fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elmo39</div><div class="ubbcode-body">fred my suggestion is first loosen the seized bolts then try the method described in the manual , i can assure that it does work as long as you can do all the steps the manual describes, i would try an impact wrench on the seized screws and leave the body jack as a last option </div></div> Hi, do I need to loosen the hinge strap srews on both door and on the A pillar, so far I can only loosen the door screws, have had the door off a few times. If I only need to loosen the door hinge screws and the screws that attach the hinge to the A pillar, I might be in business............Thanx Fred

Yes I have also seen those pics, have tried it unsuccessfuly, but did not get too aggressive, might try a hydraulic bodyjack, any other suggestions.........Fred

Hi all, does anyone know what is the best method to adjust the 1946 to 1948 C 38 Club Coupe doors. My drivers side door needs to go forward, but the hinges are not made with oversized holes to allow the door to slide forward, they are made different than that, infact the hinge screws that go into the hinge pillar are seized. Any advice would be appreciated..........Thanx Fred

Rusty, would it be worth my while to just replace the oil pan gasket, and the bottom rear seal. I just pulled the trans bellhousing flywheel, to replace a leaking rear freeze plug, so I am not in the mood to go through this again. I would have replaced the seal if I was aware of the procedure, but I was not. When I replaced the rear freeze plug, I also had the flywheel machined and balanced, the ring gear flipped,the clutch is new.

Rusty, can the rear main seal be changed in car without flywheel removal, if so, what is the procedure. I will also have to replace the pan gasket........Thanx Fred

Thanx very much Rusty, maybe you are right, adjust lifter, and fix oil leak, not sure what else may need to be done, but other than that it runs great. Just came back froma 20 mile run, it's 30 c or about 86 f here and humid, car ran at about 175 degrees which in my book is good, the whole duration............Fred

Right now I have a 218 ci Canadian Long Block in my 47 Chrysler coupe, it has a dry clutch and 3 spd trans with a 3.73 rearend. I have no idea how many miles are on this engine, whether it was rebuilt since it was new in 1951. Current status of this engine, compression 100 to 110 across the board. Oil pressure when warm is 40 lbs at an idle, 50 to 55 at highway speed. This engine does not smoke, or appear to have an oil burning problem, it does however leak like a siev, going through about a quart every 500 miles, most of which is leaking out the rear mainseal or oil pan. Only other problem with this engine, it has a slight lifter tick. I am not sure how many miles it can handle, if I can use this engine a while longer or not. When I started to use this engine, the water jackets were filthy, water tube half plugged. The valve chamber, had next to no sludge, so maybe thats a good sign. As I have blathered on about, I am afraid to push this engine too much because I don't know how many miles etc. I have a 228, longblock from a 1955 Fargo truck, it runs well, water jackets are super clean, was used inthe truck until 3 years ago, when the owner put in a V8. This engine is okay too. I have a seized 251 with full flow oil filter, vavlve chambers clean, cylinders look good, very little ridge, may or may not be a good candiadte for rebuild. I also am going to buy the Massey Combine engine, it's either a 251 or a 265, hours unknown, owner says it runs well and does not use oil. So for now I will use the 218, then decide which route to go, on another engine. One other question, is the Canadian long blocks 218 crank flange any different from the 228,251, or 265, I have heard the 218 crank flange is thinner, I do know for a fact is an 8 bolt as the others are. The reason I ask this question is, I may swap in a 251 or 265, and I wan to use the currewnt 218 bell housing and flywheel...............Thanx Fred

Problem solved bolt hole tapped to 7/16, and manifold hole drilled to accomodate............Thanx Fred

