lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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“Note that the sprocket is recessed below the face with no contact to the rail.” The assembly looks correct. The sprocket and the rail should not touch. There is another sprocket hidden under the plate. So the rail and the sprocket both contact to a third sprocket. The common fault is that this sprocket seizes and will not turn.
Step 1 of the fix is simple. All of that zinc grease lubricant has to be removed. Then heaps of WD-40 (any penetrating oil will do)onto the shaft of the third sprocket.
Step 2 is the tricky part. Remove the winder. The shaft of the windscreen winder should be square. With a good sized adjustable spanner slowly wind the shaft back and forth until it frees. Be careful! It is very easy to bend that rail if you put too much force on it.
Laurie
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My two cents worth:
1929 Chrysler 75
1928-32 Franklin 14 15
1929 Hudson
1929 Reo Master
All had 7 lug 18” but the lugs were on the outside of the hub. All wheels were manufactured by the same company and are interchangeable.
1930 Chrysler 77,
1931-33 Reo Royale
Had wheels identical to that pictured. 7 lug 18” with the lugs internal to the hub. Once again the wheels were manufactured by the same company and are identical.
Packard 30-31 826 833,
Packard 323 std 8-901, 902.
Had wheels similar to that pictured only the spokes were thicker and chromed.
These I don’t know_
1929 Graham
Gardner '28 95
Gardner'29-31 130,
Hupp 29-32 H & US.
Peerless 29-30 125",
35 F.c.31. Viking 29-30
Laurie
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I had the same problem and the cement mixer is the go. I slowed the speed down by changing one of the pulleys. It works well. There are some real cheap mixers on the market now that would probably work out cheaper than a whole pile of chemicals. For the abrasive I used a combination of nuts bolts and medium sized stones.
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I had a quick look under Nash to see if you had posted photos. They do look the same to me. I knew that the wheels were available in 18s and 19s but had not heard of 20s.
I have these surplus. I picked them up at a swap meet last year. I figured somebody may need them one day.
There is also a guy here in Australia who is manufacturing rims and lock rings.
Quality is very good. He is not on the net so here are his contact details.
Reproduction Wheel Rims
Eflint Pty Limited
12 Deviney Street
Helidon
Qld 4344
Australia
(07) 46976462
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I've not heard of a 20" wire wheel with 7 lug. What does it fit?
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This is what you are looking for:
Vintage and Classic Reproductions - Chrysler Parts
(For our American customers - Please contact :- Tom and Cindy Myers at myersedp@aol.com or Phone :- 734-856-1207 DODGE BROTHERS Club Members, or us direct on VintageReproductions@bigpond.com)
Quality is fantastic.
Laurie
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Our solution is quite simple. One GPS is a Garman and the other a TomTom. The unit is mounted on the steering column to reduce the vibration. Its nicely visible and easy to touch, even if you have to put your hand through that big steering wheel. My brother is a bit more talented than me, so he manufactured a fancy aluminium mount. I use a RAM fitting I bought on eBay. On the sedan, the antenna lead runs up the channel that the vacuum tube used. The antenna just sits under the vinyl. Its not fixed in position. The space is nice and tight so it doesn't float around. My antenna plugs into the mounting pod. Clyde's plugs directly into the unit itself.
On the roadster, the lead runs down and under the mat and up the main hood pivot bow. The bow is covered so the lead is hidden. A little piece of velcro holds the antenna in place. The roadster was sold and is now in Belgium so I can't show you any pictures.
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I had the same problem in my 29 Chrysler sedan and my brother had the same in his 29 Dodge roadster. Both were solved with the use of an external antenna. The manufacturer advised that firstly the vibration is a major issue and secondly the vertical positioning. His words: With the windscreen vibrating the suction mount actually amplifies the GPS vibration and it tends to lose the signal from the satellite. The signal is very week on a vertical windscreen and you will most likely only have two satellites. Laurie
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Australia did not sever its last ties with England until 1986.
I am not sure where this comes from. Australia is still part of the Commonwealth and has not severed any ties with England.
Willys77 you are 100% correct. It was very rare for an import to come direct from the USA. All pre 1931 Chryslers were imported fully bodied, most built in Canada. Only Dodge, Desoto and Plymouth recieved Holden bodies. For example there are many Budd bodied DA Dodges here as well as Holden bodied DA Dodges. Chryslers feature Locke bodies and Chrysler bodies. Some US built cars were exported through Canada and were not taxed to the same amount as US exports. TJ Richards started in about 1931/32 and became the sole supplier in 1934/1935.
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The Stewart Warner vacuum tank uses a cantilever style mechanism. When the inner tank fills with fuel the float triggers the mechanism and a needle seats into the bottom of this fitting to block off the vacuum. When the float lowers to a certain point the mechanism is triggered to open the vacuum. If the system was totally closed the engine vacuum would be sucking on the needle and prevent it from releasing so the small hole you have pointed out is designed to relieve the vacuum. Have I explained that well enough?
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All Australian built roadsters have the golf bag door on the left hand side. The grey roadster above is US built. To the best of my knowledge the 1929 and 1930 Chryslers here in Australia were all imported from Canada. I know of two 77s that have the recessed bead and both are Locke bodies.
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If the choke butterfly is closed then the engine won't be able to get air. I'd be trying to get the carburetor assembled correctly before you go too much further. But to get 20minutes of run time with the butterfly closed is very confusing. That suggests a lack of fuel or a hell of a lot of air getting through one of the gaskets.
You also said that fuel was pouring out of the bottom of the carburetor. I think there are two ways that this can happen. Firstly if the needle in the carb is not seated correctly the fuel flow will not be stopped. The more common reason is a faulty vacuum tank. The vacuum tank will continue to suck fuel through until the tank is full and then the vacuum will suck the fuel directly into the manifold flooding the carburetor.
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Check out the service procedures:
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I use Castrol GTX in my 75 and I change it every year.
But I also have a full flow oil filter fitted.
If you are still using the original bypass filter then you need a low detergent oil.
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Thought I would add a few more. From down under a Richards body coupe and sedan.
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1929 Chrysler 75 - 5 window coupe
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The 1929 Chrysler 75 had 18 inch 7 stud wire wheels. The studs are on the outside of the hubcap. The 29 Reo and 29 Hudson also had the same wheels. The 29 Hudson also had the option of the 19inch 7 stud wheels.
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The Chrysler 75 has one small round badge on the top of each headlight and an oval badge in the centre of the rear panel that covers the fuel tank. I think it is the only vintage Chrysler that doeas not wear a badge on the radiator.
Laurie
correct wiring for installing auxiliary electric fan w/switch
in Technical
Posted
If the instructions call for a 20 amp fuse I'd be putting in a relay. Then run a wire direct from the battery terminal through a fuse to the relay. Your switch then just goes to the relay as well. No point in having additional electrons running around under the dash if they are nor required.