lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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Yes Gary is still in business. I received a delivery about 8 weeks ago. He is very slow to respond, if at all, because he gets flooded with emails.
I found the best way is to find what you want in the catalog and send in his form with the money. He refunds any over payment for shipping.
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In every case where I have assisted with vaporlock the fuel lines have been incorrectly routed. The most common problem is restorers wanting to install loops or S bends in the fuel line for stress relief or to make the fuel look better. The fuel line needs to be routed so that the vapor bubble can flow and not be trapped in the line.
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If there is a spark at the coil then I would have thought the earth to be ok. It appears more likely the fault lies either in the cap or the plug leads. It is very common for the new distributor components to not match up, so the rotor may not be suitable for the cap. Is there a spark out of the cap? If yes the plugs or leads are faulty.
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Many moons ago I was in the same situation. It's amazing how many people told what was best.
My advice:- Troll through the photos on the web and pick out the body shape and the cars that you like.
Next work out what talents you have to work with. Generally I look for a straight rust free body because any mechanical issues I can deal with myself. But if you are handy with a welder maybe the opposite is better.
Next is the money pit. Have a good look at what you decide to buy and work out in your mind what you can look past. Does that tear in the seat have to be fixed or can I live it?
I helped a local lad buy a car about three years ago. He can't afford to fix it because he is out of a job. Essentially he now drives what many would call a rat rod. He loves it.
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I’m tired of reading on internet blogs and forums about how “ineffective” a by-pass filter system is on our old cars. I’ve even seen posts and comments from supposed knowledgeable mechanics that advise against adding back the by-pass circuit when doing rebuilds of engines that have them.<o:p></o>
I’ve got one of these systems on my 1950 Dodge Coronet, and all this “ineffective filter” commentary was counter-intuitive. Why did manufacturers add them? Cadillac, known for its superior engineering, used a by-pass filter on its new 1949 OV design, and did not change to full-flow filtration until 1962. Nevertheless, I wondered, “Is the filter on my car just an “appendage” that was added for marketing purposes, or does it really help to keep my oil cleaner?” After doing some research, I’ve come to the conclusion that not only is the by-pass system NOT ineffective, it actually is pretty effective, even if not as “good” as the full-flow systems that are standard issue today. Here is some good information on this Forum, from people who appear to be knowledgeable:<o:p></o>
An engineering friend came up with what I think is a good, non-technical common sense way to explain the effectiveness of by-pass filtering. He says to think of swimming pool filtration. That is essentially a by-pass situation, where a small portion of the pool water is drawn into the filter and then returned to the main (dirty) body of water. I’ve observed many times absolutely filthy black pool water, after having sat all winter, become crystal-clear and sparkling after 2 or3 days of by-pass filtering. I’d say that’s pretty effective filtration.<o:p></o>
So, IMHO, if your oil supply starts out clean and you have a by-pass filter, you will come out OK in the clean engine dept. The only time a by-pass filter may not be effective is if the oil becomes suddenly contaminated, such as if you were driving in a severe dust storm with an open-crankcase ventilation system. A full flow would get 99% of the immediate contamination on a single pass whereas a by-pass might take 30-45 minutes to remove it. A lot of damage could result in that time. But, under normal circumstances where we drive on paved roads, the chance of the immediate contamination is remote. <o:p></o>
I’ll stick with my by-pass filter, and I will continue to advise people who have no filters on their classic cars to add the by-pass circuit. Very easy to do, as opposed to trying to plumb a full-flow into a block not originally designed for it.<o:p></o>
By Pass filters are effective but full flow filters are more effective. The change over to full flow oil filters I believe coincided with advances in oil technology and the addition of detergents and modifiers. I've modified my 1929 Chrysler to a full flow oil filter and I use Castrol GTX oil. Now I know some of you have just rolled over in your grave, but the car has been on the road (the second time)for thirty years with no measurable wear in the engine.