Hi all, I recently removed my intake/exhaust manifolds to repair a broken seized heatriser, which was stuck in the cold warm-up position BTW. On my Mopar L head 6 there are 11 studs and 2 bolts that attach the manifold to the block. I removed all then I broke the last bolt, sheared off just out of the block. I tried heat, I tried to weld a nut on it, then it was drilling time, made a center mark and drilled, somehow I went off center, got hasty and drilled of half my threads, and made an oval shaped hole. Not sure even if a standard helicoil would fix this now. I was thinking of tapping to 7/16, and making the hole through the manifold larger to accomodate. Does anyone have any advice/ideas, I am in a real jack-pot here...................Thanx Fred

Just noticed somehting, I came back about an hour ago from my ride, I just took a sample off the bottom of the rad drain to see what it looked like, the coolant was quite cool, while on the top of the rad, it was still hot to the touch, is this normal after an hour oor more of sitting, you would think they would be a uniform temp byt then, maybe this rad is partially plugged, works well in the cooler weather, then heats up in warmer weather, just an idea.............Fred

Well, it's porbably in the 160 neighbourhood, it was a cool evening, so no surpirse. Today it's about 63, went for a ride, temp was holding steady at 165, it was noticeably warmer under the hood. I know it was cool out yesterday, as my BBQ was running cool also, the cool breeze can have that effect. I also notice after todays ride, the carb felt cool to the touch, maybe the heatriser is stuck in the warm postion, I will find out soon , as I will be taking it aprt next week. I need a day at 75 or better, if I can keep the temp under 190, I will be happy, still need to check the timing and make sure the vaccuum advance is working, a lot of guys I know are pointing at the timimg as a cause to heat up, I am not so sure.............Fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bober</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have all the original miller tools including the ammco 1750 and a shoe arcing machine. I have used them-but STILL get a semi soft pedal so I just drive the cars and keep adjusting the 3/4" cam bolts.I say -adjust them best as you can then Drive -drive -drive the car for 2-3000 miles if you can then adjust them again. The shoe radius is not exact to the drum. As the linings wear in they adjust up so you will get a very high rock hard pedal. People today are wanting perfection- imediately. With these old cars it takes time to get them perfect! I learned to drive on these old MoPars and still have my 1st car, a 51 plymouth , and have a collection of about 10 more, several are Chryslers 46-52.I have had a lot of 46-54 MoPar brake experience.These cars have excellent brakes once they wear into the drums. Bob </div></div>Thanx Bob, I have kind adjsuted the brakes as you have described, need to adjust a little more on the minor adjsuters again, I do believe they wear-in themselves over some miles, so far no problem with the brakes.......Fred

2nd Update, I went for a drive tonight, outside ambient air temp was around 55 or so. On the highway driving at at 55 mph, the temp remained at about 165 the whole time we were on the highway, when we slowed down in town, the engine temp dropped to about 156, it stayed like that in town, I was even stopped by a cab driver, who turned out to be another old Mopar nut, he has a 1950 Plymouth. The temp remained at 156 while idling for about 10 minutes. So not sure what to make of these temp results, will see once we have warmer weather, the heat riser is still stuck, hope to fix that next week...........Fred

Hi all, I have redone my brakes 2 years ago on my 47 Chrysler. New MC, rebuilt all wheel cyls, new steel lines, new hoses, new shoes,machined drums there in spec, using Dot 5 silicone fluid. I have a reasonably high pedal, I have adjusted the shoes, but did not use a tool such as the Amco Brake Adjuster. My brakes are pretty good, but still could use a better adjustment, is there a shadetree way to set them without the adjsuter tool, or drilling holes in the drums.......Thanx Fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elmo39</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Okay it seems your water flow is good , have you checked your timing, if it is not right it can cause your car to run hot </div></div> Hi, I have timed this engine, but need to check it again for peace of mind, need to borrow a timming light to do so. I really should buy a timing light, one tool I don't have.......Thanx Fred

