John,
Both the V8 and the 263 were upgraded to the Twin-Turbine Dynaflow in '53; I believe the only difference is in the number of stator vanes (and the bellhousing?). Zero-sixty does take about 15 seconds, maybe even a little longer.
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I have a '53 Special, and the best way to describe the car is that it will easily go 75, but it doesn't really LIKE going 75. I'm accustomed to driving old cars, and I've had my Special since I was 28 (16 years now, yikes!). Every car has a natural cruising speed, and the '53 is happiest going 60-65 on the freeway, so that's how fast I drive. It's probably my favorite car, but it's not the one I'd choose as a daily driver for high speed use. One other thing...the gas mileage is pretty bad, if that matters. I don't keep track very closely, but it's in the 10-14 MPG range. Don't think I'm trying to tell you that these are bad cars - they're amazing - I love driving mine! Times have changed since 1953 though, and if you're not used to driving old cars regularly, I don't want you to be disappointed in your purchase.
Additionally, are you in a salty area? A few winters will destroy an old car, just like they did when the cars were new. If you're in a salt-free area and you want an old car as a daily driver for freeway use, you may want to consider something a little newer, even a few years. Horsepower rating jumped rapidly in the 1950s, and even a '55 Buick would be better suited to the freeway.-
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That's a great looking '62! I actually bought my '65 Corvair Monza from a Ford dealer. It had gotten traded in on something around Thanksgiving back in 2007, and I really thought I got a good deal on it. I did not. At the time, I knew Corvairs weren't worth much, but I didn't realize how much nicer a car I could have bought for only a few thousand more. Oh well...I still have it. It's fun, but I'll always be annoyed at how much I've spent on it.
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Ouch! You might be better off getting another core - that stuff is difficult to completely remove.
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Yep, in all likelihood, Nader gave the car an extra few years! The Mustang's huge success is what really did in the Corvair.
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Thanks for the heads up...I pre ordered mine, as well.
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21 minutes ago, C Carl said:
What year did Corvair ditch the swing axle and go to a proper independent rear suspension ? - CC
1965-1969 models had the updated suspension.
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Welcome to the forum, but this is an 18-year-old post.
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You air cleaner looks exactly like my '65 Skylark's (which has a 300). You should have a PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover, and it will be connected by a hose to a port on the back of the carburetor. The oil cap should be a breather with mesh material inside. It looks like you have an open crankcase ventilation system to me, but obviously your picture doesn't show some of the applicable parts.
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My wife and I wandered through there when we were vacationing around the Finger Lakes. Nice place, worth the visit...
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Beautiful car! Dynaflows are well-known for being leaky. I've been finding it very hard over the last 15 years to tear mine apart for a few drips on the driveway whenever I park it. Every year, I say "This winter, it's coming out!" Every year when winter arrives I say "Eh."
Maybe one of these days.
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You've gone a long way toward making that '53 look like a complete car again...I'd have a hard time parting it out, too.
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48 minutes ago, TerryB said:
Mice hotel on wheels.
That's also true, and I can't imagine interior parts are easy to find.
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The '57 Imperial's dashboard is one of my favorites - I love those huge gauge pods. Obviously, this one will never be a moneymaker, but they never are, in my experience (I also never sell anything). Realistic expectations are the order of the day on this one...get it running if you can, clean it up, and have a fun "beater."
Sadly, someone will probably buy it for the 392 and sell it as a parts car.
53 special riv
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Oops! You probably will luck out - it's a standard transmission car, so it should have solid lifters. If no valves are sticking, you should be in decent shape.