Jump to content

Aaron65

Members
  • Content Count

    1,079
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Does anybody have a '53 parts book lying around (or personal experience)?

    I took apart my '53 Special's speedometer to lube it, and I noticed that someone along the line had held the glass in place with what seemed like some kind of seam sealer. I cleaned that all off and reassembled everything, and the glass is just floating around in the housing loosely.

    I have the polished outside ring, then the glass, then the glass retainer, then the dial, and that all clips to the speedometer. Just wondering what I'm missing here! I could probably use strip caulk or something, but that would be just as goopy as the old stuff.

  2. I've found that with today's gas, the factory timing setting is often way too retarded for a car to run well. Try running it at 5 or even 7 degrees temporarily. When it's set, plug in your vacuum advance canister. Your timing should immediately increase to anywhere from 15 to 20 or so degrees BTDC. If it doesn't, your canister is leaking and you need a new one (probably $10). Pull the mixture screws out of the carb (keep them in order, left to right) and spray some carb cleaner through the passages. Then, reinstall the mixture screws and LIGHTLY seat them (until they JUST stop--you'll ruin the carb if you crank them down). Turn them back out two turns and see how it runs. As it warms up, you can tweak those screws a quarter turn at a time for best idle.

    Before you do any of this, you'll probably want to check the dwell. It should be at 30* and steady. Did you make sure the mechanical advance on top of the distributor (under the rotor) is free? If not, you'll have all kinds of trouble. Good luck...

  3. Dan, I have a few cars that are eventually going to need steering gears redone, and your prices on Rock Auto seem really reasonable. It's nice that there's a "face" for a company when you send one of your car parts out. Is the turnaround pretty quick?

  4. I ordered a ball and trunnion boot from them for my Dart...it got here quickly and it was a pretty hard to find part. I'd say they're OK. The guy I talked to on the phone said they might be coming out with an A-Body catalog, which would be nice, because parts for early Darts are ridiculous to find.

  5. Totally agree.

    Schools should be getting better at what they do, not worse.

    Bill

    I'm a high school teacher, and this is far too complex a societal problem to generalize here, but I do want to give credit where credit is due...I know that in Michigan, our state government (and feds) largely dictate the types of classes students must take to graduate, and those classes no longer include anything hands-on. I don't agree with that, and schools certainly aren't blameless, but their hands are tied more often than you'd like.

  6. Touchy situation for sure...

    You may want to mention that because it's disassembled, it's worth less. Maybe ask her what she wants for it and see what she says?

    I'm always amazed at how inexpensive these beautiful 40s and 50s Buicks are (not parts!). Even in nice #3 driver shape, that car probably wouldn't be worth more than $10,000 or so, and you might sit on it a while at that. I think you're right on the money...maybe $2500 if you want to be a nice guy. Still, I don't think you'll come out ahead if you flip it. If the chrome is reasonable and you can get away without rechroming stuff, maybe.

  7. A friend stopped by tonight and told me his car with an AFB won't start hot and he has vapor lock. I'll probably get it out here and fix it for him.

    I WILL use test equipment on the car when I recreate the problem. The first check is compression, like the training video says and like I learned in 1959. You just don't waltz up to an engine and start monkeying around without and compression check and an ignition system inspection. When I get a no start condition I will check the secondary voltage to see if the cylinders are starved for fuel or rich.

    Although this is a Mopar video, they do a good job overall. Pay attention to the antiperculation comments.

    Bernie

    I've got a cold and I couldn't sleep this morning...Watching "Tech" the carburetor guy didn't make me feel any better, but it did make me think I took too much Sudafed! :)

  8. Is the high-idle vibration when the car is stationary? If so, it couldn't be anything behind the torque converter in all probability.

    Maybe a dumb question, but is it running on all 8? Sometimes it's not all that obvious, since in reality, each cylinder in a straight 8 is only contributing maybe 15 horsepower total.

  9. Those pictures are tough to look at...

    Like my wife told me when I mentioned your work, you just can't save them all, even though you want to! It's guys like us who keep this stuff from completely disappearing, and we should all give ourselves a pat on the back for what we can do and have done. Good job, again, Pete. :)

×
×
  • Create New...