Back in the late 1970s during my uni days I did some testing on the bypass filter and found that after 60 minutes of running time less than 50% of the oil had passed through the filter. That's why I changed over. Plus zero detergent oils were getting harder to obtain and more expensive. But that aside an engine doing 2000rpm goes through 60 000 revolutions in 30 minutes and that's a lot of chances for that little piece of contaminant to do some damage or get caught in the wrong place.
The other interesting point that gets brought up is "How do you know if oil is actually going through the by pass filter?"
The answer " You don't"
You could potentially drive your car for years with a blocked filter and have absolutely no idea.
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The 1929 Merchants Express pickup was the first of the Dodge half ton trucks.
109 inch wheelbase with a 60 inch tray.
There a story at:
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can i/should i run aviation fuel in my 26 chrysler? it starts only with starter fueled then doesn't run real well thereafter. someone suggested that modern auto fuel doesn't burn as well as fuel back in the 20's, thus aviation fuel suggestion.
Oil companies have gone to a lot of trouble to make modern fuels burn better. So whoever mentioned that to you doesn't know what they are talking about. Is there any advantage in running avgas in a 26 Chrysler? You may get better starting and some avgas has a higher calorific value (as well as higher octane) but I doubt the engine would be able take advantage of that. Plus it will stand longer before deteriorating.
The disadvantage? It costs double the amount of regular pump gas.
My father ran avgas for many years in his Morris Major, because he worked in a maintenance facility and fuel drained from an aircraft should not be returned to an aircraft. So why not use it in the Morris? The only advantage was it was free.
Your problem seems to be more related to engine turning rather than fuel type.
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I'd have to agree. Looks like a very good job to me. Well done.
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I use water and kerosine. 1/2 cup kero in a 2 gallon bucket.
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The oil quandary??
I have seen on numerous occasions people stating that you must use 600 weight oil and anybody who tells you different doesn't know what they are talking about. I'm one of those people who doesn't know what he is talking about! (and I have been told)
I use 140 weight oil in my gearbox (1929 Chrysler) and it changes perfectly. My father’s DA uses 120 weight oil and my brothers DA also uses 140 weight oil. No noise, no grinding whatsoever. Years ago I found a British Army maintenance manual for a series 1 landrover with a crash gearbox. The British Army did not use the same oil in every vehicle, but had four grades to select from. In great detail it explained how to select the oil and the only way is by trial and error.
The starting point is to understand that the clutch plate (and obviously the input shaft of the gearbox) must continue to spin when disengaged from the engine. For vehicles with a crash gearbox the clutch must continue to spin for between 4 and 7 seconds. From memory 5 seconds was the optimum. If the gearbox spins for longer it makes it more difficult to select first gear when stationary. If the gearbox spins less it makes it more difficult to change between gears when on the move. Optimum time to change gears according to the British Army is 3 seconds (double de clutch operation).
If you are using 600 weight oil the oil sticks to the gears and makes them heavier and thus makes the gears spin longer. So a gearbox with 600 weight oil will stop spinning before a gearbox with 700 weight oil. Dodge and Chrysler specified these weight oils way back in 1929. These oils are heavy and sap power from the engine.
Today we have some very good gearbox oils that are a damn sight lighter, more readily available and cheaper. The disadvantage is that the modern oil will leak because it is designed to flow. And because it is lighter it also works in the opposite way to the heavier oils because a thin film of the oil is on the gears, with most of the oil in the pan. A gearbox with 140 weight oil stops spinning before a gearbox with 120 weight oil.
Laurie
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I'll speak from my experiences with my 29s. From what I have read here I think you will need to pull it apart. The most common problem is adjustment and the next is a simple burr on the clutch plate or pressure plate. Even though you can turn the clutch plates with your hand doesn't necessarily mean that there still isn't a some small burr keeping contact between the plates. Heavier oil also may be making the problem worse not better.
I had a similar problem and located it by running a steel rule over the surface. I tied the clutch pedal to the floor and rotated the pressure plate by hand with the rule between the surfaces. I found a very small piece of the lining had bent over and was in contact with both surfaces. Easily moved by hand but enough to remain gripped with the pedal depressed.
