Jump to content

JWC

Members
  • Posts

    387
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by JWC

  1. It cranks a lot before it will start.

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Do you have any fuel in the vacuum line to the regulator? </div></div>

    After removing the pressure gauge I did notice it being wet from the fuel in the rail, also the car runs great once it's started.

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The only other place I could think of would be the connection between the pump and the steel line that exits the tank </div></div>

    I had this hard starting problem before replacing the pump.

  2. Ok I need help. I tested my fuel pressure today and here is what I found out.

    Hooked up pressure gauge turned key to on position the fuel pump ran and gauge read 43 psi, as soon as the pump shut off it went to 0, I then started the car the gauge read a steady 32 psi, the gave it some gas it shot up to 40 psi, when I turned the car off the gauge went to 0. I already replaced the fuel sending unit, pump, screen and the fuel pressure reg. I also checked the line back to the tank and it looked ok. Any clue what I should check next? can it be leaking from around the injectors? The gauge goes to 0 really quick.

  3. If budget allows do buy a higher quality tools. I do have a couple of air tools from Harbor Freight that serve me well, just remember before each use, add a few drops of oil used in the air tools, and this goes with out saying BUT I will say it any ways, you do get what you paid for, and you will be paying for the name also.

  4. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Is it possible to become addicted to Reattas?</div></div>

    Well we already have 3 and are always looking for more

  5. Barney, While working in the plant I always said they were way over priced and for about $17,000 they would have sold a lot better, thanks for the info and at todays $$$ I would still think they are over priced.

  6. Randy thanks for the info, but my plans have changed for the weekend, my inlaws are here thru Sunday and since they are going to Fla. for the winter in a couple of weeks we are doing the whole holiday thing this weekend. We wish we could make it but can't, so post lots of pic's for those of us who can't be there.

    As far as the colors we are long past that and the trees are almost bare now, we did wake up to snow on the ground 3 days in a row already, time to get the snowmobiles ready.

  7. My 89 gets any where from 28 to 32 and the 90 got 36 mpg on the way to and from the Reatta homecoming in Lansing, doing just over 70 mph I was really surprised.

    Why such a big spread in mpg in these cars? My 89 has 170,000 miles and the 90 only has 56,000 miles

  8. Barney here are the results

    Test 1 was 6

    Test 2 was 21

    Test 3 was 37 or the red light and 39 for the yellow light

    Test 4 was 48

    Test 5 was 1/2

    Test 6 was 1/2"

    Test 7 was ok with me feeling the kick back in the pedal.

    I'm with Phil on this one, it sounds like an accumulator going or gone bad but would also like your opinion.

    Also how hard are these to replace if it is an accumulator.

    Thanks for all the help

    John

  9. I bought a 90 Reatta and when I hold firm pressure on the brake pedal it will slowly go to the floor, I know on a reg. master cyl. this would be the seals, but on a Teeves could this be caused by any thing else?

    I have no leaks any where on the car.

    Is there a way for me to check with out taking it off the car?

    How hard is this system to replace/bleed?

    Can they be rebuilt or is it best to buy a new/used one?

    Also the only warning lights on the dash I get is the "Service Engine"

×
×
  • Create New...