Oldsfan
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Posts posted by Oldsfan
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Good. Now, hurry up and go and have copies made. Here's another thought I just had. You should be able, for a fee, to request a copy of the factory invoice for your '83 from GM. Used to be the History Center - don't know what it is now. They only have invoices newer than '77 from what I am told. Key codes are on the factory invoice.
Paul
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GM's system for retrieving key codes only goes back to some '89 models. Anything older than that is not available to us. There was a time when GM used to stamp the key codes on the cylinder assemblies. I don't know if they did it in '83 or not. Popping a door or trunk cylinder would give you the code, if that is the case. Of course, the only way to get the ignition code would be to pop that cylinder as well, which you are trying to avoid. Is there a build sheet? I've got build sheets from a '77 and an '81. Both have places for key codes, but they're both blank. The '77 was found under the rear seat cushion of a Supreme. The '81 was found above the headliner of a Toronado.
Paul
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Bucket seats with a column shifter and no console were a possibility. If a console was ordered, it included a floor shifter. Consoles were not available without floor shifters.
Paul
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"No radio", to me, means the radio is missing and there is a big gaping hole in the dash where it belongs. "Radio delete" tells me that the car is equipped with a radio delete plate and has no antenna. You'd better stick to global warming...
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98 coupes were in the side panel. I would think 88s would be, too.
Paul
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These cars have aluminum engines. They used to have a chemical reaction between the coolant, the aluminum and the copper in the radiator/heater core. The cooling systems used to get blocked up. So you'll always want to keep an eye on the cooling system and make sure it's flushed regularly.
Paul
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Horsepower rating of the HC 2bbl 330 was 225. It was the standard engine in the Jetstar 88, and wasn't offered in any other models. The optional Jetstar 88 motor was a 260 horse 4bbl.
Paul
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Option U-3, Electric front door window lifts, was a $49.50 option on the 98 4-door sedan and all 88 and Super 88 models, except 2-door sedans. Option U-4, Electric 4-window lifts, was a $96.80 option with the same model availability as above. 98 Holidays and Starfire convertibles came with standard electric 4-window lifts.
Paul
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Doubt it. I don't think anything in the engine number corresponds to anything with the VIN. I think the engine number is just a production serial number.
Paul
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2-window and 4-window power windows were both options. Might depend on the body style. Saw one at the Nationals that only had power front windows. I think it was a Holiday Coupe.
Paul
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I gave Helen Early a VIN for my '62 a few years ago. She sent a packet, no charge. It included a booklet listing parts vendors, some photocopies of sales materials and a letter including production numbers. Newer cars (post '77?) might include a copy of the factory invoice showing optional equipment and the original selling dealer.
There's not much to a '54 VIN. It'll tell you it's a '54 and whether it's an 88 or a 98, which plant it came out of and the build sequence number.
Paul
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Hmmmm...
That's odd. Sounds like maybe either the hoses aren't hooked up to the controls correctly, or the control or one of the actuators is bad. Normal and Recirc should both actuate the same stuff, with the exception of Recirc triggering the outside air door actuator. Sounds like it might be time to get the vacuum pump out and make sure things are actuating properly. And that the hoses are connected correctly. If all that is well, then I think you're looking at a faulty control panel.
Paul
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Some. Still have trouble getting it to kick down. Really have to slam it to the floor. But I've got other problems, too. Vacuum advance died. When we went to change that we noticed the ground wire was shot. So at that point we just ripped out the whole thing and changed over to Pertronix. But we haven't got the timing squared away yet. We set it to the balancer, but we don't know that the balancer hasn't turned. So we've got to set the timing by ear. Once we get that squared away, then I can start fooling with linkage adjustments again. Right now it's not running well enough to know how the trans is really operating.
Paul
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Judges dock for lack of T3 bulbs. I'm sure they would also dock for incorrect T3 bulb usage, if they in fact know which bulbs are correct for what years.
I think there was an article on T3 bulb usage in a JWO article a while back. I'd have to dig for it. It would take me some time. But it started in '57 and ran up through '72, I think. I know my '62 and my former '67s used the same (or similar) bulbs with the T3 in the triangle. I seem to recall my '72 have the non-triangle T3s. But I also seem to recall something about the patterns of the lines in the lense being different. I'll try to look for the article.
Paul
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I have not used the USA kit. I have seen NOS parts to repair the valve show up on eBay from time to time.
