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JWC
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Posts posted by JWC
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Ok I I'm going out of my mind
We own 4 Reatta's and my low mileage 90 has a hard brake pedal BUT only when it's cold, if I let the motor run and build heat under the hood the brakes return to normal, I tried this a couple of times now.
I have no brake lights on and took the test when the brakes were working (I don't remember the results now but nothing stood out as being wrong) I flushed the entire system and went thru about a gal. of brake fluid so I'm pretty sure all the old fluid is no longer, I took the accumulator off my 89 that has no brake problems and still get the hard pedal.
Has any one ever had problems with the valves sticking within the Teves system? if not any clues where to turn next?
I did buy a new accumulator from the dealer for one of my other Reatta's and may just give that a try again, BUT the dealer told me it's a good thing I'm getting it now because they are going to discontinue this part he just didn't say when.
I forgot to say when the pedal is hard only the front left brake grabs and I can feel the ABS trying to work.
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This was September 15 2006 the Reatta Home coming, we were kicked out of the parking lot.
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Phil remember it was 19-20 years since I worked in that plant, at that time it was probably the nicest paint jobs coming out of a GM plant, I doubt that the paint system would still be in there since they did produce other cars.
I was told that the inside of the plant was stripped for re-tooling so I don't think they would have any thing left from building the Reatta.
The picture shown here is where I spent most of my time with the Reatta, this was the body shop where we made the hood, doors, deck lids, qtr. panels and where the "Body In White" was put together, the lower building is where this took place, the taller building they were making parts for another car line.
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Barney I have tried this with a known good accumulator from one of my otrher Reatta's and the pedal still goes slowly to the floor.
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I need to change out the Teves unit on one of my Reatta's (pedal slowly goes to floor)I have a good used one from one of my parts car and when I removed it I just cut the lines that go to this unit.
What I would like to know is there an easy way to remove the brake lines that come off the bottom of this unit? There doesn't seem an easy access to them.
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Does any one have a drawing showing a section thru the windshield, body and molding? I would like to try and take out the windshield and rear glass and need to know what it looks like before trying to do this so I don't destroy the molding. I would like a drawing thru both the front and rear glass/molding/body.
I tried using the wire method on the rear glass and cut the molding in half.
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Phil when I was working at the Craft Center they would bring in tooling, weld guns etc. from other plants that had tool change over and try to use it, I have not been in the plant since 1989 but I was told it was gutted and re-tooled so any thing that is in there probably would not be from the Reatta era.
Boy I wish I never thru the pic's away of inside the plant when I worked there.
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Remember it's just one persons opinion, enjoy your Reatta now and don't worry about if it will bring top dollar, the pay off is enjoying it now. I own 4 Reatta's now and I am looking at 2 more.
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Does any one have any advise on removing the rear glass?
I'm just about finished tearing apart a wrecked 89 Reatta but I would like to get the rear glass out so if any one could use it I would have it. I would rather not take it to a glass replacement shop for 2 reasons I live in B.F.E. and the 2nd is the cost, if I pay for some one to remove it then I would have to pass that cost on.
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I am parting out a 89 Reatta and will have all the computers and boxes (not sure what they all do) except the brake and radio on eBay next week, unless someone wants to make me an offer. As far as I know every thing worked on the car.
The boxes were removed from the following locations, 1 from behind the glove box another from under the dash drivers side and one under the console.
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Send me your email address and I can send you the plans Send request to jwc@oystercreekdesign.com add note "regarding cup holder"
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I have design one to fit the 88,89 and the 90,91 Reatta that works great and does not cover the ash tray.
I have pdf files I can send or Auto Cad files In 3D
http://forums.aaca.org/misc/252834-MVC-440S.JPG
http://forums.aaca.org/misc/252877-MVC-445S.JPG
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Phil we just returned from Venice Fla. if you get a chance there is a 90 Reatta conv. @ Darby used cars on the east side of 41 south of Venice Ave about 2 miles.
The Gulf wasn't that warm yet but if you have a wet or dry suit you should have a good time, inland lakes watch out for the gators.
If you or your girl friend likes dogs there is a dog beach south of Sharky's thats always fun to go and watch BUT watch out for the gator that lives in that pond you walk by to get to the beach, this is all by the Venice airport. Enjoy and be safe.
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There is a 1990 Reatta conv. for sale in Venice Florida for $10,988 it has just under 58,000 miles and the left front fender has been replaced but the rest of the car is in good shape.
SEE POST
http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post448324
Vin #1G4EC33C6LB908400
Contact
Rick Koster
941-488-3667 or 1-800-332-9212
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There is a 1990 Reatta conv. for sale in Venice Florida for $10,988 it has just under 58,000 miles and the left front fender has been replaced but the rest of the car is in good shape.
SEE POST
http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post448324
Vin #1G4EC33C6LB908400
Contact
Rick Koster
941-488-3667 or 1-800-332-9212
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Did you buy this car from Darby? if so see post (1990 Reatta conv. Need info) http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post448324
We were told this was an out of state car, not a Florida car
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The pin stripe was the dead give away that the fender has been either repaired or replaced, as far as the int. and top goes it's in real good condition.
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There is a red with tan int. 1990 Reatta conv. in Venice Fla. for sale at a dealer for $10,988 it has 57,000 miles.
Is this a good price?
Every thing seems to be in good condition, the front left fender was either replaced or at least repainted, and there is no key lock for the rear trunk, other then that all looks good for a 17 year old car.
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Barney when I went out this morning to check my brakes I started the car and drove it down my drive and back about 1/4 mile. Then 2 hours later I went out and started the car to go to town and let both brakes light go out put my foot on the pedal and thats when I noticed the pedal being hard again.
I have listen for the pump to run while I have the hood up and I do hear it runnig to build pressure and when it stops I push the pedal again and I hear it run, I have never pressed the pedal and not heard it run.
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Flushed the brake system last night.
I went out this morning to see if the brakes would work and all seemed fine, then I went out about 2 hours later and had the hard brake pedal again.
It seems to be ok if it's in a heated garage over night, this just doesn't make any sense to me, I figured the valve body was just freezeing up, but now I'm not sure.
Will the brake test work with a hard brake pedal?
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Well I took my 90 to the dealer today to see if they could figure out my problem, they let the car sit in a heated garage over night and went to work on it this morning and the brakes worked fine.
I'm still wondering if moisture in the valve body could cause them to stick and not work until it's warmed up.
They seem to be at a loss, and even told me they don't work on old cars like this that often, so I took them the brake test (which they couldn't find any where for the Teves brakes) I don't think the test will do them much good if the brakes are working after being in a warm garage all night. I did tell them to leave it out side today and re-test them later.
I'm really starting to hate the Teves system.
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Barney the key was off, I will be doing the brake test today.
Last time I did the test on another parts car I have it pointed to the accumulator, I replaced it and that wasn't the problem.
Could it be the pressure switch?
Teves with a hard brake pedal
in Buick Reatta
Posted
Barney I will try to re-flush the system doing the boost side 1st using the instructions I found that you have posted in the past, Thanks for your help I will keep you posted