Okay, I went for a drive tonight, it is cold here tonight around 38. I went for about a 15 mile ride doing speeds of 45 to 55 mph on an old 2 laned highway, temp was dead on at 160, so because the outside ambient temp is cool, I cold not get an accurate test for the engien running a high temp, I will need to wait for temps in the high 60s or low 70s to test it again.........Thanx Fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">[quote name=simplyconnected Install a new (recommended) radiator cap.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hwellens</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do not agree with putting a 16 pound cap on because if the radiator sees that much pressure it will blow it apart.</div></div>That's odd' date=' my wife's 2001 Dodge has one on a plastic bottle. I just looked out the window, and, yep... hasn't blown up, yet. In any case, install a "RECOMMENDED" cap. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fred</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The rad is a 1948 non-pressuire design, it is a honey comb core, it cannot be pressurized, no matter what cap is put on, as the overflow tube is at the top of the rad, not in the filler neck, it is designed this way, as the Mopar rads all were till 1950 or 1951.....thanx Fred </div></div>Fred, what did Chrysler's do in high altitude? There, water boils at under 200-deg.F. Hard-boiled eggs won't harden because they never get hot enough. I'm not questioning Mopar's design. I just don't know how they could stay under 200 degrees. In any case, I would rather you don't have a heat riser at all, than to have one that's stuck shut. To tell you the truth, the Chrsler falthead 6 was no known to run super hot like the Ford flathead V/8, so folks probably used 160 t/stat and in summer the engine temps were probably running between 160 and 180, a 20 to 40 degree margin of error in higher altitudes. No doubt thats hwy a number of old highways throughout the USA and Canada, would have barrels of water along the highways in the Mountain regions for this very reason, not sure though, because I was not born till 1961. The Heatriser I plan to place it permanently in the warm position, allowing the exhaust to flow out, this I can change back with a heatriser kit, if I feel so inclined at some future point, but idoubt it, as I want to go to dual carbs and split exhaust at some point..........Fred Hi, I seeyour point, with every lb you get an extra 2 to 3 degrees above the normal 212 boiling point. When Chrysler switched over to pressurized cooling systems, they were 4 lb rad caps being used, I have used that type of rad with 7 lb caps, without p[roblems.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fred</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ...My heater siser is in the seized positon of cold, which of course is directing all the hot exhaust to the base of the carb, this will be fixed ASAP. When the outside ambient temps are around 65 and over, and driving on the highway at 50 plus mph, the engine will rise up to the 200 range,in a short time,</div></div>Fred, this is exactly what the heat riser is supposed to do, and it appears to be doing it well. But this point, the theromostat and heat riser should open. One diverts heat out the exhaust, the other diverts heat to the radiator. Your cooling system can only disipate btu's based on two things, outside temp and the amount of heat your engine generates. I will assume air and water flow are good. Exhaust is so hot, it will turn your manifold cherry red, running properly (open the hood at night, on a long trip and you will see the glow). With the condition of your heat riser, you are asking the coolant to get rid of that heat, but your cooling system doesn't have the capacity. Free-up the heat riser, your radiator can't compete with exhaust heat. Fixing this will solve your problem. Install a new (recommended) radiator cap. A 16 pound cap will raise the boiling point of plain water to over 250-deg. F. Using antifreeze, the boiling point will be even higher. - Dave Dare </div></div> Hi dave, there is good flow, cleaned out water jackets, t/stat isverified, the heatriser is seized, it does not allow the exhaust to flow out freely but is diverting it under the base of the carb first, adding to the heat in warm weather. The rad i a 1948 non-pressuire design, it is a honey comb core, it cannot be pressurized, no matter what cap is put on, as the overflow tube is at the top of the rad, not in the filler neck, it si designed this way, as the Mopar rads all were till 1950 or 1951.....thanx Fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Kinker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about the radiater itself? They can get plugged up but still flow water. (just not enough) I've had this happen on a couple of my old cars. </div></div> Hi Bob, thanx for the reply, I agree, you can have flow and still be partially plugged or have poor heat transfer. The rad was boiled out last summer in a shop, tested, it was deemed to be good, not excellent but good. I just did a flow test, this is a big 1948 Chrylser rad, it empties between 10 and 15 seconds, has about a 4 inch geyser going ou the botom outlet, there is no crap in the rad. A recore would dtill be better, but I don't have money to burn right now, so I am trying to figure out the root cause of my heating first before spendin the money on a re-core...Fred