But here's what I did - Old Air Products in Texas offers a kit to bypass this valve. You need to pull the vacuum hose off the diaphragm and plug it up. Then I think that long spring comes out. And finally, you take the valve apart, remove the guts and seal it back up. This allows the freon to flow freely, but the valve is no longer functional. They supply you with a compressor cycling switch which is connected to a capillary tube. You clamp the tube (filled with carbon dioxide) to the evaporator core outlet fitting. The tube senses the evaporator temperature and cycles the compressor clutch as necessary to keep the system from freezing up. The drawback to this arrangement is that you have no temperature control, but I don't think you have that much temperature control with the stock setup. I did this to my '62 Starfire and my a/c has two settings - off and 40 degrees. But I've been told that if I had a functioning STV valve, I would only have a few degrees of adjustment anyway. Maybe 40 to 45. True a/c temperature control didn't come about until '64 when the started blending the heater in and you could warm the a/c air up if if got too cold.
My cycling switch worked good last year. My system developed a leak and I knew it because the compressor was cycling quite a bit. This year we fixed the leak. But now the evaporator seems to be freezing up, which actually inhibits cooling. I don't know if the cycling switch went bad, or if I need to insulate the capillary tube from underhood temperatures.
Paul
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As far as the trans fluid, I just serviced mine and used Dexron III. I believe these units originally took Type A fluid. I guess that's still available if you look for it.
Regarding the radio, it is my experience that the dial does not light up unless the radio is turned on. The dial lamp gets it's power from the radio feed, not the instrument lamp feed. This was the case into the late '60s or early '70s.
'63 still had separate heater and a/c systems (they used one control panel, but the air didn't "blend" - at least I think so. Blending didn't occur until '64). If you've got the a/c on at all, it should only be coming from the dash vents. And if you're running the heater, it should only be coming out of the floor or defroster vents. As far as stronger in normal or recirc - I've been told this is an illusion. The blower is still pulling the same amount of air and introducing it into the cabin. We perceive recirc to blow stronger because, for one thing, it is opening up an interior air return to the blower and we hear the blower motor louder than when this return is closed to get all outside air, and, for another thing, it is recirculating the already air conditioned air, instead of the hot outside air, so it comes into the cabin a little colder. With these two things we perceive recirc to be blowing stronger, but blower speed/air velocity don't change. If anything, normal might blow stronger (while moving) because outside air is being forced into the blower, where with the recirc the blower is pulling inside air. Hope that all made sense.
Paul
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I think you can. '59s/'60s used 371s and 394s both with the Jetaway trans. '61 thru '64 used the same 394 motor with the Slim Jim. So you should be able to bolt a Jetaway to a '62 motor.
Paul
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I don't have one currently, but I used to have a '52 98 sedan. I've never heard of a Deluxe with a 10 inch extension on the "standard" 98 models. All 98s should be the same length and have the same wheelbase, although I don't have that information in front of me at the moment. Now, 98s being 10 inches longer than 88s sounds more like it. Unless your 98 has a continental kit, which I don't think was a factory accessory. I believe the Deluxe designation means that your car has all-hydraulic controls (windows and seat, and top on convertibles).
Paul
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As it was, we went to Carlisle All-GM this past weekend.</div></div>
You did? I didn't see you. 'Course the Starfire sprung a radiator leak Friday night, so my buddy and I had to go in Dad's Corvette. I wasn't under the tent much. I even thought to myself as we were leaving, "Hey, I didn't see Glenn today".
Paul
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OK. Where's that "bigfoot98" guy and his adjusting tool? I followed the directions from the previous topic, using a home-made 6 inch rod fashioned from a wire hanger. I sure hope this works. I have no way of testing it yet, as I had to remove the radiator to send it out for repair.
The reason for my concern is that I have the lower rod run down as far as it will go. There is no way I can shorten it any further, unless I remove the jamb nut completely. That would give me a couple of extra threads. That doesn't seem right.
I'm also having trouble adjusting the bellcrank. I've got more than .005 clearance. And if I keep adjusting, it starts moving the carburetor linkage instead instead of the bellcrank. I think the problem is that the lower rod, which I now can't shorten, it still too long and isn't letting the bellcrank land on it's stop. Which leads me to believe that the TV valve arm is too far forward.
I'm beginning to wish I had left the linkage alone.
Comments...
Suggestions...
Anyone else try this trick with any luck?
Paul
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For those interested, there is a gentleman in Ontario who is currently reproducing these panels. $2500/set. With or without holes for the bead moldings. I haven't seen them in person, but he had a sample at the Olds Homecoming last weekend and I've been told they are impressive looking. '61 and '63 to be available in the future.
Paul Hartlieb
Cirrus Blue '62 Starfire Coupe
Tire question
in Oldsmobile - Technical
Posted
I would put radials on that Toro in a heartbeat. But I think in '70 they had those triple stripe whitewalls - and I don't think you're gonna find those in a radial. You should check Coker Tire. I think they offer reproduction triple whitewalls if you're interested in sticking with originality.
Paul