Oldsfan
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Posts posted by Oldsfan
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Drat!
I mean... I don't know you mean...
Paul
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Hey all,
My buddy, 61Oldsguy, is out of commission for a few days while recovering from some surgery.
He really enjoys these forums. Let's all wish him well and welcome him back after his time away.
Sorry bud, hope this doesn't embarrass you.
<span style="font-size: 20pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">Welcome back!</span></span>
Paul
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Just a quick note to the forum members who are Veterans - I'm sure there are a bunch of you. <span style="font-weight: bold">Thank you!</span> It is because of your service that we have the freedom to enjoy our cars and these forums and I, for one, am grateful to you.
They didn't have a "salute" icon, so I gave you all a "thumbs up".
Paul
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Steve, was there any discussion as to the possibility of it ever becoming legal to run YOM plates? Or why they are so opposed to it?
Paul
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I don't know why PENNDOT fights these plates so. ALL of the states surrounding us allow them, and you'd think PENNDOT would want the additional revenue it would generate (and I beleive it would generate a lot!). I mean, after all, this is the state that allows the Flagship Niagara plates which can't even been read. If the surrounding states can devise a system for the use of YOM plates, PENNDOT should be able to.
Regarding the current YOM legislation referred to above, I believe this relates to the use of YOM plates on the FRONT for display purposes. I was told in the early 90s that YOM plates displayed on the front were actually illegal, although it was common practice. I think the 2005 ruling made it legal for YOM plates to be displayed on the front.
Paul
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I was at a show the other week and there was a '59 Corvette there with an original '59 PA license plate on the back. My buddy asked how that guy was getting away with it. His dad said it was recently made legal to run Year of Manufacture plates on the back in PA. I hadn't heard that. I've been waiting for years to run a Y-O-M plate on my car. Can anyone confirm this?
Paul
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Here is a link to a small list of dealer codes. This is the only list that I know of. Unfortunately your code is not on it. I don't know how you would find that information.
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofmsc.htm#MISC%20Dealer%20Codes
Oldsmobile Zone offices and Pontiac Zone offices seem to have covered the same territory. I used to work for a Pontiac/Olds dealership. Our Pontiac dealer code was 03-167 and our Olds dealer code was 03-251 - funny how I can remember that after all these years but still have trouble remembering the Chevrolet dealer code I'm at now.
By looking at the following Pontiac site, Zone 10 was the Chicago zone. My first thought was to contact the Zone Office - then I remembered there are no longer any Oldsmobile Zone Offices.
http://ultimategto.com/art18.htm
Paul
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Nice. Makes me feel real good about legitimately answering your question in one of the other forums.
I'll think twice next time.
Thanks
Just to clue everyone else in, the answer was - Olds called it green. That was not meant to be a smartass answer, if that is how you viewed it. It was meant to be a fact. That was what Olds called it in the engine chart in the front of the shop manuals. It is a lighter green than the dark green that was used on the early Rocket engines, which is readily available. Fusick does not carry this lighter green, nor does Bill Hirsch. There is no known vendor (at least to me) for this shade of green at this time. Most of the 394 Oldses of this era that are being restored are 98s and Starfires and they used a red which was also used on the 425s up until the late 60s. I guess its not cost feasible for someone to formulate the light green due to the low demand.
I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help.
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The '60 Chevy trunk lid emblem is the cross-flags over a V. The cross-flags emblem [catalog] # is 3767507, and the V ornament is 3767503. 3767501 is still the trunk emblem for an 8 cylinder '56.
Paul
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dales90</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow, what a car.
Ok, can anyone tell me if the black cylinder, up and outboard from the A/C, is part of a factory auto-level system? Don't see it listed on the sticker options, and my 71 Riv had a silver cylinder for the purpose.
If so, this is one unique wagon. Always loved the clamshell rears..........
</div></div>
Isn't that an a/c muffler?
