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Does anyone know a source where I can obtain a NOS ignition lock cylinder?

Several years ago, I bought a reproduction bulls eye ignition switch lever from a vendor in the Green field at Hershey. Does anyone know who the gentleman is that is doing the reproductions? I need another lever. Dave

Looks like a 1914 model T Ford with a non-stock radiator.

I am looking for the brass horn connector that fits on the steering wheel end of the horn wire. I have been told that this is an "automotive specific" part that is not available. I would be happy just to find an original wire out of a junked Hudson. Dave

I would like to get an engine stand for my 35 engine. Is there anyone building them? Stumpys appears to be out of business. Dave

my 50 hudson commodore 8 has an electrical problem? The horns refuse to blow. We have traced current from voltage regulator, through horn relay to horn contact in steering wheel. All show 6 volts. The schematic in the 50 Hudson tech manual show that there are no parts missing in the horn button area. Grandson reports that when he was pushing on the horn ring the metal "horn ring contact cup" was getting hot. There is current there but why no horns? The horn relay is new, we ran a jumper wire from horns to battery and both blast just fine. Is it possible that the horn wire that runs up the steering is too small a gauge? It has been replaced at some point and it is a very thin wire. Is there something else that we have not considered? Dave

OK How do we report them, is there an icon or something that we click?

I am hoping this is the last report on the Stude. This morning went down to Battery Warehouse and had a new battery cable made in 00 gauge. Home, put it on, crossed my fingers and pushed the starter. EUREKA, it's alive! Starter spun over like mad and the Stude started. Had to adjust the idle mixture screw and took it for a drive. Came home, shut it off and tried restarting. No problem. Later in the day had to run up to the post office and used the Stude. You learn something new every day, I would never have thought that the battery cable was the culprit. Thanks to everyone who had input on this problem. Delighted Dave

Tried Tractor Supply here in Maryland and they do not have heavy duty diesel tractor battery cables. Went to Tractor Supply.com and didn't get anywhere with that either. I guess I'm going to have to get 000 welding cable and make my own. Dave

The saga of the sick Stude continues. First, a big thanks to everyone who has responded. To Cahartly, we disconnected the coil wire and tried cranking the engine, still too slow. To Dandy Dave, I think we have determined that the negative battery cable is a possible problem. We bypassed it with a jumper cable and noticed a small improvement. So a trip to Tractor Supply tomorrow. But I think there is more to the problem, than just the cable. I think it may be with the field coils and the armature in the starter itself. We had 3 mechanics working on it today. Two, young, talented 25 year olds and me, age and talent not determined. While we had the plugs out, young Dave brought his first rate compression tester by. The readings added to my woes, reading from cylinder 1 to 6, they were 75 PSI,60, 70 70 55 and 50. The Stude manual says they should be close to 105 PSI. A valve job possible or rings? I went to try the oil on the rings trick to see if that shows a difference. Old Dave

It's a new year and the 49 Studebaker Commander continues to befuddle us with the hard starting problem. Just a week ago, I decided to drive down to the local CITGO station and put in some petrol. The Stude started, slowly, and I motored down to the station. When I got ready to leave it was a different story. The starter gave a grunt and that was it. Fortunately, the station is on a slight slope, so I got the car moving and popped the clutch and came home. After that, I put the battery on a tender for 4 days. Today, checked voltage, specific gravity etc and everything seems fine. Tried starting the engine, grinds slowly, but finally starts. As I stated before the starter has been rebuilt twice, the timing of the engine has been checked, the new battery is rated at over 800 amps, the battery cables are proper 6 volt, all connections are clean. Tonight, in the garage, grandson and I took out all 6 spark plugs and tried cranking the engine, engine cranked over fine. We tried measuring the compression but my gauge is not good. We put the 6 spark plugs back in and the engine would not turn over. I cannot believe that the compression of a 6 cylinder Studebaker could be so great as to overcome the starter. I'm looking for another starter but that source seems to have dried up. Any new thoughts would really be appreciated. The Stude is the only car in the fleet with this problem, the Ford, Franklins and Hudson start right up every time. Frustrated Dave

I need the rear door bumper moldings for my 50 Commodore 8. They are part # 221846 .

I need the rear door bumper moldings for my 50 Commodore 8. They are part # 221846 .

I need the rear door bumper moldings for my 50 Commodore 8. They are part # 221846 .

My 50 Hudson Commodore 4 door needs the stainless steel rear door bumper moldings. These are the thin moldings that run horizontally about midway along the doors. Does any one out there have these?

Thanks for the info. I know on the 35 V8s it was the difference between Standard and Deluxe.

I see some model As with single tail light and some with two.. Was this a standard or Deluxe difference or just a popular add-on?

What I would do first, is to try and turn the engine over with the hand crank. Take the air dome off and the valve covers and watch the rockers. You want to make certain that none of the valves are stuck.

Replying to K8096, if the convertible you were referencing was a 28 it would be a 12A or 12B. An 18B would be a 33 Olympic. Also there are two series 11 convertible coupes shown in the large format Franklin book which has all original photos. One of them is pictured in Ralph Hamlin's show room in Los Angeles.

I'm guessing 31 or 32 Oldsmobile

Not an 11B Franklin because I have one and these handles and pulls are different.

That inside door handle looks like series 10 Franklin. Maybe?

I am looking for a mechanical (not electric) clock for a 47 to 49 Champion

Keep the Jeep! My 92 Cherokee has 128000 miles and is still going strong

How does one remove the stainless trim strips on the doors of my 50 Commodore 8? Do they use clips that snap in from the front (I hope) or do you have to remove the inside door panel?