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elmo39</div><div class="ubbcode-body">have you checked your themostat , a good way to test it is place it in a pot and slowly bring it to the boil and checking to see what temp it opens </div></div> Hi, yes I have tested the t/stat it appears to be working fine, and you can see when it opens in-car, that there is good flow across the top of the rad......................Fred

Hi all, I have a 47 Chrysler Club Coupe with a 218 Canadian 6 cyl engine, 3 spd trans and 3.73 rearend. Work to date on cooling system, remove freeze plugs and flush block, remove water distribution tube and clean out, new water pump (it works well), good t/stat 160, new coolant 25 % Prestone 75 % deionized water, and 1 bottle of redline Water Wetter, timing set at 2 ATDC. My heater siser is in the seized positon of cold, which of course is directing all the hot exhaust to the base of the carb, this will be fixed ASAP. When the outside ambient temps are around 65 and over, and driving on the highway at 50 plus mph, the engine will rise up to the 200 range,in a short time, few miles, I usually pullover, never let her boil over. It never does this at cooler temps 60 and lower. The bottom rad hoses are in great shape, the rad is a honey comb, but has good flow,was boled out once, it will empty in 10 to 15 seconds in a flow test. Will the heatriser if it is running hot exhaust through the intake help this engine overheat on wrm to hot summer days. No brakes are dragging, the engine runs great at highway speed. Any ideas, what point am I missing on solving this problem................Thanx Fred

Hi, thanx for trying, on Christmas day, I got the drivers doorlatch assembly out, replaced with one from the parts car, presto, lock that works, will need to do same for passenger door................Thanx Fred

Hi Ed, the doors unfortunately do not lock from the inside, either the locks are stuck, it is a little piece of metal with a lip on one end that slides down and prevents the door from being opened, it is engaged by either the keys or the inside handle, it does not work in either case. The lock cyls work fine, infact are working good, and move in either direction through there range of motion, but something in the lock mechanism is not engaging or is broken or not there. I have to get these locks out to corect the situation. One door the handle has a stripped head on one screw, the other, the screw that holds the lock mechanism has it's head sheared off. So I need to get these screws out, in order to fix the locks. I have tried unsuccesfully to drill them out, the steel used in these screws must be very hard, cause my regular high speed steel bits, did diddly squat on them, any suggestions...........Fred<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: edalfa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm assuming that you verified that the shafts turn with the key so your problem is likely in the latch (or the fit of the shaft into the latch). Can you lock the doors from the inside and have them stay locked? Ed </div></div>

The guy was great, he even gave me a free blank for my current ignition switch (late 50s mopar), I had to have it cut at another shop as he did not want to cut steel keys in his shop. His original quote was $20 per cylinder, keys he said he has no use for, but he said just give me $25 cash and were sqaure, plus he gave me some white lubricant for the lock mechanisms...........Fred ps I am also a fellow Canadian in the Winnipeg area

Hi all, picked up my door locks, and trunk lock assembly, they are now keyed to the same key. As I did not have keys before, the locksmith started from scratch and made keys, and keyed the trunk lock to the door locks, which I will eventually get an Igntion switch and key it to these locks, everything will be on 1 key. Right now it's a 2 key set-up, as my ignition switch is from a later model. The guy at the shop charged me only $25 cash, for the job, he also had key blanks and he cut me 2, included in the price. Installed everything, the trunk lock works great, the door locks turn as they should, but do not keep the doors locked, they will still open. Has anyone had this experience, is there something wrong inside the doors in the lock mechanism, any idea how to fix this, I want to be able to lock the doors..................Thanx Fred