lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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I get the same response Patrick.
No reply to an email. And a woman answered the phone with a very rude attitude.
I'd have to assume the add is a scam.
Sorry about that.
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72 and 75 front axle is the same size, and diff is the same size. Easiest way is to swap complete 75 components into your 72. I believe the 77 is slightly different.
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Thanks Keiser31, My book has 66 engine numbers starting with CC so I'll do a pencil edit for later use.
Not much of the original car left. Still has its body tag so it wore a Holden body when built.
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An engine number, starting with C and with only 5 numerals doesn't appear in my id book.
Any ideas?
The car appears to be Desoto or Plymouth, 1929 with 6 cylinder engine.
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The idea behind many thin layers is to ensure the wings line up when the cap is tightened. It is common to see 6 layers.
In the cars I have seen there is generally one thick seal and numerous thin layers underneath.
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Forget the resistor!
It is a very poor solution.
Jump on to eBay and search for a "12 volt to 6 volt step down converter 60W".
You can get them out of China or Hong Kong for about $8.
That will give you 10 amps at 6 volts which is ample for your horn and fuel gauge.
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C38/C39 Wiring Diagram,
Does this help?
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On 10/11/2016 at 5:59 AM, Narve N said:
Is Ray Jones still active by the way?
I don't believe Ray Jones has been active for about 8 years.
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Senior Six would have an engine number starting with S. Chrysler 65 engine numbers start with P.
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On 10/3/2016 at 5:28 AM, Tinindian said:
I havn't seen all the makes of cars but I cannot visualize how a "T" handle could/would be used on a windshield riser. You would have to stop the car in order to adjust the window. With a short handle it is no problem to reach up while you are driving and raise or lower the windshield as needed.
I've been using mine for thirty years. Operation with a T handle is no different to the short handle. You just reach up and turn it.
Most of the Chrysler 75s that came to Australia had Fisher bodies, with the exception of one or two Locke bodied cars.
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On 9/29/2016 at 2:45 AM, keiser31 said:
Looks like the one here....NOT a T-handle....
The Chrysler 75 has a T handle above the windscreen, NOT a regular handle. The regular handle is too long to rotate.
The T handle sold by Vintageclassicreproductions is correct.
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On 8/21/2016 at 1:32 PM, DavidAU said:
Does anyone know what this grade of gear oil would be for a 1920's gearbox or can suggest what would be a suitable replacement? I have tried Google and cannot find anything.
The lubricant for the gearbox should be black gear oil and soft grease mixed or Ambroleum. It is necessary to examine the gearbox about every 1,000 miles to ascertain if the lubricant is to the correct level which should just cover the layshaft gears.
More information required. The answer differs between 1920 and 1929 and between Ford and Dodge.
I use modern 140W oil in my gearbox. It never crunches between gears, cold or hot, and I have no difficulty changes gears.
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On 9/15/2016 at 7:22 PM, C Carl said:
Yes , Matt , 90 is 90 , noise , of course can be worn internals. Try going to a multi grade synthetic gear lube like 85-90/140. Always heed well Dr. Spinneyhills advice. He is a well trained and thorough researcher. Old gear jammers trick on synchronized transmissions : when selecting unsynchronized first or reverse , first place gearshift in a synchronized gear , and then quickly drop into first or reverse. Try it. For frustrated crashbox owners without a clutch brake , one technique in certain situations is to select reverse before a quick change to first. Still will grind into reverse , but you are using the relatively lesser used reverse gear faces sacrificially. There is more , but it is late , and I have to drive home and sleep. I am driving a 7 speed automatic this time. - Good night , Carl
Actually, that's not quite correct. The method used to measure the viscosity of oils has changed twice in the past century. And there is no comparison chart available between the standards. A 90W from 1940 may or may not be the same as a 90W oil from 2016. We do know that the heavy steam oils 300W and above changed quite dramatically.
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If it runs smooth to start with then it won't be plug wire sequence. I had a similar problem. Car ran very well until it reached operating temperature. Turned out to be the spark plugs. From your description I'd be looking at the coil or the plugs.
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The '75' info is very confusing, because a lot of the model designation is incorrect. Many of the advertisements showed Crown sedans although they were marked as Royals. Even in the pdf above, the Crown Sedan isn't mentioned. Your sedan is a Crown Sedan. The Town sedan has no glass behind the rear door. The Crown Sedan has the small window and the Royal Sedan has the larger window. The Crown Sedan seems to be the most common today, as in more have survived. Town and Royal Sedans are very rare. I have only ever seen one of each. Both were owned by a collector in Boise Idaho in 1984.I can't find my photos of the 75 Royal but this photo of a 65 Royal Sedan will give you an idea of the size of the rear window. The maroon car is my 75 Crown sedan. The doors of the Town and Crown sedans are the same size. Both front and rear doors are smaller on the Royal Sedan.
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On 7/15/2016 at 0:50 PM, mcgoo said:
For anyone who is interested this has come up on Gumtree in Australia.
Looks like a nice collection
Looks like all the parts you are missing are in this lot. I'd love to bring that 77 home.
I've been told he has the remains of three 77's so if it is all included for $15k it's a very good buy.
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The top pulley is in two parts. Undo the set screw and rotate the front part of the pulley anticlockwise.
Only the front half of the pulley will screw off, then the belt slides off the front.
The belt is tensioned by closing the 'V' of the pulley.
The radiator does not need to be removed. There is plenty of room for the belt to be removed in situ.
Then remove the complete water pump with the remainder of the pulley.
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The first question is: Does the gearbox grind when stationary and selecting first gear?
After starting the car, depress the clutch pedal and wait a few seconds, then select first gear. You should hear no grinding of gears.
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Ford 18 inch wire wheels had 32 spokes, 5 stud pattern, welded spokes.
Kelsey Hayes wheels generally had 40 spokes with welded spokes. I think used on Gm cars.
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Continental and Lycoming produce a horizontally opposed 8 cylinder engine, that are used in many aircraft. Porsche manufactures an automotive 8 cylinder. I don't believe Chrysler ever manufactured one.
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1955 Dodge thru to 1959 Dodge.
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As Phillip said, use white vinegar. (make sure it is not imitation vinegar) Spray it on and leave it for a few hours.
If the whole interior is covered then it will take many treatments. With your first two treatments do not be tempted to scrub or wash the upholstery. Just spray and walk away.
On the third treatment start to spray and wash. Remove the seats if you can. Make sure you have a very good mask on because if you get the mold spores up your nose you may get quite sick.
Do not use bleach! On porous surfaces bleach actually feeds the mold spores and does not kill them. Plus it will rip the colour out.
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I wont say it is the correct colour code. But a close match is Dupont 55134. This color is a greyish green and according to Chrysler it should be 'silver green'. Dupont 55134 is listed as "51 Ford Meadow Green"
1930 Model 77 Hydraulic Brakes
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Personally, I'd be going through the brake adjustment procedure. You've already said that the car stops well and doesn't pull. To me that says the hydraulic side of things is working properly. Easy check is to back the brakes off just a little. If they are clear of the drums when you start driving they shoes should be clear when you stop. If they aren't then start looking at hydraulics.