dave38fastback

My 38 was painted about 2 years ago, I went with a modern colour simply because I did not like any of the originals (and I don't think there is any right or wrong on colour choice its just what you want and are happy with) They did not clear coat and it looks great. I agree that to have paint that looks inches thick and sooooooo glossy on an otherwise standard car will look odd. These cars are not easy to paint, they are very big, tall and with rounded panels are a challenge to lay the paint down evenly. Check that your painter confident of a good job no matter what system you choose. Rgds Dave

Hi There. Great to hear of another 38 getting restored. I have just finished a complete resto of a 38 Dodge (Fastback). Regretably I am not at all close to where you live but am happy to provide pictures and suggestions that I found worked well. I found there are a lot modern materials available that make the resto easy and good. Feel free to contact me. Dave.

I had the exact same problem. Solution is to hand cut a rubber pad for the stem of the mirror to sit on (on the outside of the car) this will protect your paint AND moves the threaded bracket outward. Then you start grinding the grub screws down so that when wound in tight they are flush with the outer surface of the bracket. You may have to mount the mirror shightly higher on the door than you want because I suspect the gap gets smaller the closer you get to the hinge.

Hi There I have a set of 4 replica hubcaps. They are like new, and as close to the original spec as I have ever seen. They have been re-skinned using polished stainless. Contact me if you want photos (however I am in New Zealand). Rgds

Neat car, can see why you smile when driving. Start watching e-bay for parts, and also places like Roberts Auto Parts has spares. However, I would only repair/replace what is really necessary, a car like yours may well be better appreciated as is, even if there are a few worn patches on it. Good older original cars are getting scarce. Heat sensor, again e-bay and it will most likely need to be a complete engine to gauge replacement as the bulb (sensor) and capilary tube are filled with ether. They have a tendency to break. Good temporary fix is to do a temporary install of a cheap modern gauge, just so you can keep an eye on temperature and not cook anything. Widsheild if flat glass any repair shop should be able to fix.

With my car 99% finished I am trying to find a front passenger window winding mechanism (do not need handle). It is to fit short wheel base 38 Dodge with the single pane front side window. I need this before car will be allowed on road so if anyone has a spare and is willing to part with it I would be very appreciative. Thanks for your help. Dave

Check to make sure you do not have the long block engine (looks just the same but is 2 or 3 inches longer). also check that you have correct bell housing and rear mount positions as the head should only be about 1 1/2 forward of your firewall when in the correct position. You should be left with tones of clearance at the fan end of the engine. Rgds

I recall that you use cork gaskets that are approx 1/4 inch square and supplied in a strip. This goes between the frame and the headlight body (or shell). This both helps to seal the headlight from rain and also provides a soft buffer between internal frame and the body.The frame is held in place by springs and clips. Springs are approx 1/3 diameter and 1 1/2 long. The clips are V shaped with opposing flat pieces at the yop of the V. Once you have the frame in and have got adjustment screws in place and working then the reflector clips in. There is a slot in the bottom on the frame that matches a tab that sticks out of the bottom edge of the reflector, engage these into each other. Tilt the top of the reflector backwards into the headlight body and a tab on the top edge of the reflector will lock into the top of the frame. Any probs send me your e-mail and I will take pics...much better to see than to explain.

Hi, Thanks for your comment, the old beast is slowly getting finished. Yes it is a bit unusual, more so as it is right hand drive. It would be great to know and make contact with any other fasback owners...but to date I am unable to locate any <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. Rgds Dave

Hi All. Refer pic attached, Still trying to find ANY OTHER '38 Dodge Fastback that may be out there. Anyone seen one of these please let me know. Only 714 made....but there must be a few left!! Thanks Dave

Hi there. Good to hear that oil pressure is back where it should be. About the knock in engine. Can you advise if there is any pattern to the noise, eg louder under load/not under load etc. My thoughts are to drop off your sump (oil pan) and have a look also drop off the flywheel cover and make sure there is no excess movement. Also check bottom of sump for any metal filings, and also check your tappets/valves. If after all this nothing shows up just keep running it. The engines are almost indestructable...I know of one person who replaced a shattered main on the side of the road with a piece of vinyl flooring and limped on for another 20 miles to the next town!!

what we call a panel shop over here is probably what you call a body shop (repairs car body/chassis). Regaring the oil issue, if the oil pressure is high both with and without the filter being online then it must be your spring. I find with these old motors it's easier to work one issue out at a time. Suggest you work on the by-pass spring, then the noise. Some thing to consider are removing the oil pan (sump) and checking big ends, as well as any sign of slop between crank and flywheel. Rgds Dave

Regarding the bent wheel rim, try your friendly panel shop, they may have gear to give the rim a quick tweek. Or....relegate bent one to spare and use spare on the car for normal running. Thinking about your oil pressure/engine knock, if you reduce the oil pressure and the knock is still there you need to look into what is causing the knock. I am just wondering if you have a blockage down stream of your oil pump that is lifting oil pressure and also starving some part of the engine. Just for interests sake I would by-pass the filter and see what happens. Do this by-pass before altering the relief valve. Dave

Have checked my workshop manual. It states that "correect pressure is 30-45lbs, at normal driving speed". It then says that oil pressure should be checked with the correct viscosity oil and with the engine at normal operating temperature. The oil pressure may be changed by changing the spring in the oil pressure relief valve. A heavy spring is used to increse pressure and a lighter spring to reduce pressure. Standard springs are not painted, heavy springs are painted green and lighter are painted red. Suggest you removee spring and attempt to find a replacement/subsitute that is lighter. Clearly at 85lbs something is going to pop sooner or later!!!! Hope this helps

Suggest you look at the spring as it may be too strong or too weak. I wonder if during the reconditioning a non standard spring was put in by mistake. My car starts up at approx 40 and when hot and with engine revving only goes to about 45. I have a workshop manual and so will have a check through that tonite. Rgds dave

Brakes can be very frustrating. From the wierd ideas file can you change one of the front slave cylinders (working) to the rear. If it works then look at your slave cylinder if it doesn't...go back to the master!! At least you can then focus on where its causing the problem.

We have cast several of these very rare front/rear bumper badges for the 1938 Dodge (sorry does not fit '37 or '39) These are not very often seen as they were the first thing to get damaged in an accident. These are cast in bronze, polished and chromed,mounting bolt fitted and look really neat if you paint the recess in the same colour as your car. These are being sold for $100 each plus freight/postage wthin USA Just a few are available by contacting John via e-mail johnlazarus@earthlink.net Photos are available on request.

Hi There Can't help regards 3 on tree, but your engine is the same as my 38 (same basic engine used from approx '37 to '54). Like you I am finding top speed pretty slow, worse if the wheels diameter have been reduced. I can't help with technical stuff but a suggestion to look into is increasing your diff ratio. Some 40,s models may have taller gearing in the rear end. Suggest you explore this as a fairly easy fix. If you can drop the revs you reduce fuel consumption/wear and chances of overheating. ebay may help you with workshop manuals.

I suspect the bonnet/sides are also different on truck to that on the car. Check also shape of guards. See pics attached that may help. Rgds Dave

I have one of the above, I understand that only 700 approx were made. I have never heard of anyone else owning one of these. To make mine more unusual my 38 is RH drive (export version). If anyone knows of/has one of these 38 4 door Fastbacks (also called slopers) I would like to know. Thanks Dave [color:"blue"]