Ron42Dodge

It is easy not to notice, until you see a complete one. My first 42 Dodge came with a broken tail and I did not notice it for a while. It looks right except the end is barely open. Now I have about 3 spares. My polishing rag constently gets caught under that darn tail. People are still interested in the 42 ornaments, even if they are broken. Just not near for what you originally hoped to get. Is that one painted or bare metal?

Good news, bad news. Yes this is a 1942 Dodge Hood Ornament. Could be a blackout but the finish looks a little funny, like it has been stripped. :confused: Could be worn paint. The bad news is it is broken. It is missing about 2-3 inches of the tail. I have attached a picture of a chrome and blackout hood ornament that are full length, from my Motortopia page. There is a minature change in depth about 3" from the back end where the ornament started to overlap the hood hinge. These like to break off around there. I don't have mine in front of me to give you the total length these should be. Nice piece otherwise. Ron

I'm not sure if this would be a factor or not but isn't the Neutral safety switch part of the 6 volt package, that would prevent the car from starting? I don't own a 53 or have a book for a 53, but I rescued some components yesterday off a 51 donor before it went to te crusher. The same harness going to the Solenoid included 2 wires to the Neutral safety switch. If I recall right, if that doesn't work, nothing starts. My 42 doesn't have one so I'm guessing.

So I have seen both the full plastic rear windows and I have seen the 8" x 30" Chrome frame style on 1950 - 1954 Mopars. But what I would like to know, which one was the standard and which one was the option or how did that work? The 40's Mopars mostly had the chrome frame because the full plastic windows were not yet available. So it would seem logical that the New inovation (the larger plastic window) would be an option. But I don't really know. Does anybody have a knowledge on this? It seems that this desicion would need to be done at the factory.

Did you ever get those parts identified?

Don, Sorry I missed all these conversations. Looks like you got some good advised. Do you have good pressure with all your brakes? If there is air in the front lines. the switch may not work right, but if you are driving the car and stopping good, that would not likely be it. Your brake wire should run up over the drivers door and then back down into the trunk. If the wire is original, it could be cracked and shorting out when you push the brake pedal. Might look at wire support clips or where the wire leaves the car body and enters to the trunk lid near the spring hinge. Look for breaks in the insulation. Ron

Welcome Don. How are things going on the Coupe?

Bill, I find this quest of yours very interesting. As an owner of two 1942 cars, I find documention during this time to be weak. It wasn't the priority. Dodge managed to produce around 67,377 cars for 1942 before switching over production. This is less than 1/3 the number for the year before (236,999 1941 Dodges produced). Keep in mind the new 42 models were introduced to the public around Oct of 1941. That's roughly 13,600 per month, or roughly 27,000 after Pearl Harbor. As the manufacturer's switched over to wartime production, they were allowed to finish assembling cars from componetnts that were already produced. But many of those late production cars were tied up by the government. Cars, tires, gas were all rationed. You had to prove you needed the car. As I understand, trucks of all sizes were still produced through the war because they were a necessity for transportaion and production of goods. I will look through my books to see if i have anything to add to your quest. Ron

Sharon, The right Tail Light Door Assmbly is 975490 and the left is 975491 for models up to serial number 30621690 (chrome version). Above that serial number 42 Dodge Blackout models used 967040 (rt) and 967041 (lt)(painted). They were the same piece just chrome vs paint. The rear of the car body flares slightly wider as you go up so it is easy to confuse right and left. I will attach a picture to help. Ron

I also agree, 42 Dodge cars only. I can get you a part number if you want it. Ron

Dynaflash8, I will slightly disagree with you. Frankly I think the mid to late thirties cars are some of the classiest looking cars, unless the grill and trim are painted. (Got to love the chrome.) What I am seeing is the hobbiests are finding they would rather drive the newer, more reliable car, maybe with air conditioning, rather than taking the challange and driving something old. That is why we see less of the old stuff anymore. To much work. It's no more work than it was five years ago, we're just getting older. I admire anyone that takes the old iron out to the shows. What I usually see is young kids and older adults like to look at the old stuff. Now teens and twenties love the muscle and who can blame them. There is interest at all levels and all ages. There is a tendancy to like to restore what you learned to drive with, or something the year you were born. Because of that, as each day passes the cars at shows get newer. But that shouldn't mean the teens 20s, 30s, 40s will need to get scraped because nobody cares. Quite the opposite. Frankly it is hard to imagine that many of todays cars will be around for the next generation to restore. The trick may be to get this generation interested in the old stuff. Create memories for them in these cars by taking them for a drive, in a parade, to a car show or as some are doing, crossing the country with a grandson or daughter. Build a pioneer passion in them. Those that grew up with the progression of the automobile from a motorised carriage, to an all steel car to almost all plastic are mostly gone now. In their day you carried tools and clothing anticipating a breakdown, and you could fix or improvise most problems. These talents and abilities to meet the challange were passed down to you and now we need to pass them down to the next generation. The schools certainly aren't pushing hands on type work. But there is nothing more rewarding than dragging an old car that hasn't been driven for 30 years, restoring it, and then have someone spend a few minutes admiring it. The best thing you can do to display an old car is to accessorise it. Trinkets that tell people what was important in life at the time. If you can take them back in time, they will get more of an appreciation of what life was like at that time. They don't understand that cars didn't come standard with turn signals, radios, electric wipers, etc, unless you tell them. A little history can go a long way in an old car display. I didn't mean to go on this long. Bottom line, keep bringing the old stuff out. Otherwise you are caving into your age. (Challange intended)