Paul
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In '61 and '62 they used Bendix or Moraine brake systems. These just both happen to have the same systems. The one on my '62 is different from these, and probably like yours. I've got a much smaller lid that looks more like a wing nut. Boosters are different, too.
Paul
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hddennis</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can any of you Chevy guys look this number up and tell me what it fits? #3767502 Thanks, Howard Dennis </div></div>
Is this a known good part number? Or the casting number off of the back of the part? The closest I was able to come is an illustration from the '74 printing of the pre-'64 catalog. I found a 3767501 (502 may be the casting number for this part). 501 is the rear emblem for '56 8 cylinder cars.
Paul
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The entry level '61, I'm assuming you're referring to full size cars, would have been the Biscayne - available as either a 2-door or 4-door sedan. I no longer have a '61 sales brochure, but something tells me there was a really inexpensive Biscayne Fleetleader, or something to that effect, available. Any of these would have most likely been a straight six with a manual trans, no power steering or brakes, rubber floor mats instead of carpeting. On some of these cars ever the door armrests were optional. They were bare bones. I have no pricing at hand right now.
Paul
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 61Oldsguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm uncertain if all '61 Starfires were Lansing-built. If they were, this car falls close to the halfway point in production, as about 7600 were built in total.</div></div>
Here's something interesting I learned today regarding '61 Starfire production:
Paul
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Oldsmobile offered three radios in the full sized cars in '65 - the standard pushbutton "Deluxe" AM radio, the signal seeking "Super Deluxe" (Wonderbar) AM radio, and an AM/FM radio. Bi-Phonic rear speaker control was an option on all three. There was also an optional reverberator that added a concert hall echo effect. Stereo (multiplex) was not available until '67.
I do not believe a Cutlass or F-85 radio will fit, but I do believe a radio from a '66 full size car will interchange - they had the same offerings. Not only do you need to be concerned with faceplate opening size and shaft width, but you also need to be concerned with the dimensions of the radio case itself and placement of such items as heat sinks, antenna jacks and power connections.
Paul
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The eBay auction in question, part number #7301890, is for is for '67 & '68 (and probably '69 & '70 - can't verify it) Toronados with Comfortron. This is the resistor on the servo. This resistor will not work with a manual control A/C car. The part number for '65 to '70 manual a/c cars, except F-85s, is 387519, which was discontinued in November of '87, but is available from:
CHICAGO AUTO PARTS
BOLINGBROOK, IL 60440 (630) 771-0497
SOUTHSIDE AUTOMOTIVE
MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55417 (612) 727-2404
COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY.COM
OROVILLE, WA 98844 (800) 414-4462
LLEWELYN OBSOLETE GM PARTS
NORTHRIDGE, CA 91326 (818) 363-5094
Knock yourself out.
Paul
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That resistor up on eBay says "Auto a/c" which means Comfortron to me. I don't have a book here to check the application. Won't be able to get at my parts book until tomorrow.
I, too, used to be afraid of Comforton equipped cars. Never wanted one due to all the horror stories I have heard. Then I bought my '67 98 and it had it. It always worked good. I had trouble with it twice. The first time the heater control valve was bad. The second time, we had knocked the vacuum plug out while working on the fender. Other than those two incidents, I had no problem with it.
Then I bought a '67 Toro with Comfortron. It was DOA, but I wasn't even afraid of that one. That one turned out to be a loose wire on the control head. After that was repaired, I had no trouble with that one either.
So, bring on the Comfortron demons!
Paul
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I guess we should ask...
Is this a pushbutton system, or a Comfortron system?
