hursst
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Posts posted by hursst
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Hello. Try SMS Fabrics. They are in California. https://www.smsautofabrics.com/
They should have it, but it could be quite expensive.
-Chris
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Another update. Worked like a dog over the last 2 days to get to a certain stopping point, as I won't have time to work on it for the next week. Finished up all the mounting hardware on the rear axle (photo 1). Was able to blast, prime, and paint one backing plate (photos 2 and 7). My sandblaster is still hopelessly worthless. I can only get about 15 minutes of work before it clogs with moisture, so didn't get to the other backing plate yet. No way to get it to work right unless I buy a fixed compressor and a better blaster. Good enough for now.
My main goal was to get the axle cleaned up and a layer of rust encapsulator on it. Here's most of the way thru (photo 3), then mostly cleaned up (photo 5), then ready for rust encapsulator (photo 8). While I waited in between jobs, I created a brass ferrule cut out of a wire crimp and made it as close to the original as possible for the cable that attaches the oil filler cap (Photo 4). I had to use a bike brake cable, as that's the closest attachment wire I could find to original style. With a little work, I was able to get it to fit through the hole in the back of the cap, which is slightly larger than the hole in the top of the cap, so this side is complete (Photo 6). Still need to make one for the other side of the cable and attach it to the refurbished valve cover.
Next weekend, should be able to prime and paint the rear axle assembly and get it installed, or at least that's the goal. I also got back the axle carrier from shop. I got a new seal installed and it turns out the ring and pinion are in spec with backlash, but not by much. I should be okay with the careful and occasional driving I'll be doing when it's finished. Cleaning and painting the exterior of that will be next, then I start with the axles, hubs, and brakes on the rear.
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Thank you Larry, this is more helpful to my specific questions. I think I have a little better understanding now. I think I will just buy some new desiccant bags and start fresh. I'll clean all the oil remnants out of the receiver/dryer, then I will then button it up and take it to my mechanic who has the proper equipment. I've taken it to him before for evacuating and charging, as this is about the 4th time I've been through this process, so I'm sure that will go well. One of the hoses had a plug that I put in fall out, so the system has been open, possibly for a while, but without the compressor on the car, so I'm in the crap shoot phase. I've plugged everything else up now that the receiver/dryer is out of the car. Poor due diligence on my part, but I guess that's how you learn.
Thanks again to everyone that posted, I do appreciate everyone's responses.
-Chris
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Thank you again for the replies, but don't have the tools, knowledge, or equipment to pull a vacuum on the system, and that is not something I'm concerned with yet.
I really appreciate the responses, but none of the responses actually address the specific questions I have, which are:
1) Does the receptacle where the desiccant bags are located hold enough oil/liquid refrigerant to cover the desiccant bags when in normal use, or is it just a small amount at the bottom? I understand oil is in there, but I don't understand how much. My desiccant bags are soaked in oil and are green in color, not blue, from dye, so I can't use color as a determinant of dryness. I don't care if they are dyed green or not.
2) It appears that replacing the desiccant bags (or heating them up) is a viable option, but how are the desiccant bags protected from moisture to begin with? Let's say I order new desiccant bags, or, dry out the old bags. When I take them out of the bag (if new) or out of the microwave, is the amount of time it takes to put them in the canister, and hook the receiver/dryer back up a small enough time that I don't have to worry about it absorbing much moisture? What about when the system is all sealed up again, there was outside air in the system, so is this just a tolerable amount? How long can I wait before I get the system charged? Like you mention, I need to draw a vacuum, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do that, I'd take it to a shop to pull vacuum and have the system re-charged. Vacuum is not an issue at the moment.
3) Do I need to put oil in the receiver/dryer canister with the desiccant bags? One youtube video mentions that, but I don't know what the truth is, or how much, if any, to put in. How much oil is put into desiccant bag receptacle? What type of oil?
Can anyone address these specific questions?
Thanks again.
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Thanks for the tips, but I guess I don't really understand how the system works to being with, plus my desiccant bags are an oily mess, so I'm not sure if re-heating them would even work. I wouldn't be able to tell if they are fully dry or not, either. The things I don't understand, and can't find a good explanation of how they actually work, are:
1) Does the receptacle where the desiccant bags are located hold enough oil/liquid refrigerant to cover the desiccant bags when in normal use, or is it just a small amount at the bottom? My desiccant bags are soaked in oil and are green in color, not blue, from dye, so I can't use color as a determinant of dryness.
2) It appears that replacing the desiccant bags (or heating them up) is a viable option, but how are the desiccant bags protected from moisture to begin with? Let's say I order new desiccant bags. I assume they would come in a vacuum-sealed bag. When I take them out of the bag, is the amount of time it takes to put them in the canister, and hook the receiver/dryer back up a small enough time that I don't have to worry about it absorbing much moisture? What about when the system is all sealed up again, there was outside air in the system, so is this just a tolerable amount? How long can I wait before I get the system charged? Like you mention, I need to draw a vacuum, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do that, I'd take it to a shop to pull vacuum and have the system re-charged.