I will try an add a picture showing the front, side and rear of the radiator. I have tried to add some dimensions too. The dimensions are approximate since I only had a yard stick handy. Thanks for any help. Ron

It is hard to accept the fact we are getting old. We live in denial when the cars we grew up with are now antiques, and we want to argue. Trimacar recalled that in 1964 only pre WW2 cars were considered antiques. If I do the math correct, that makes those 1942 cars only 22 years old back in 64. Has anything really changed? I say enjoy the hobby, no matter what age car, trips your trigger.

I have a radiator that was found stuffed up in the attic of an old repair garage. It appears to have never been used, as it has what is left of the parts tag still attached, and the manufactures protective coating is still on it. It has a part number of #897450 which shows up in my search as a Recore, with no years or models indicated. My best hint is I've found #897449 is noted as a new Radiator possibly fitting Plymouth 40-48. I might conclude 897449 was new and 897450 was a recore of the same thing. I would rather not guess. Does anyone have any better information on this? Ron

Attached is an inside picture of a 4 door window frame.

Errol, It is nice to hear from you. I wish we lived closer. I am located in Omaha. What year is your coupe? There is a beautiful 59 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer in your neck of the woods (Chadron). The owners belong to our Omaha Region of the WPC (Walter P Chrysler) Club, which is a sub chapter of the WPC Club. Wonderful people!! There are a few 40's mopars in our club. Check out our Hemmings web site . http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=omahawpc. One of our Lincoln members has 48 Dodge Town Sedan. I'ld love to see a picture of your car. Have a Happy New Year! Ron

Hi Reg, The hub caps that came with my car were 9" and that is what Roberts Sells. I did pickup 2 - 10" hub caps at some swap meets years ago. I didn't notice the size difference until I got home. But they are definitly not show winners. I have not found any information yet as to what got the 10" vs what got the 9". My first impression is cars got the 9" and trucks got the 10". No solid information to back that up though. My 1942 Dodge parts book says #862968 (D22S)(Deluxe) and #862967 (D22C)(Customs) up to serial number 30636724. After that use #959899 (D22S)(Deluxe)and #959896 (D22C)(Customs). #953820 and #959777 are noted for limos and 7 passenger sedans.the same respective serial number ranges. However my 1936 - 1942 Dodge Parts book indicates #857293 except 7 passenger sedan and limo. Those get #953820. The spare tire gets #867949 except for the convertible, probably because the spare in the convertible sits differently. Then they note D-22S (Deluxe) gets #862968 chrome. My body and sheet metal reference reverses the numbers. # 862967 (D22S) and #862968 (D22C) This book also lists these numbers for 1941 models. I did look up some Factory Photos of a Custom Model clearly has the 10" hubcaps, but then A Deluxe Club Coupe did too. Then a Custom Convertible did too, while another Custom convertible had the 9" Hubcaps. I believe the 1942 Models ended up getting what ever was available. I believe some Custom models were also fitted with Deluxe fenders, shortly before the blackout models showed up. So in summary, I don't have a clue what is correct, but it appears there was suposed to be a difference, but it may have never resulted.

Reg, My car came with slanted lettering hub caps. I have found several discrepancies between the sales brochures and reality. I was told once that the sales brochures were being printed while the designs were being finalized. The Color sales brochure shows the front parking lights slightly different. The red letters on the brake light actually reversed so the background became red. Some of the Renderings of the cars have trim on top of the front fenders. Slanted letter hubcaps can be purchased from Roberts Motor Parts but look them over. The first 4 I bought 4 years ago were great. 3 of the second 4 I just purchased had problems. The replacement 3 are better but I'm going to contact them. They would be great driver hub caps but have flaws visible from 5 feet. Must be a bad batch. A good book to get is the Dodge Passenger Car Master Parts List for 1936 - 1942. Most of the parts illustrated in their are 1942 Parts. It shows slanted lettering on the hub caps too, In addition my Mopar Body and Sheet Metal Quick Reference List 1940-1948 also shows slanted letter hub caps for 1942 Dodge. (see Pic) Ron

