lozrocks
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Posts posted by lozrocks
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The floor board lock key actually has nothing to do with the floor.
It's the key that opens the golf bag door on the side of the car, to access the floor boards in the dicky seat area.
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Your Cranbrook will easily tow 1500kg (one and a half ton). My book puts your car's curb weight at 1,451–1,542 kg
Rule of thumb, the laden weight of the trailer should be less than the unladen weight of the car.I know my father's 1929 Dodge has towed a 1100kg camper van half way around the country and hardly knew the trailer was there.
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Morse Timing Chain No 803
1 & 1/4inch wide
centre rail
79 links
I've attached photos of a Chrysler 75 timing chain which is shorter than the imperial.
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On 6/22/2021 at 7:25 PM, statusman2010 said:
Diff ratio ??? My 1928 Chrysler is maybe a 30 MPH vehicle. What do other vintage car guys do to get them to manage 5PH or almost highway speed??
Irrespective of your diff ratio, your car should be able to achieve better than 30mph. My first thought is that something is wrong with the engine.
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My preference is to use Dot 5 if the car is not going to be used regularly.
I always use Dot 3 in my daily driver.
Dot 5 will affect pressure brake switches.
I've found no difference in the driving of a car with either 3 or 5. To me the brakes feel the same.
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On 6/15/2021 at 7:24 PM, Vintageben said:
Hey that’s really great info, I’m pretty new to the Chrysler game so I’m on a bit of a learning curve too. I find your comments on all 75’s to be fully imported Interesting as I have been let to believe otherwise but as I say I’m still learning and happy to be Corrected. If they were all imported do you know if all the Roadsters had folding windscreen post or were some fixed posts. Any info is appreciated. Cheers Ben
To the best of my knowledge, all of the export 75 roadsters had a folding windscreen.
Typically with Chryslers, the lower level models were available for locally built bodies, but the bigger cars were not. There are 1929 Model 65s in Australia with Holden bodies, but the 75s and imperial 80s were all imported.
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If you are wanting an early Mopar, I know this car has been around a while but it was a very well built car and very reliable. The 75's are great to drive and hydraulic brakes make them stop along with the modern traffic. I haven't seen the Les's car since the mid 90's but I would assume it is still as good now as then.
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Originally restored by Les Smith in Shepparton. Absolutely beautiful car.
Manifold and gearbox are from a 1930 model not original to the 1929. They were fitted for better driveability.
Lanes Melbourne sold the car when new. All model 75s in Australia were fully imported and not fitted with TJRichards bodies.
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shock absorber, modified to act as steering damper. Mine had something similar.
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I can't place it on a 75.
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Any body able to tell me the correct part number for the headlight lens for a 1929 Chrysler 75?
I'm going to have a search thru some lenses on the weekend and hopefully will find the correct lens.
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Your best bet is a 12volt to 6 volt step down converter that will supply 30 amps.
This will do the job.
There are 40 amp units available as well if you need more grunt.
Do not use a resistor. It just becomes a fire hazard.
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The cars I know of use the same handle that opens the golf club door on the side.
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The small door is unlocked with the handle underneath.
The large door is unlocked with a removable handle. It should have a U shaped handle to pull the door open.
The locking bolt protrudes from the large door into the small door.
The small door has two lock bolts which engage with the sides of the car.
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I've seen a lot of the top handles on Australian built cars.
It could be that the top handle was used by TJRichards, and the bottom handle US built cars.
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6 hours ago, leomara said:
The mystery continues as you can see because in some of these photos the drivers seat is larger than the passengers seat and in others vise versa.......
Not really possible to tell because of the angle of the camera. In each photo the seat closest to the camera will always appear larger.
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I 've always thought it was a fifty/fifty split, or a one piece. I don't think the roadster came out with different sized swabs.
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I run a blanking disc in my 1929 '75'. I have found that it makes absolutely no difference to running temperature.
When I first put my car on the road I fitted (what I thought) a brass welsh plug behind the water pump. The engine was fitted with one when I dismantled it. The welsh plug rusted out. (so much for supposedly being brass) I ran the car for about ten years without one. On the last rebuild I fitted a stainless steel plug. Its been running fine since then. But I don't see any difference in running temperature.
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What a great read!
Some very interesting insight into people's thoughts on restoration.
I have found in my last two rebuilds that when I get near the end I start to loose focus. I start to question myself about whether or not nuts and bolts are tight, or whether I have missed something.
Is everything together? What is going to fall off as I drive down the road?
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There are different capacity flasher cans available.
From memory the common modern units are 18W and 21W. Older units are marked in candle power being 24CP, 32CP and 40CP.
You need to match the flasher can to the bulb size.
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22 hours ago, leomara said:
So the 6 volt battery of 1928 was nothing like the group one 6 volt battery of today? I question that because even the reproduction Ford batteries made for the Model A were not much different in size than todays group 1. Then again I have no idea what type of battery Chrysler was using except that the owners manual says it was a Willard.....
Even today, bigger engines demand bigger batteries. So fairly obviously a Chrysler battery would be much bigger than a Ford battery.
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The original battery fitted neatly in the battery box. The threaded rod was to secure the battery. There is enough movement in the battery box to clamp onto the battery.
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The LED turn signals for most motorcycles require negative ground. The circuit inside is generally potted and very difficult to modify.
Unfortunately it will be a gamble as to whether the particular type you want will work. Maybe try contacting the manufacturer first.
Replacement spark plugs for 1927 Chrysler 6 Red Head
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
There is also the option of fitting adapters to change the plugs to a modern 14mm or 1/2 inch.
This gives you the opportunity to play around with different temperature plugs to get your car running at its peak.
The C4 plug I believe is a reasonably cold plug and some of the industrial alternatives that are sold are even colder. With modern fuels our cars need a hotter plug.
I've been running 14mm plugs in my Chrysler 75 (silver dome) for many years and it is currently fitted with Bosch HR8DCV plugs with and adapter.