dave38fastback

Hi Fred. I have just fitted a 3.23 rear to my '38 which has made a huge difference. I roughly guess/calculate that using the 3.5 ratio diff your current 45mph actual should lift to around 55.2mph actual at the same engine revs. The lower the diff ratio number the lower your engine revs to achive the same speed. Just consider the type of roads you are driving, are they steep with lots of climbing are are you more flat with the occasional hill. By lowering the diff ratio you make it easier to cruise the flat but harder work on steep hills. These old flatheads have plenty of torque so will pull qite OK in most cases. Also what tyres are you on?? I retained tall tyres on my 16 inch rims but went to radials, this also made the beast a lot more user friendly. Rgds Dave

Interesting comment about heat build up, I have just done that (tube into a tubeless) and this was a requirement in order to get the car certified and "safe and legal" for our roads. I suspect the difference is our lower maximum summer temperature and shorter distances may mean that heat build up is unlikely...... Rgds laz

Close up of wheel and tire attached

Have never heard that one (not to say it may not be true) I have a '38 that I switched to radial tires. I opted to go for widened rims as well. The difference was AMAZING...does not wander, smoother and quieter. I recommend the switch. See attached pic, rgds Laz

I have used the POR15 brand of fuel tank cleaner/prep and sealer. Worked very well, did not cost a lot. Downside is that it takes time as the tank has to be dried between some processes and this can take 24 hours alone. but if you have the time it is great.

Nice car, tell us a bit more about it, have you just purchased it, does it run well? I also have an odd '38 (although its a Dodge not a DeSoto.....I have never acually seen another like mine, but I know one other exists...but after that who knows. I have been searching and looking for others like mine for two years. The convertable is the only other style I would like to own.....but they are so rare and good ones are worth moonbeams.

Use a 12volt test lamp to see if you have any power at the starter, check both the main heavy cable and the one to the solnoid. With the ignition switch on check to see if you have power at the coil (either side). Without these two you are not off 1st base. Check that the terminals on the battery are clean and tight AND check your earth strap is well grounded to the body and not broken along the way.

Hi There The tyres that were originally on the car were 600 x 16, and were about 20 years old so were as hard as rocks. I found them difficult to drive as the car wandered when surface was anything other than absolutely smooth. They transmitted EVERY bump in the road (now that I think about it that is probably what gave the impression of noise) and they were unpredictable on corners and when going above 40mph. Having said all the above in my case they were probably worse than normal due to their age. However...... when speaking to others down here, those prepaired to forgo the authentic look and have gone to newer radial tyres they all give them the thumbs up. Having now changed to radials I agree the cars are much safer and easier to drive and recommend others change also. I suspect that the wider radial IS noisier...but since they are softer the car rattles less....therefore quieter. If you want I can let you know what tyre I got, but they may be specific to this part of the world.

At the risk of being burned at the stake, here is a pic of my 38 with new radial tyres...however in order to get the tyres on I had to widen the rims!! But the improvement in handling, reduced noise is significant. For the purist...the rims can be slit and welded back as skinnies.....but I don't see that happening!! I have kept the high profile so that I do not lose too much top end speed.

Any glass place should be able to cut you new glass (it is all flat glass) they will just need to source automotive grade in a gauge same as/close to original. This can then be "glued" into the channel using automotive body adhesive (usually black in colour. Make sure you re-attach the new glass into the channel the same way (remember left and right will be different) AND with the channel not squewed to one end or other. Let it sit. If yopu need new channel felts I got mine from Roberts Motor parts. The winder mechanism should also be available at swapmeets/e-bay. I replaced all the glass in my 38, makes the car look great.

Hi Guys I have a great set of replica hubcaps...can not distinguish from originals. You may be able to locate a set via the following (my brother..also has a 38 coupe) emial address johnlazarus@earthlink.net They set the car off so well and make it look a million $. Sorry can not help on the other parts although I do have fitted to my car the "automatic" hood openers where they catch and hold hood open then you lift a little higher and they release so you can lower the hood back down. Will try to add pic of hubcaps to this. Rgds

A little off track but on my '38 Dodge Sedan I installed a wiper system from BMC cars (Austin/Morris)and it works really well. HOWEVER....I am running 12 volt and that makes it easier. The electic motor is mounted in the gap between driver footwell and outer panel, copper tubing is used for the corkscrew cable to sit in and all this passes up through the A pillar and activatres the small driving cogs that turn the spindles/wipers. I have a two speed wiper motor (but only use one speed adn I am told that some guys have even set thirs to "auto park" when the turn off the wipers. The degree's of sweep required on my 38 are quite compatible with what this system offers.

