lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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Longman, I am reasonably sure the wheels you speak of as well as the wheels for Bill Hales Dodge came from Queensland.
I've seen Gary's wheels and they are first rate.
But also consider the Elflint wheels. Dick is already making wheels for Chryslers and Dodges.
Elflint (Dick Pateman)
12 Deviney St
Helidon QLD 4344
07 46976462
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I think the easiest, fastest and safest method is to remove the bonnet, grill and front guards. That way you have no risk of damaging anything, and engine and gearbox come out as one.
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They are still made.
Check eBay - heaps of different shapes and sizes.
Mopar Charger Roadrenner Coronet Duster RH.LH Lug Nuts | eBay
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Bushed shackles are easy to tell if they are worn. But what about 1929 shackle insulators? How do you tell if they need replacing? My car has been on the road (second time around) since 1984 so I'm thinking maybe it's time for some new ones.
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I can't find any reference to a 357.8 cu in straight 8.
Interesting though a friend believes that the R designation refers to roadster. Looking through the net the CD models that do list a chassis number have CD......R , so that may be the origin of the R designation.
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After 1930 Chrysler engines were prefixed with CC, CD, CG etc. Chrysler R prefix engine was the 1929 model 75. Yes they were raced but only a 6 cylinder.
I don't recall any Chrysler engine with that prefix.
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I agree.
Side light oddity could be reflection or maybe shadow.
Looks like it would be a good buy. Nothing obvious to fault.
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What diameter/size are they?
They are close to but not the same as 1930 Chrysler 77.
The 77 caps are slightly different in profile shape.
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2265186 fits a 1962 Plymouth and 1962 Dodge (except for the 880). It will not fit a 1964 Chrysler. The push button housing and slide assembly isn't actually worth much. I sold two last year for $50 each and they took 12 months to move. The cables on the other hand are worth money if you have them and they are new.
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Some models for export were changed to suit the design requirements of the destination.
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The Chrysler 65 and 75 both had three levers on the steering wheel.
Centre horn, then the light control lever in bottom position, then advance/retard, then throttle on the outside.
Updraught carburettors are prown to flood if you do the wrong thing. This is how I start my Chrysler 75. Pull the choke out all the way. Move the hand throttle just a little down. Move the advance/retard to the mid position. Do not touch the accelerator pedal! Crank the engine until it fires. Mine just gives a little kick and then stops most times. Move the choke in to the 3/4 position. Crank the engine again until it fires and it should run at a fast idle. After a minute push the choke all the way in. Did I mention do not touch the accelerator pedal?
That's the process I've used on all of my cars and it works for me. Now that assumes that the car has spark and fuel etc and is ready to go.
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All water cooled petrol engine cars pre 1960s should run at 185 degrees Fahrenheit. Now there is a whole heap of formula to consider taking into account lowest operating temperatures and highest operating temperatures and power bands and all that crap. But the reality comes down to peak efficiency for all internal combustion engines of that era being 185 degrees. All cars will run slightly hotter at idle and slightly hotter with heavy loads.
Side valve Chrysler engines don't like running above 200 degrees; they tend to cook piston 5.
The other trap with pre 1930's Chrysler, Dodge, Desoto is the temperature gauges are notoriously inaccurate and generally read low.
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I drive a 1929 Chrysler. I use E10 (10% ethanol). I finished the rebuild in 1984 and she is very reliable. I drive her regularly and I drive her long distances. If you restore your car correctly it will be as reliable as any other car and it will stay reliable if and only if you maintain it. Modern cars need regular maintenance and so too do the old ones. (Maybe more often) Doing work on a car doesn't mean that it is unreliable.
The biggest enemy of any car (or any mechanical device for that matter) is lack of use. If your car sits for months on end it will be unreliable.
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I'm not a fan of petrol treatments. You'll be a lot better off if you work out what parts the ethanol is going to affect and change them.
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I'm not familiar with Whippets, so it's just a case of tracing the oil line through. Where does the oil travel after it leaves the oil pump? If it's a full flow then all of the oil travels through the filter. Partial flow generally splits with some oil going to the filter and the rest to the engine.
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In my opinion, yes. I have modified all of my cars to have a full flow oil filter. The Chrysler originally had a bypass partial flow filter, I modified the system to have a full flow filter.
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Not even close. Nothing will fit.
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I've only ever seen one NOS set on eBay and that was years ago. They're in my car now.
What you have looks to be in fairly good condition. Have they been tampered with or butchered?
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If you have gravity feed system there cannot be a vapor lock. The vapor lock (pressure bubble in the fuel line) will expand back into the tank which is not pressurized. The problem is when you have a fuel pump which has a one way valve and the carburetor with the needle seat closed, there is no way that the heated pressurized vapor can escape.
That’s actually not correct. A vapor lock in early cars with gravity feed is very common. The vapor lock is as you describe a pressure bubble, where liquid fuel essentially turns into a gas within the fuel lines. Any gas bubble will travel up the fuel line to the highest point. A gas bubble cannot travel downhill. In the case of a vacuum tank system the gas bubble will in most cases travel back up to the vacuum tank. However, if there is a pig tail or ‘kink’ in the pipe the gas bubble cannot go anywhere. It becomes trapped in the fuel line and prevents liquid from going past. The first step in any situation where you suspect a vapor lock is to ensure that any trapped vapor can escape. Remember vapor cannot travel downhill.
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The first thing to look for when vapour lock is experienced is the fuel line. Especially with vacuum tank and gravity fed cars. The fuel line must always run downhill. Any fancy pigtail or trying to hide the fuel line should be eliminated.
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The decklid is the easiest part of the car to replicate. It's got no beads, just a smooth skin. Build yourself a simple frame out of 1 inch square tube and just roll a sheet over the top and fold down the edges.
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My fathers Budd body DA 1929 Dodge has steel tubes from the rumbleseat trough to the outside. These are known to rust out. My Chrysler 75 coupe also has steel tubes off the seat and rubber hose off the back window.
26 Chrysler water pump removeal
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
The pulley is two parts. The set screw on the outer half is removed first and then the outer half screws off the the inner half. Looking at the front of the pulley it turns anti clockwise. The inner part of the pulley is retained on the centre shaft by a nut. The pulley is not pressed on the shaft, it is a friction fit.