3) Do I need to put oil in the receiver/dryer canister with the desiccant bags? One youtube video mentions that, but I don't know what the truth is, or how much, if any, to put in.
As you can tell, I'm learning about A/C, but overall very clueless and I don't really understand it. Thanks again.
-Chris
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Jeff, it looks like "Auburn" may have this for you, but if that doesn't work out, keep us posted. I don't have one, but I know a junkyard that may have one, which I'll be visiting within the next 2 weeks.
-Chris
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Hello,
I have a 1974 Camaro with the original-style A/C system. It was trashed when I bought the car years ago and I had it converted to R134A when I did the restoration about 7 years ago. As many of the original components were used as possible. Since then, the A/C system worked great, but always had oil leaking from the front of the compressor and spraying all over the engine bay. I just replaced the front seal on the compressor myself with a modern double-lipped seal, so I'm hoping for the best with no more leaks.
During this seal replacement, the system was exposed to outside air for while, so I need to do something about the receiver/dryer. I'm no A/C guy by any stretch, so I'm not sure what to do to either put new desiccant in it or just replace the whole thing. Photo 1 is the whole VIR / Receiver/Dryer System that I took off the car. The green mess is dye put in to track the original leaks. I want to keep the original components intact, so I wanted to ask the following questions to the group:
1) Can I just replace the desiccant bags (photo 2)? I had Classic Auto Air restore this system originally, so at one point, they replaced the desiccant bags, so I know it can be done. If so, does anyone know where I can get them and how I install them without ruining them by exposing them to the air? If I can do this, is there anything else that should be fixed/replaced, other than maybe the O-rings?
2) I've had a few friends and forums I've read on other sites tell me to just replace the receiver/dryer, but all the ones I see are modern replacements and do not look anything close to mine, so that doesn't seem like a good solution, but maybe I'm missing something? I haven't been able to find this component online anywhere (Part #1131047).
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated, as this has been a very frustrating and expensive experience of just trying to get my A/C to work properly. Thanks!!!
-Chris
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Hello, I need to find the driver's side rear corner trim piece for a 1969 Pontiac Executive wagon with a vinyl top. This piece only came with the vinyl top. Any leads are appreciated.
-Chris
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Please see my PM.
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Thanks, gentlemen.
Marty, like you, I think attention to detail is the most important part of a restoration. Your car, for example, appears to have every detail correct and I think that makes a huge difference in appearance and keeping the historical aspect of the car and era in focus. The extra time spent in doing it right is well worth it.
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Sounds like a great car. Hope you post some photos. As far as your original question, you should ask again in the REO-specific forum.
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This week, I was able to clean up the shocks I exchanged and make them look pretty good and original (photo 1). I stripped the incorrect black paint off the body, then clear coated the aluminum. Turned out quite well. I was able to refinish and reuse most of the original hardware (photo 2). I was also able to install the repro shock rods on that go to the rear axle. Here's everything installed (Photos 3, 5). Here's the whole completed car so far (photo 4). Still not much to look at, but I hope to get the rear axle back on next. No word back from the guys where I dropped off the axle carrier for thrust adjustment, but not in a hurry, so I'll check in in a couple weeks.
Taking a only a 1/2 day at work tomorrow to try to get the rest of the rear axle hardware stripped and metal prepped, then maybe strip the axle housing and start getting it ready for paint. Getting the rear axle housing back on there will be a big step.
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Do you have a photo of them available? If so, please post.
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Do you still need this piece?
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Fantastic find. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
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Quick update this time. Very little progress made. Got some rebuilt/exchange rear shocks from Moss, as my old ones would need rebuilding and I don't have the facilities to do them myself. My only gripe is that the Moss rebuilders paint the whole thing black, which is incorrect. They should be natural aluminum which black painted arms. I don't understand why a company with so many years of experience not only does the wrong finish, but it's an added cost and step to prime and paint them. Very frustrating, so now I'm going through a very long, messy process to remove the paint from my shocks. Much unnecessary wasted time I also picked up new connector shafts (the old ones had the studs spinning in place, so the nuts could not come off. Also, the rubber bushings inside the socket where shot, so they had to be replaced).
I dropped off the rear axle ring and pinion carrier to have the backlash set and new seals/bearings, since I didn't have the correct tools, gauge, and experience to do it. Cheaper to farm it out. I've also been slammed with work, travel, and trying to replace a GM A/C compressor seal, which might be the most frustrating task I've done yet. Progress will be very slow for the next 3-4 months, I'm afraid, but I try to make some progress every day, no matter how small.