The Convertable coupe that I was refering to has turned out to be a 37, it is very tidy and the current owner will make it an even better car.

Hi Peter, sounds like a nice car, post a pic if you can. I have a 38 Dodge Fastback and can only find 1 other in existance. However I have seen something very similar to yours in the 2 months, just cant be sure of the year, could be '37, '38 or '39......I will check it out.

Hi There I have a '54 engine bolted to a '38 gearbox/clutch without any problems. You MAY need to change starter if the flywheel is different, maybe even re-bush where the input shaft positions into the flywheel but it should work....I even spoke to guy on the weekend that bolted a 40's engine to a '37 Plymouth bodied Chrysler...no complications. Even if there is a mismatch it likely to be minor and an easy fix. Let us konw hopw you go!!!

Hi There The engine is a 230ci bored 30 thou over, it was fully reconditioned 2000 miles ago so will be ok for a bit of tweeking. I have attached a picture of what I want to do, all standard MOPAR speed equipment of the era, all stuff that can be undone in an afternoon and will not corrupt the car. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Hi Guy's thanks for the infomation, the plan is to "hot" the engine up with replica stuff used at the time and the websites will help a lot. If I go ahead any changes will only be done if easily reversable back to standard. Pics of the beast attached.

Hi DeSoto Frank I noticed your comment about speed parts for flathead 6 (230) on the Plymouth forum I have a 38 Dodge Fastback and am keen to perk up the performance with a few speed parts of the era, yet can not find any websites or anyone that sells this gear. Can you point me in the direction of where I can get this stuff. I live in New Zealand but have a brother in Reno with a 38 Dodge coupe (does that make us genuine "Dodge Brothers"?) who can buy and ship bits to me that you simply can not get down here. I tried to e-mail you but it bounced right back Thanks Dave

Hi Thom. Thanks for the info about where to get stuff, I have a box of spares and am starting to look through this for lesser worn parts. Since I am 1/2 the world away getting parts shipped is only done as a last resort. I have pulled the g/box apart and it seems pretty simple.....however I am sure that WPC's engineers have left a few tricks and suprises in it for the uninformed. I will be gutted if once rebuilt I end up missing a critical "don't forget to check......" part of the re-build. I hope to get a "few tricks of the trade" from members

Hi, am looking to rebuild a rattley g/box, she buzzes in first. Would welcome advice as to where to focus my attention (as in what normally wears out in these things) Also, the cluster gear shaft weeps/leaks a little at both ends, any thoughts as to how to seal these. I know they do not spin so would like to seal this shaft in place. Same applies to the reverse idler. But mostly just want general advice as to where to look for wear and tear on these. It is your standard 3 speed box. thanks Dave

I used 1/4 inch black and it seemed to work just fine, also matched the few reminants that I found on the panels. Rgds Laz

Had another look....assumed my rotor traveled anticlockwise...but it doesn't!!!! so 153624 is of course correct. Why did I think it travelled anticlockwise......who knows!!!

Hi There I could have the order wrong (cold and rather dark in garage here...winter) so will check. I now wonder which cylinder the manual calls #1, Is it nearest the firewall or the radiator!!. I can see another cold 20 minutes in the workshop tonite. Will let you know.

Hi Thom, as I understand it the paint is a two pot enamel (not being a painter I assume that is correct). The colour is a BMW colour, Fjiord Blue. I wanted a subdued colour as the car is so big that a strong colour can be too much, I also chose a colour that would contrast with the chrome, and finally had to match the colours of the interior. At the risk of being beaten up by the purists I have not gone the "true original" way.... but am happy with what I have.

Easy mistake to make!! Firing order is 1,4,2,6,3,5. To get the correct leads in the correct terminal hole try this. The cap has two grooves which the side clips go into. Look at the inside of the cap, there is a locating tab beside one of these grooves, turn the cap back up the normal way with the groove that is over the location tab on your right. The terminal hole immediately BELOW the LEFT hand groove (the one WITHOUT the locating tab beneth it is your number 5. Going clockwise next is 1, then 4 then 2 etc. Centre is of course from your coil. Any probs send me a message. Hope this works!!