zman

Way too much,You probably should put in new bearings if you have done so I'm assuming that the wiper flange is worn, which can be built up and machined, Zman

Hey Jeffy, I'll bet you dollars to donuts your block is full of junk You should take off the pan and remove all the freeze plugs in the block, that are located on the gasket sealing surfaces,and maybe take off one pump to flush the rust and mud out.No take off all your hoses so you don't plug up your clean radiator. Zman

Rolf B , listen up Jeff! Ok the brake shoes, they should be marked with a "P" for primary and a "S" for secondary, made by either Bendix or Delco, Some of the early ones are possibly Lockheed for the Mechanical 36 to 38 Lincolns. Those large ones are for the Big Lincoln 33-1/2" X 2-1/2" The Z's shoes are 11.95" X 1-3/4" wide for both primary and secondary Ford used the same lenths on both shoes Except originally the primary shoe was moulded and the secondary shoe were Woven If you can find a set for both axles with the woven and moulded linings I'll buy those. Possibly the revited ones are original and maybe marked with yellow/red and black for secondary and just black for primary, The material for those linings are "Ferodo" for Woven, and "Thermoid" for the primary shoes. Zman <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Ok Booth I think the reason is they think your grand father shot "LINCOLN HA! Any way some things you should know about replacing a head light switch, one that matches butter scotch color or any other ford color, that has the button you push for the knob that pulls out just like your Z. You can buy a later 12 volt from any of the flat head ford suppliers it looks the same but a little larger then the Z's It will have the dash reostat in it, which has to be removed because it's made for 12 volt systems,if you don't it shorts out the lights when using it for 6 volts. I hope when you replaced your brake lining you used the original woven lining? Zman

Seems like only one picture went! LOets see if this goes Zman

Ok Diz "the wheel guides, these are hand made, but will have some made on a mill,a person wouldn't think it could be done, as I asked a tire outlet if he would concider the guides and said yes and wanted some that were metric.Of course the price is always asked. Right now I'm thinking below $10 bucks and maybe just above $5 if I can get enough material cheap enough, as the material is grade 8 for strength, I stood on the ones I made, so thats 172 lb's But then there are the fat guy's. Making it cheap enough to put it in your tool box is my goal. Zman

Rolf; I got 2 quotes $72.00 per axle Bonded.which I don't believe is orginal, The Lincoln Lincoln specifies woven for primary shoes and Moulded for secondary shoes riveted.I'm sure you can sell those for 1/2 price. I can get the correct linings with rivets for the same price for both Axles Zman

The cost of putting on new brake lining,is a bit steep from site venders besides they are generally bonded, which is not original <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />for the Licolns. I found after researching where to buy linings both woven and molded including the revits and if you have the tool one can keep your Z with original brake linings Any one interested let me know. Z man

Hey Diz,I'll take some jpg's and put them the site,I've talked to the Auto Zone manager, locally and he indicated much interest in the tool. The Z lug nuts are 1/2 inch NF20,but for some later newer vehicles they are metric.so they would require those. Even the younger folks let alone the Gal's this tool would reduce the hasseling of slipping on any wheel. Zman <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I just rotated the Tire's on my Z and the difficult part was alignment of the wheel lug's and lifting it in place to start the nuts and torque them up, The front drums have one guide but it also is defficient, So I decided to build a tool that would allow me to just slide the wheel on with the least amount of effort, with this tool one can change a wheel even in the dark. I really didn't think much of making this tool when I was younger but, now as age creeps up on one, you look for the easy way of getting things done. I just copy righted the tool today, but made the tool 2 weeks ago. I'm just wondering if members would be interested?

Hey Art my 2 cents worth, sounds like a problem I had,but before you go into the clutch area take a look at the "FAN ASSEMBLY" Possibly the Vibration springs and the phenolic spacers are damaged, As far as the clutch and pressure plate are concerned if some one has put a Non SEMI Centrifical Preesure plate in at it would als cause a vibration. Bill Uhouse Z man

Need to know what kind of press is required to remove the rear brake drums.so I can have them machined! It seems no one has the old fixtures to turn the drums. Any good advice will be appreciated Thanks zman

The pressure plate I installed was a recondition LOng 1. I had purchased two new pressure plates with the plain fingers non adjustable fingers, I made sure the fly wheel was correct.and measured both inaccordance with the Motor's Manual, one was 3/16th's short and one was 1/8th inch short using my height gages. Bill

It's called a "LONG[1]model CF",after trying to find the reason for requiring to extend the clutch turn buckle on my 1940 Lincon Zephyr, I found the reason in the 1936 to 1942 Motors Repair manual on Clutches page 171 that requires the use of the "Long [1] model CF pressue plate" and provides the specifications for the "LEVER SETTINGS" which is 2 inches for Lincoln Zephyr's 1936 t0 1940,by using an pressure plate that does not have adjustable levers the travel of the throw out bearing is reduced by 1/4 of an inch requiring extending the TURN BUCKLE.Even if one does that the clutch arm will bump against the bell housing, and limit shifting gears. Zman [bill Uhouse] My Z only has 19 K miles on the running gear and no wear on moving parts

Hi again Berger, the only info on Lincoln springs is in the SERVICE BULLETIN MANUAL and whats in the Illustration MANUAL FOR lINCOLN ZEPHYRS,thru 1948, All of the design Characteristic's is the same as Ford's on what I have researched on Ford front and rear springs. Of course the Lincoln springs are larger in most cases and some pickup springers are the same. Z man

Hey Birger, How many leaf's in your front spring, I belive you should have 13.possibly if the front has 11 your hanging low and need to add 2. Maybe a few leaf's are broken Z man

Hey Guy's thanks a bunch , i did buy a wiring harness from them, but didn't know about the seals Z mzn

Need to replace my vent window seals, can't find out who makes them any info would be appreciated Z man

Ok I'm sure some one has already tried the Ethenal grade fuel in thier lincoln's What I understand is that the fuel line hoses must be replaced, but wondered about the carb,since it's pot metal. I read where Henery Ford's model T's were designed to run on Ethenal and all his fuel components were steel Any Coments Please Zman

I wondered about a restrictor in the Zephyr engine oil return line, the line is original from what I can tell, and the inlet line from the oil boss has a coil about 2/1/2 turns going to the filter, the 5/16 return line is reduced to 1/4 inch where it enters the block above the oil pan, it has no retricting orifice that I am aware of!. What has been the practice for restricting the oil flow from the filter? Zman

Hey Mat I bought Firestones for my 40 Z , Had Cokers and the white walls were not perfect like the firestones,So I put the Cokers on my truck zman

The flathead is a 50 8RT I got it hooked up to a 40 merc transmission so it will fit that Z transmission, The hood is off and is in good condition, but don't need to put it on until the rest of the body is welded back on. It was cut off just above the sill from the back of the front door posts,The floors are real good including the trunk floor. My body man is good and a good welder, but I'm sure that I'll be pestering him on every move to make sure it will be put back like it was. The 8RT has a center front mount so a cross member will be best, and can be easily removed. Thank for the input zman

Hey Connie nice car, i'm sure you will like the chrome bars inside, i have a 37 that some farm hand tried to make a pick out of it,less the engine, but the running gear is intack,surprising hardly any rust. I do have a question and would lke to know what year flat head V/8 is installed. I do have a good spare flathead ford engine and would like to install it so I can temporaely run the car for body restoration.Need to know what type motor mounts where used for that type installation? I do have a 40 Z also with only 18K on it. Zman