zman

I agree with Peecher except for one item which are the valves,The Flat head ford valves for some years are not rotaetable, meaning they are keyed in one position and do not rotate like the orginal Lincoln valve assmblies. If you could stay with the V 12 type E Brown has them.Possibly the valves in your engine maybe salvageable. Zman

Ok how about a BENT WHEEL those will make it bounce. Jack it up and check run out. Z man

Te New Speedway Motors Catalog is now selling the 38 and 39 Lincoln Zephyr tail lights the pair price is $139 bucks, They also provide flat head V/8 parts that interchange with the V-12. Zman

Hey Guy's it sems that the old classic car neets this year are mixed up with later 60;s, 70's and later modified hunks of junk, most out of say 150 cars all types probably 5 to 10 are older then 1950. Of course my "Z" stands out and win's but the competion is lost ha! Z man

Hey Schooppi; Sounds like you have a mixed up set of 10 inch bolt circle rims. probably the original rims at least 2 were put on a ford tractor, you probably should do some re-search on some Ford "N" tractors for years 39 to 1950. ford used the same wheel hub's on the tractors that he used on cars back then. The car years for those rims were 36 to 1939. What you could do if your not succesfull in locating Rims is to find a set of 5/1/2 inch bolt circle hubs and rims, but then your car won't be original. I do have a set of 10 inch bolt diameter rims but the cost of shipping wouldn't be worth it! Zman

Gee it's got a flat tire, other wise seems all there ha! Zman

Drove my Z to a show last weekend, engaged it on the way and it responded as it should, parked it inline with the rest of the older cars. It sat there for 6 hours, so after the show I cranked her up placed it in gear with no responce, after several tries to engage the rear axle, by engaging and disengaging the Columbia it finally egaged. I checked for vacum leaks and it was ok.I replaced the seal a few years ago It worked perfectly on the way home. Any comments please. Zman

Ralph Changing out that oil pump will correct your oil pressure, Your mechanic probably only changed the gaskets, and there is more to rebuilding an oil pump then that! Make sure you get a new pump not re built On the later pumps you may require removing a Baffle in the Pan, depending on the location of your oil pump pick up. Since your pulling the pan make sure you check the cover plate that houses the cam and pump running gear located in back of the block for oil leaks. I would take out the pump before ordering the new one, remove the bottom plate and check for wear and sloppy gear mesh.If the plate shows wear go back to your mechanic and get a refund. Z man

Funny thing about those oil sending unit's if you have one of the original oil senders there will be an arrow on side, which I understand should be facing down if I recall. Maybe some one lke Peecher would know. when I turned it facing up the pressure would take a little more time to show oil pressure on the gage. Still a mystery. Z man

Hey try some starting fluid, but my expience was with the advance, which was finally traced to the vacum advance not re-seating on the distibutor when that happens it changes the the start timing and point settings. Zman

Harell or Earl Brown, both in PA and listed in the on this web site,shouldn't cost much, Then put some "Lucas oil treatment to replace a quart of the oil you use. I put some in a Jubalee tractor that sat in a field for 30 years drained the oil and put 15 W 40 with the Lucas.After 100 hours of run time with an oil pressure of 40 psi at around 1200 RPM. and at idle 15 PSI. Zman

Hey try Bi-passing the filter, and check the in line restricter to the filter, other wise it maybe the oil pressure relief valve that maybe restricting oil flow to the lifters. zman

Graham Seems to me you got your wires mixed up being a 12 cylinder sometimes it's hard to notice try going thru your wiring to make sure your wires are on the right plug,One of my flat heads 7 and 8 were cross wired but seemed to run Ok and thought it was a vacum adjustment at first. It's those little things that gets ya! Z man

Hey Boz, my expierence is alway's use the "Long" pressure plate, it's semi centrifical and reduces the chance of grinding gears, Ford used them on all tractors and car's. Those have critical measurement from the face of fly wheel to the adjustable fingers on the pressure plate,So if you use any other you will have trouble and may need to double clutch like a truck. Zman

Hey I had a simular problem and found it to be the distributor advance vacum line pluged, in addition to the piston inside the vacum advance being stuck.Check it out. Zman