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zman

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Everything posted by zman

  1. I would say 2,000 would be a fair price, providing all the controls are incuded and it's acomplete rear axle assembly Z man
  2. Gary, I found that Lincoln used the "molded snd Woven Lining on their brake shoes, I've tried the both molded for the primary and secondary and they do not provide the feel of using the 'Woven"on the secondary and the molded om the "primary" these are rivited rather then glued on.I got a set from Rolf Luckly he had a set, and i WAS able the buy the woven and molded linnings to rivet on the shoes. Bill
  3. It wouldn't do us any good here in the USA we Only get the Left Side from the UK Zman
  4. Those roller bearing's do not see rear end lube, but you should re pack those bearings with the newer improved lubricant.I believe the 5-K interval is a bit over kill, but if you are a heavy on the gas pedal at least check those every 5-K miles Z man <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
  5. Send a JpG, Have you seen a 40 carb with a Vacum port above the trottle valves. Bill
  6. Hi where are you located, might be interested Zman
  7. I called just in the Nick of time to the motel Seems like it maybe a good one, just hope the weather is nice [And just hope No Globaloney from the weather man} Besides Demostrating my wheel guides I'll be looking for parts for the 40 engine overhaul Hoping to see you guy's there Zman
  8. I just read that ford will show it's new lincoln in chicago to resemble the 41 with the split grill.Just maybe Ford is wakeing up. Z man
  9. Not a repro, but a safety pin so to speak with a lot of Zephyr wheels to be installed Bill
  10. Thank's Larry I'll see you there, I;ve just taken the Block to the Machine shop, so the timing is just right.I'll be interested in other stuff too. Bill
  11. Ok Phil,I guess the same as 2006! Hey is your address correct in the LZOC directory, Since I have my Wheel guide's being produced in a local machine shop, I would like to send a pair to you for testing, I know they work like a charm but need some LZOC valadation.The local guy's like them. One is sufficient, but 2 work faster,On any car or pick up with lugs and nut's that have 1/2inch NF 20 Thread Bill
  12. Is the Lancaster LOZ meet on for Feb.2007 Like last year? Bill <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />
  13. Boy your in trouble, but take the battery out and you should be able to look down and see the starter, there are 2 7/16th's long bolts that secure it to the bell housing, in addition to a bracket secured to a pan bolt. zman
  14. Peecher I have a few and I'll check to see how it fits on the engine I'm working on Bill
  15. Peecher, except for the drain tube, being loose, I just put the pump back in its place to take the picture, otherwise, i didn't see any damage to either the tube or the pump pick-up They must have run this engine, but indicated there was a vibration. around 1500 RPM's., maybe it was the flywheel since its not the correct one weighing over 38 lb's and 110 teeth on the ring gear! I'll have to check the run out of the crank end. Bill
  16. Mike attached is what you will see when you take off the pan, but before you have your mechanic do that ,take a sounding bar and listen to the pan area and the right and left head. Just for Info I had a friend with a flat head V/8 with simular complaint, and found that a valve guide retainer was left out in one of the back cylinders, causing the valve to slap against the head. Z man
  17. Lets see!,My comments That pump if it's the high volume one, the baffles should have been removed, and being that it sits in hole so to speak it can't go far if the pump loosened up, it only has one bolt securing it to the block and should have been safety wired.Mike should check the oil pressure to see if if varies, The other point is the drain tube that's attached to the rear main bearing cap may have fell off,it's close to the 2 rear rods. I just took my pump off on the V12 i'm tearing down and did notice that drain tube came fairly close to those back 2 rods as I turned the crank and noticed it was loose. Bill
  18. yeah that's what I mean't .190 & .196, Guess I should review my posts before I send Ha! Bill <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />
  19. Peecher I did find where they do grind the cam for either hydraulic or solid lifters, so I got to make sure when I find a new cam it's ground properly.I also see that Lincoln had hydraulic lifters in a one piece design, with the valve assembly as part of the push rod body and the 2 piece consisting of a separate,hydraulic push in the push rod body, The only ones I have worked with is the later. It appears that I can go easily with the 15/16th's bore I made some measurements using clay, packed in various places and subtracted the differences, and came up with .0190 to .0196 for the remaining cylinder wall, plenty of room for boring to 15/16 I'll still do the UT though Bill
  20. Ok V/12 I'll be U-teeing the block anyway, so I can decide then,however the way it's checking out and with the taper in some of the bores 15/16 would take care of it. This V-12 block is a 40, since the bores were originally 2.875 and bored to .30 over, I believe it was run low on oil, other wise the bore measurements would not be so out of round. I'll check those cams out, including the 36 Z CAM which lincoln used solid lifters in. Thanks for the input. Zman
  21. Thanks Peecher,sounds like a winner,looks like I can go with the 2-15/16 bore, which will also take care of some of the taper I noticed. I'll see what I can do with the cam and about the crank, We have a Winter Swap Meet comiimg up in Feb, at Lancaster Pa.I'm sure I can pick up the later crank and possibly a better cam I agree on the valves,I see where the later Flat heads have the correct sizes of the rotatable valve assemblies, all the dimensions are the same as the Z mushroomed Valves,including the shoulder just below the valve head,which I assume is a stop for the valve guides. I also noticed on this engine the teeth on the fly wheel is not correct,' also the weight is 40.5 pounds and should be 34.5 Probably a truck Flat head fly wheel! One other question,I see where Earle Brown has adjustable lifters, and wondered if you have used those on any V12's and would the clearances be the same as a later flat head? I know the clerarances for the 36 Z's,but with the larger journals changing the stroke.I'm assuming they should be the same as the later flat heads" Bill
  22. Hey peecher, the valve seats look good and they do not appear to have been re-surfaced. I have attached a jpg on valve assemblies with the mushroom types I picked out of my parts bin.It seems that I can get the later ford rotating assemblies from job Lot. Made a few measurements on the bores and it was a 2.875 + .030, the readings are to high and may have to go to the 15/16th's bore size. The crank rod Journals are 2.125 and .020 undersize,but that may create a problem unless I change the crank with a 2.250 journal's. Possibly it would be best to sleeve it and stay with the 292 Cu.In. The cam shaft is scored badly on some lobes, so it has to be re placed
  23. I noticed on the tear down of a V-12 that the previous re builder had installed the none rotatable valve assemblies, Using the later F/H Ford assemblies These assemblies should not be used on the Lincoln with hydraulic valve lifters as they do not allow for requied clearances. The valve retainers at the bottom of the stem sit to close to the top of the push rod bore and creates interference for removale of the keepers, in adition to checks required for checking clearances of the stem and the colapsed push rod on assebmbly. Now I'm wondering if the Rotatables are still available, I noticed that the 49 to 51 F/H fords did have rotatables. Bill :shocked:
  24. zman

    37 zephyr

    Sound's like you have a fuel pump problem,either wih the pump push rod,or an obstruction in the tank, like the fuel line is sucking air going up hill. Possibly also if you have a fuel filter in line to the pump it could be in backwards. Z man
  25. Put it on your "Z" Then lets see it Can't tell how it fits on a late model car? Zman
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