Paul
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Does anyone remember when the car show used to be around the stadium? Show cars used to enter at the Hersheypark sign and almost immediately entered a fenced-off "parade lane" with no pedestrian or swap meet traffic, went past Chocolate World, looped down around the bottom at the old arena, then entered the "main drag" before hanging a left and entering the show field. Not only was that a good route, but it made for a great parade! When the show was over, traffic exited via that "main drag" and was directed out onto Hersheypark Drive, where it was easy to get to whichever route you needed to go home, instead of being directed in towards town. There were facilities under the stadium and always food nearby. There never seemed to be a problem with that setup. We never heard complaints the way we have the past few years. Rain, mud or dust weren't issues. You got a standard sized parking space for each car. Exit routing was simple. That has all changed. Why? Because HERCO changed the landscape? OK, its their land, they're allowed to do that - so let's deal with it. Put the showcars back on that asphalt around the stadium. To enter the showfield, bring them in the way they used to exit - on the "main drag" behind the stadium. Let them hang a right at the end of the stadium to enter the showfield, or, if a longer parade lane is needed, let them swing down around the old arena and past Chocolate World and then bring them in the lower end. Exiting the field would be the same as it had been in past years. There - we fixed that problem.
But what about all that empty space during the week? The reply to that would be - parking. Remember what they used to do during the week when the show was at the stadium? That's right, they had paid spectator day parking on that lot. This space could also be used for show worker parking, eliminating the spaces taken up in the swap meet fields by show worker vehicles. When I am in the swap meet, I want to be looking at items for sale, not workers daily drivers, like the sea of them in the Chocolate field.
Now, what about all those displaced Red Field vendors? Well, some of them can be put in the fields where the worker parking has been eliminted. The remainder can be put over on the golf course. But don't force anyone to unwillingly go over there - give them a choice, and an incentive. Rent those spaces at 1/2 price for the inconveniences of being on the grass (which some people actually like) and for being "so far away." I'm sure there are some, um, "thrifty" swap meet vendors who would take advantage of those 1/2 price spaces. Remember when the swap meet ran from the western edge of the Green Field all the way down to the eastern edge of the Blue Field (where the Turkey Hill is now)? Would it really be any further from the western edge of the golf course all the way down to the stadium? People expect to walk at Hershey. They've got directories. We can find people in the directories, and if they happen to be on the golf course, so be it. If there's a vendor at Hershey and I can find them in the directory, I'm going to see them regardless of where they are at. I don't ever recall saying "I'm not going the whole way over there!" Miles and miles of walking is just part of Hershey. From a revenue standpoint - what would be lost in renting the golf course spaces for 1/2 price would probably more than be made up in spectator day parking fees.
That's enough suggestions for now. We'll leave the car corral and motor homes for another time.
Paul
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Forget what I said. I was confused. See below.
Paul
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Me, the parts guy, scored 82% the first time (84% the 2nd time because I was too dumb to see the answers I got wrong so I had to retake it). My buddy, the mechanic, scored 88%. The other parts guy scored a 56%. I guess we know why he doesn't fix cars...
Paul
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I think compt. is an abbreviation for compartment.
Glenn, that is so cool! You da man! And Mike should be given credit for providing the web site link.
This is exciting!
Paul
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GM part # for the bumper emblem is 230459. Front grille Toronado emblem is 230458. Front grille by Oldsmobile emblem is 230457. Rear Toronado emblem is 7738025. Rear by Oldsmobile emblem is 7736120. All of these numbers are long discontinued with no supercedence history. I could not find any inventory through my sources.
Paul
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Did that. Long discontinued a search of my sources turned up absolutely nothing. These are made of unobtainium.
Paul
Radio / Reverb wiring diagram
in Oldsmobile - Technical
Posted
7289313 is a '65 full size radio, so the fader switch should be right unless it has been changed. What is the number on the radio that was removed? And what is the difference between the faders?
A shop manual will show the reverb wiring, but probably not in detail. At the risk of being simplistic, the front speaker lead is part of the wide plug that plugs into the back of the radio. This plug also includes power and radio ground. The front speaker is grounded to the instrument panel by the bracket. The blue wire coming out of the side (or the back by itself) is the rear lead and will run back along the sill into the trunk and will plug into the reverb unit. There should be a wire from the reverb unit to the rear speaker. The rear speaker is grounded similar to the front. I am assuming the reverb unit is grounded by attaching it to the car body, but it may have a separate ground wire. That should be it.
Paul