Oldsfan

Shop manual sez: Remove R.H. molding Remove 2 screws attaching clock Reach up through opening in top of glove box and lower clock into glove box Disconnect wiring from clock and remove I already know what you're going to ask... To remove the R.H molding: Center right and left air deflectors, then remove the two attaching screws through the louvers in the deflectors. Grasp molding on inboard side of louvers and pull outward to disengage studs from retaining clips If Comfortron equipped, before completely removing molding disconnect in-car sensor and aspirator hose at molding Paul

I am directing this mainly at rocketraider, who seems pretty knowledgable on data plates (with their little punched-out stars and such...), but someone else may know, too. Got a call today from a fella with what sounds like a real nice '67 Supreme coupe. 60k miles. Triple black. A/C. Power windows. Needs an engine rebuild. He wants to decode all kinds of numbers to see how nuts he wants to get. There is an "E" on the right side of the data plate, on the same line as the build date. Any ideas what that is for? This is a Framingham built car. Also, there is a C on the end of the trim code - 980-C. What's the C for? My '83 parts book shows letters, but no C. There is an A for conventional bench seat (as opposed to Strato-bench). I'm thinking maybe they used a C for conventional instead of an A? Paul

A dealer invoice from the factory to the dealer, or from the dealer to the retail customer? I have one from the dealer to a retail customer - what I would call a bill of sale. Paul

That is the hydro-electric motor for the power windows/seat/convertible top.

Yup, those are the wheels. I think yours is only second one I've seen with them. "Our" car had whitewalls. Wish I knew where it was at. Paul

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">do you know where i can get a new gasket for my moonroof? it's starting to leak <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> Still available from GM. Part number 20062590. Sells for around $110. Plenty of stock available. Paul

I forwarded this to a buddy of mine who does not frequent these forums. He would like to see pictures. Paul

1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic and Classic Brougham production was combined at 27.678. In 1987 these models were broken out separately and Brougham production was about 40%. I do not believe the Broughams were available with buckets. I remember 2 '87s that we had on the lot at the time. One was a "light red" coupe. That one was stolen - twice. And there was a silver over black coupe that a co-workers mother bought. We got in an '88 that was one of the sharpest cars I've ever seen. It was white with a maroon landau top and maroon bucket interior. It had crosslace aluminum wheels on it. I beleive they were pretty rare, not as common as the super stock wheels or wire wheel covers that most of them had. We sold that car to a local doctor and he used it sparingly. I kept my eye on that car for years, wanting to buy it when trade-in time came. Finally, late in 1991, that day came, and that car was re-sold and delivered within an hour of being traded. I never had a chance. And I lost track of it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Paul

You're talking about a rwd Supreme Classic? They are scarce. We didn't get many of them in when they were new. They were only in production for a few months, then production switched over to the fwd platform. I probably have production numbers at home. Paul

In regards to standard steel wheels: '41 thru '56 cars used a 15" x 5.5" wheel (except for some pre-war cars which had 15" wheels). These wheels used what the parts book calls a "snap in type" hub cap retainer (3 per wheel). This retainer was also used on the 14" x 6" wheels shared by '57s and '58s, which are a different part number than the 14" x 6" wheels used from '59 thru '62 (which have the nubs that you referred to previously). That snap-in-type retainer was also used for optional 15" x 6" wheels available on '62s and '63s. So, nubs and no slots = '59 or newer wheel (except 15"). Slots or presence of snap in retainers = '58 or prior wheel (or '62-'63 15" wheel). Now, if a car came from the factory with, say, deluxe spinner wheel covers, those snap-in-type retrainers would not have been required (and in fact may have been in the way) and may not have even been installed. Everybody clear on that? Now, Glenn, I am aware of the availability of those aluminum wheel covers, but don't know much about them. I've seen them but never looked at them closely. I always thought they were held to the wheel with the lug nuts (like earlier Mimetic wire hubcaps) and that the difference in wheel usage was to allow far a deeper rim for the cap to ride in. So I guess I learned something new today. Paul

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Paul?</div></div> Yes????? My parts book sez all 15 inch Olds rims are the same from '41 thru '56. And the '52 that I had had the 3 slots with the bolted on clips to hold the dog dishes on. More than that I'll have to look up. They went to 14" for '57? Will have to check the application of the clips. Paul

As far as I know those 394 adapters work, because it is basically the same block. I have one, but it's not out of the parts car yet. Paul

My '63 parts book list one filler pipe o-ring seal - for '56 Model O Hydramatics (2nd type). Same number is also used for '61 thru '63 F-85 Hydramatics. So it looks like your '54 doesn't use one. Paul

I'll dig out my old parts book and look into this. I need to check something for Joe anyway... Paul

My vote is for '67 or '68 Buick Wildcat. Paul

Cruise control was first available on Oldsmobiles in 1962. But you should check into an Autronic Eye. Paul

When I had my '72, I converted the single exhaust over to duals using Walker Super Turbo Mufflers and pipes. It sounded nice and wasn't too loud. At the time the blockoff plate for the crossover was still available. It has since been discontinued. Paul

I tried autocolorlibrary.com, but didn't come up with a 147 for 1941. Paul

I used to have a NOS passenger fender skirt for a '67 98. Sold it on eBay to a skirt dealer in Texas. That was many moons ago. I think it was this place: http://www.bigjims.net/ Have you tried them? Paul

These are available from a place in Wisconsin called VPI. GM sells their obsolete stock to VPI. VPI will sell to the public. Part numbers are 10163515 for "Custom" and 10135725 for "Cruiser". These have been in VPIs hands for a while and I have no pricing, you'll have to contact them. http://www.vintageparts.org/partlocator.cfm Paul

I don't know how you made out, but I researched and found that Oldsmobile compressor brackets have different part numbers for EVERY YEAR! But I still don't see why you wouldn't be able to use '62 brackets on a '57 block. In service, they used to replace the old big 5 cylinder compressors with the A6 and offered an mounting packages for '59, '60 and '61 and a harness kit for '58. Paul

Mid to late 60s, early 70s. Oldsmobile started using that logo in '64. Paul

The Auroras are nice cars. They seem to be relatively trouble free in service. Some of those 3.5/4.0 motor were known to be oil leakers due the block design. That can be expensive to repair. I don't know of any head gasket issues. Don't know what to tell you about value/collectibility. Right now it's just a used car, Final 500 or not. And an orphan to boot. We had Aleros we couldn't give away. Finally sent them back to GM. Paul

Well, a 371 and a 394 are basically the same. I guess what we need to figure out is if the stock compressor bracketS from a '57 371 are the same as a '61 394 (because that is the last year they used the big compressor). '62 is when they went to the A6. If '61 brackets are the same as '57, then '62-up A6 brackets shouldn't be a problem. Paul

Part #22511078. Still available from your friendly GM dealer. $138.36. Plenty of stock in the Lansing wareshouse. Paul