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Hello, I wanted to provide an update and ask more questions, if anyone can help further. I'm about half way through this task and it is the most difficult, time-consuming, frustrating task I've done in a long time. First, some words of advice: With the A6 compressor, there are 2 different shaft widths, as I found out. Guess which double lipped replacement seal I bought. Right, the small one. Guess which shaft I have. Correct, the larger one. 99% of snap ring pliers will not reach the snap ring holding in the ceramic seal. I bought a pair from China that just barely worked. KD makes specialty ones for this task, but I could not find a pair anywhere.
Today, after 4 weeks of buying tools online and trying to get this seal out, I finally succeeded. I cannot continue, as I have the wrong double-lipped seal. I also don't know where the O-ring is located (appears to be behind the ceramic seal, but before the cage seal).
1) Does anyone know where the O-ring goes on the original cage/ceramic style seals? Mine didn't have one when I took the seals out. Maybe this is why it leaked so badly.
2) Upon installation of the new-style double-lipped seal, how/where does the O-ring go? The one supplied with my incorrect seal kit is too large, although the overall width of the seal (just not the inside diameter) is correct.
3) Can anyone refer me to the correct double-lipped seal kit, GM or aftermarket?
Now that I'm 1/2 way through and spent $$$$$$ on tools, I can't give up now. I should be an expert on this when/if I ever get through this and have a compressor that doesn't leak. Thanks for any help!
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More small progress on the MGA. Got both lower control arms on (Photo 1), and the other leaf spring on the back (Photo 2). Almost starting to look like it may end up being a car in the future. Still working on a few brackets for the rear axle, then I'll complete the refinishing of the axle housing and get all that back on the car. From there, the focus will be on the rear axle assembly, with a few engine parts going on the side.
Also found some great parts at Hershey including an exhaust manifold, fuel tank, NOS door, and radiator (Photos 3-4). My exhaust manifold was broken in 3 places at the bottom, my fuel tank was full of 45 year old gasoline and rusty, my passenger door was wrong for the car, and my radiator was missing.
I also took the starter and generator out to a shop for restoration and they did a beautiful job. Not sure if the starter is supposed to be painted at the back, but will research and figure it out soon (Photo 5).
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Kirk, in what general area are you located? Someone could probably loan you one if they know generally where you are.
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Nice work, Martin. Maybe time for a video next time you take the car up the street.
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Jeff,
That sounds like a great system, but I have a deep 2-car garage with living space above (dry wall on ceilings) and I have a mobile Craftsman compressor that I wheel out into the driveway to do my blasting, so I won't be able to configure that setup, but I appreciate the advice either way. I think I'll try the ice bucket method addressed above, then mess around with some other techniques.
-Chris
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Work and social activities have cut into my MG time recently, but still trying to get out there and do something each day, so some progress to report. Had a great time at Hershey and met some more great AACA folks in judging school and throughout the field. Bought an NOS door, used radiator, restored exhaust manifold, and gas tank. My pass side door is incorrect and from an earlier model, so had to get a correct door. The radiator was missing when I bought the car, the original exhaust manifold was in 3 pieces at the bottom, and the gas tank has fuel so old that it has turned to something that looks like horse manure, not to mention rust. I may try to save it in the future, but for now, another gas tank is the better choice. I also got my starter and generator out for rebuild and restoration on the side. I should have most of the engine components ready to go by the time I tackle the engine internals themselves.
My sandblaster still only works for about 20 minutes before it gets hopelessly clogged, so I bought a third water trap, which I will install soon. Hoping it solves my problem. So, blasting of parts is much slower than expected. That being said, was able to blast both lower control arm assemblies (photo 1), 1 coil spring, and some unrelated parts for the engine. Was also able to install one of the leaf springs (photo 2). Tough doing the leaf springs, as I need time to strip all the rust off, put the whole works together, re-seal the 4 attachment brackets, and get a coat on rust inhibitor on it before any flash rust has time to occur. Tough to do in the limited time I have after work, or in the rain, so have to wait until a clear weekend where I am at home (hard to find the time!).
Unfortunately, I discovered that one of the control arm link hole pairs had ovaled out (Photo 3), but the other side was okay. Didn't notice until after I had finished them the first time, until I read about this issue in a Moss catalog. Got out the welder and welded up the area that was ovaled and got it back into round (photo 4). Still have some minor finishing to do, but bolts now fit properly with no movement. Will now get these semi-repainted, finish the other coil spring, then finish the other leaf springs. Then I'll get the rear axle squared away and installed before I move on to the shock absorbers.
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Looks like I can buy a kit on ebay that should have everything but the shaft protector tool, which is also on ebay. I think I'll try it myself. What do I have to lose at this point?
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Thanks Joe, this looks like the best solution. Now a matter of who can do the repair. Those tools look either expensive or hard to find or both. Thanks, this will get me further down the road towards solving the problem.
-Chris
1958 Buick 2 door Roadmaster or Limited parts
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Hello,
I'm headed to a junkyard tomorrow and may find some of these pieces, so I'll keep you posted if I find anything. Your photo did not get attached...