You have a good eye. That is a YnZ's harness. I was very pleased with what they made for me. Of interest, I went with them because they listed that they had previously made the back harness for a 42 Dodge. I was parting out a Custom 4 door and I decided I wanted the electric wiper and clock options. Instead of pulling the harness out of my Deluxe 4 door, I pulled the front harness from the Custom parts car. At the last minute I decided to throw in the back harness. It turned out that my back harness did not match the one they made previously so they used both of the harnesses that I sent, because we knew they worked together. Apparently it was not uncommon for the engineers to re-design the wiring routes and methods in mid production. It turned out there was a splice block under the dash that was not part of my Deluxe 4 door and by the time I realised this, I had already disposed of the car. I had to go search one down. I had YnZ put in a unit under the dash that makes all three of my tail lights work as brake lights too. As you probably know the original design had only the center trunk light be the brake light. Todays drivers tend to notice only the outer 2 lights and I kept getting told my brake lights did not work prior to rewiring. For safety reasons I had this rectified. I plan to use them again for my convertible. The only thing I forgot to send them last time was the misc. engine wiring like the electric choke which is not part of a harness but should be replaced. I have been to the P-15 D-24 site several times. It is a fantastic source of information. I don't belong to the forum. I have not looked into what that takes. I've been trying to contact 42 Dodge Owners when I find them and I've been compiling a list of Owners. I try and help when I can. Probably have about 30 - 35 names so far. (no selling of names or spam mail) I helped a few locate parts and a few have helped me get my hands on some. Similar concept to the P-15 D-24 group but they are more organised. I do belong to the WPC Club too. I'm located in Nebraska. Found my first car about 10 miles from home. Only 31,000 miles. I didn't have a clue what I was doing at first. Some local WPC members got me back on track several times. I try and return all those favors by helping others when I can. When it comes to 1942 anything, it is hard to find good information. That my goal, get the information out there. I've met a lot of nice folks on the way. Let me know if you need some other pics of the car for detail. I'll keep looking for the wiring notes. I know that dimmer switch wires to the headlight switch but which connector and route I don't remember. I've got if noted and video recorded so I didn't forget. Talk to you later, Ron

Reg - I went out and looked at my switch tonight. The rotation travel is about 90 degrees. My rotates a little stiff but it does turn. I took a picture of the back of my switch so you can check your wiring. (see pic) I am trying to find my notes on the wiring from when I had it remade. It was not as simplistic as the schematics show. Good luck. Ron

Jon- I have only seen yours and one other that sold on ebay about 1 1/2 years ago but it needed to be restored. (see pic). I found a beautiful blackout hood ornament. Do you know if there several shades of blackout colors? - Ron

Reg, I had a quick thought on your dash lights not working. Just below your speaker grille should be a Dodge emblem. Right and left of that emblem should be a knob. The left one should turn on a map light. the right one controls the brightness of your dash. You may want to try turning that knob to see if that makes a difference. (see Pic)

Reg, Chrysler had come up with a safety speedometer that started out as green up to 30 mph, then to yellow from 30 - 50 mph, and then red for speeds above 50 mph. Also if you have an 801 radio, and you adjust the tone control, the radio dial should change colors. Violet for mello sounds, yellow for the music setting, and Red for voice. I think they did this because the dash lights were not bright enough to read the gauges, so drive by color and sound. Even the owners manual boasts the speedometer numbers were big enough to be easily read in the daytime. What about the night time? Thus color.

Reg, The lens on a 42 dodge speedometer is glass. The clocks were plastic and boy do they yellow. I believe I saw a replacement lens available at Valley Vintage Auto Parts web site but it has been a while since I looked. If you want a temporary fix, get a clear jewel case for any CD. Cut the clear plastic face out of the case to the outer most extremes (don't want the 90 degree sides). This face will be almost a perfect fit for the almost square lens and it is pliable enough to shape itself to the curve. Your speedometer looks to be in good shape still except I wasn't sure if that white square at the bottom was a reflection or missing gold. I've seen so many that have crumbled. Does yours change colors with speed, when your headlights are on? I will watch for a good used one for you. Ron

Reg, Your clock turned out nice. For a while, I had used the face of a CD case as a cover for my clock. Then I traded it out and put a spare speedometer glass in there instead. Shouldn't yellow in the sun like all the plastic lenses did. Do you have photos of the interior trim so you know what you are looking for? If I recall right, that should be a DeLuxe body style and would not have much trim. Let me know if you need a picture of a door panel. Ron