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Peddle free travel feels right but even when you are stopped it grinds into first gear.
If it is grinding when you select first gear then there is a problem. The clutch/pressure plate is not correctly set up.
When you have the floor boards out, remove the cover plate on the bell housing and watch the operation of the clutch/pressure plate. With the engine running, the clutch plate should come to a complete stop when the clutch pedal is depressed.
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I doubt that any right hand drive cars would come out of Detroit. They would be too busy keeping up supply for the US market. IMO the fact that the steering wheel is on that side means that it is Canadian built.
When manufactured, the car would have had a data plate on it somewhere, but there is no guarantee that the plate is still there.
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Stop looking for the FEDCO plate. From the photos the car doesn't have one. The FEDCO plate should be on the far left of the dash. The photo attached is for a Chrysler 70 I think but the 60 will look the same. If there ever was one there will be an indentation in the dash and two holes where the rivets attached.
To me the car is an early 1926 Chrysler 60. The FEDCO system came sometime in 1926 but it wasn't until late 1926 that Canadian built cars started installing the plates. Some export models did not recieve the plates until 1927. From my understanding FEDCO was a private company which charged Chrysler for each plate installed. So if the country of destination did not require them, then they weren't installed. There may also be a body plate found between the passenger side door and the front seat nailed to the floor.
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CHRYSLER INTERIOR RUBBER- DODGE CITY TRUCK PARTS
Is this what you are chasing?
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The Ford Motor Company paid engineers to design the suspension system to be the best it could be at the most economical price available.
Actually, that's not quite correct. In the range of mass produced cheap cars the suspension is a compromise between the mighty dollar, comfort and performance. Having worked at General Motors for a short time in the 70's I can give you an ironclad guarantee of that. Lowering the centre of gravity of any car will give you some benefits in handling. But you will sacrifice something, in your case probably comfort. I haven't worked on a 55 Ford so realistically, you will have to lower the car to see what is gained and what is lost.
Will the car look better?:- Well that's a personal thing that only you can decide for yourself.
Will it make the car ride better?:- Not in my opinion. Probably worse.
Will it make it handle better?:- Probably yes.
Will it affect the suspension?:- Well that depends on how you do the lowering so I can't answer that. But do not change anything unless you can change it back if you aren't happy.
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The hole on the underside is to drain the fuel out when you flood the engine. It normally does have a screw in it but it doesn't affect the operation if the screw is missing.
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Coarse gravel and solvent worked for me. I tied my tank to a cement mixer and let it run for a few hours, then repositioned the tank and ran it again.
It took a week to get it nice and clean.
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It may even be the spark plugs. I had a similar problem with my Chrysler using NOS plugs. Mine would idle for 10 minutes without missing a beat. But 10 minutes on the open road and it would backfire like crazy.
After numerous attempts changing things I discovered the new plugs were stuffed.
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A 12volt battery is a good idea to power your accessories. I did the same thing mounting a small motor bike battery under the seat. Just need to make sure it is easy to access for the charger.
Once you have used the car numerous times you will get a feel for how much you drain the battery.
The alternator is overkill. Especially 85 amps.
I found that the battery would last a full weekend of driving and I was generally close to home before the cd stopped playing.
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The symbol on the running board belongs to a British kit cat manufacturer inspired by Jaguar. Can't remember their name.
From memory it used a Ford donor car from the late 1970's.
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Powder coating gives fantastic results. The finish is a lot harder than paint. But it is also more brittle.
I find I have to be extra careful when changing tyres. The powder coating chips more easily than paint does.
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I think 18 inch wire wheels with seven studs only appeared on two models, so that will make it a 1928/29 Chrysler 75 or 1929/30 Chrysler 77.
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This thread provides additional info for you:
1928 Chrysler 72
in Chrysler Products - General
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Without shocks, the ride is fine as long as you stay under 15mph. Over that the ride becomes a little hairy. Especially a sedan, your back seat passengers will get seasick.
I've got a 1929 75 that I have modified with telescopic shocks. Now that's a fine ride! but not original.