fred

Car looks great, glad to see another 46-48 Chrysler on the road again. Here is a pic of my 47 Royal Club Coupe....

Good Info Bill, would like to try this too.

I also new someone who just about bought Pettys 46 Chrysler Biz Coupe. Not sure how many of these models still exist today, perhaps C49ner or Bill Watson might have an idea. Also check out, yahoos 1946-1948 Chrysler PWHM Board...

If it is infact gearo-matic (Gyromatic), that would be Greek, as Gyro in Greek is pronounced Gearo. Check with a real Expert and Mopar Historian by the name of Bill Watson, he lurks on P15-D24 Homepage , a place you may want to check out. Bill also lurks on here sometimes too, so see if you can send Him a PM. Bill really is an expert on Mopar History and facts.....

Hows this , scanned from the 1940-48 Chrysler Shop Manual.

It was cold, about 10-15 f, bu no wind, cold and dry....

Here ya go, come for a virtual ride in my 1947 Chrysler Royal Coupe, L head 6 cylinder engine, 3 spd trans and regular clutch, no fluid drive.

How about this, my 1947 Canadian Chrysler C38 Coupe, originally came with fluid drive and 3 spd trans. I now have a regular clutch 3spd trans, 3.73 diff. The rear engine mount frame had to be moved forward and modded, to fit, but it was not a difficult job. I did not do this job, my uncle did this in 1983, and sure wish he did not, as I now would have to reverse all of this to get a fluid drive back in this car. I have the parts, but am not sure I want to do this at this point or not. Most late 40s and early 50s Canuck Dodges (Plyms in disguise), had mostly all regular clutch and fluid drive, have not seen anything else, not in this part of Canada...

In my case, or in my reasoning, I had been using a 160 t/stat, for the following reasons. In summer(when I use my car the most), my engine will run at 165-170 on the highway, on hot days add 10 degrees, on super hot days, on the highway, pulling hard in traffic, it can rise to 185-190. If I were running a 180 t/stat, I would be in the 200 range on real hot days driving down the highway. I think temps over 190 for any sustained driving is too hot for these engines, at least that has been my belief, I certainly may be wrong in this assumption. My cooling system is clean, water dist tube, water jackets rad, etc, but my engine is not rebuilt, and may not take the heat as well as a rebuilt engine.....

Hey all, I replaced my 160 t/stat with a 180, on my 47 Chrysler 6 cylinder. I did this thinking this would be a better bet, but am not 100% convinced. Yes the 180 t/stat would allow a quicker engine warm-up, and would maintain a better engine temp on super cold days. But I drive my car in snow free weather, in temps usually 40s and above. My concern is my engine will run too hot, on those warmer days, especially on faster highway speeds. So what is consensus, what does the majority run for t/stats in their Mopar Flathead 6s.......Fred

Very nice, have you had this engine running yet, what does the Dyno register for HP. This is quite an expensive touch, at about 6 grand, for the f head conversion. I am glad you are on e Guy whao believes inthese old flathead 6s....

Rubber parts ie weatherstrip, light pads, motor mounts see Steele Rubber, Klesters, Roberts Motor Parts. Mechanical items, Kanters, Roberts motor Parts, Rock Auto. Headliners, Carpet sets, door panels, see SMS Auto Fabric, Kanters, Ez Boys, JC Whitney. Fenders, do some searching around on the Old Chrysler boards, by a parts car is best. What fender do you need? Front or rear, right or left. Interior repro plastic parts see Ed Pauch on Yahoos PWHM 46-48 Chrysler Board, or contact ed direct at edwardpauch@shaw.ca Seat Covers, can be bought at Kanters, EZ Boy interiors, JC Whitney or Ebay. Hope this helps

Yes, I would have to agree that the Chrysler line, were a luxury line, 46-48 Royals in Canada were often equipped with fluid drive coupler and 3 spd trans, like the Dodges had. You could upgrade to an M5 semi-auto trans, as Windsors had this trans. Eeven in 49 and 50, a lot of Canuck Royals still came witha 3 spd trans and Fluid Drive. Sadly my car had it's fluid drive taken out many years ago, I have a dry clutch, 3 spd trans like a Dodge or Plym. I could re-install another fluid drive, and 3spd trans. but would have to move the rear cross member, and longer clutch rod for the throw out bearing too. Other than that, there would not be much to it. I do have a fluid drive, and housing, if I ever felt this should be attempted.......Fred

It's funny, the Royal was the low entry level line, yet they had the beautiful woodgrain dash, and garnish trims, a very classy look. I have a 47 Royal, and they are of course more rare than any Windsor, because of the lower level production of them......Fred

Hi Joe, please send me a PM on the price you want, I always tell people just let me know what you want, if agreeable will take it.........Fred

Hey all, I have 49 full disc hub caps on my 1947 Chrysler, and I like them. Today I found whitewall trims rings, and they look not too bad with the stock OEM hub caps. Anybody have these type of trim rings and hub caps on there 46-48 Chrysler....Fred

Hi Joe, look forward to a picture..........Fred

Thanx Jay, this is the correct number of keys and key assignments, as I have expressed before on this thread, and on another...........Fred

I always was informed to beleive the 46 trhought 48 Chryslers had 3 keys assigned to them. Octagon bow, for ignition and doors, diamond bow for the trunk, and smaller round bow key for glovebox. This is how I re-keyed my C38 47 Chrysler, is this correct of wrong.........Fred

Hi all, does anyone know if the front hood lip trim on 46-48 Chryslers were made with stainless steel, or chrome plated tin. I have 3 or 4 of these trims, none in good shape, all made of tin, that was plated. I have heard of these trims being made of stainless steel in the US, but maybe not in Canada. Does anyone has one of these trims for sale, really could use this. The trim in the pic, is pitted with tiny pin holes, a friend of mine is trying to replate another, but it is a home job, so so far not too good.......thanx Fred

You headliner is atypically a broad cloth material, and a cotton batting sorta insulation, at least on mine that is what was up there. Take precautions when working around Asbestos, where appropriate clothing, respirator, and eye protection. Being that you are not going to work on any of this on a daily basis, you should not have much to worry about. If you are worried about a residual long term affect of the OEM headliner in the car, don't think you have much to worry about. I am generally more concerned with Mouse droppings and Hanta Virus..........Fred

Yup, this is the correct "Recipe" alright, glad it worked out for you.......

Here is a source for plastic interior repro parts, and they are done to a high degree of quality. His name is Ed, contact at edwardpauch@shaw.ca

I suggest you search ebay, as these may come up once in a while, I will PM you with a few NOS Mopar suppliers in Canada, they may have this item, or be able to point you in the right direction. It may be possible to find another glovebox lock assembly with an OEM key too.

Hi Bill, glad to hear this pump is working well, and the new design can handle the ethanol blended fuel too. Todays fuel evaporate much quiker, and probably boil and have vapor locks easier too, that is why you notice this now, and did not notice it back in the 50s. I am planning to do the same thing as you, will be interested to hear how it works for you on 90 degree days, after a good run, and you stop the car for a short time. Most likey with a burst of fuel it will start right up. It is also peace of mind to have this as an emergency pump, I also know some others on P15 D 24, forum, that use this fuel pmp exclusively......Fred