Packard8

The vendor's website recommends thinning with lacquer thinner. I also had good results with the same product in the past. I thinned it a bit more and gave another coat using a heavier mix on the gun and it came out better.

You are getting closer Pete. Higher c/r's will improve combustion efficiency thereby raising BOTH HP and TQ but the mechanical leverage at the crank is still the more significant factor. Comparing diesel to gas engines is somewhat “apples to oranges” in that a diesel needs at least ~ 15:1 to ignite the fuel while gasoline engines are limited to around 13:1 max due to detonation issues. <o></o> In an idealized model of an Otto cycle internal combustion engine, the efficiency of the engine is described by: e = 1 - 1/r^(k-1) where e = efficiency, r = compression ratio, and k = ratio of specific heats for the gas mixture (typically around 1.3). Now we can use some scaling laws to find how torque varies with compression ratio: Torque is proportional to power (at a given RPM), so T ~ P Power is proportional to efficiency P ~ e Therefore, torque is proportional to efficiency: T ~ e T ~ 1 - 1/r^(k-1) Keep in mind this is only an approximation. If we trust the model, we can predict that going from a compression ratio of 9:1 to a ratio of 11:1, the torque should go up by about 6%, not an earth shaking amount. <o></o> Here is some good reading that might explain it better for you: <o></o> Outdoor Power Equipment - Google Books <o> </o>

It is my understanding that torque is more a function of mechanical leverage than compression. Long stroke engines have a greater mechanical advantage if you consider the crankshaft is the fulcrum and the "reach" of the stroke is the lever. Some of the highest torque engines are the slow turning natural gas industrial engines that have a very low compression ratios, and also steam engines although they are external combustion. Diesels must have a high C/R to produce enough heat on the compression stroke to ignite the fuel. High torque in diesels is more of matter of long stroke than high compression

Hi folks, Any sources for the bronze hi-temp engine enamel used in 1954 & 1956 Seniors? The last quart I bought from "Vendor H" (for $50.00 plus shipping) did not gloss well and curdled when thinned with fresh, name brand lacquer thinner. I have two engines to paint and am looking for an alternative source. TIA John

"I have a 1972 Chevrolet pick-up with a 350 engine and transmission. When I start out from a dead stop I hear this clink noise , does anyone know what may be causing this clink?. regards buckwheat" First guess would be U-joints, then loose rear spring shackles, excessive play between ring and pinion gear or perhaps loose or worn center driveshaft carrier (if so equipped). You might get a better response on the Chevy Forum here or on other truck forums on the 'net. Good luck

You might try Mike Dulinski. I don't have his email (somebody here likely does). I believe he is in MI and has dozens of V8 cars he is parting out.

Hi fatman, If it is indeed a Custom, it originally had the big, long stroke 356 engine. What makes you think it is a 288?...is that what is on the cyl head? could be that the head got swapped over the years, or perhaps the whole engine... they are all (engines & heads) pretty much "swappable" from 1948 thru 1954. See if you can find the engine serial #... it should be on the driver's side, mid block just below the head (if it is a 356 Custom) or further back near the rear if it is a later 288. Either way, a 288, 327 or 356 will cruise nicely at interstate speeds. One big advantage of the Ultramatic over contemporary automatics is that above 25-30 MPH the converter locks up and you have direct drive like a standard shift..... no slippage. The down side is that they are pretty much a slug off the line, but you are used to that with your Chrysler Fluid Drive (don't challenge mopeds to a drag race).

Very interesting...I'd love to see a photo of the hand throttle when you get it posted. I've seen a ton of post war Packards over the years and none have had a hand throttle, nor is one listed in the 55-56 parts or service manual. Just speculating, but perhaps the PO used an existing mounting point (overdrive or heater control etc) to install the hand throttle. That, or perhaps a high quality aftermarket kit that was contemporary to the car back then... a mechanical J C Whitney "cruise control" if you will.

Of course not! They make money on every listing...bogus or not.

My late grandfather bought the Hupp in the '20's from an old hermit in Western Kansas named "Uncle Jake". Uncle Jake was a rather frugal old chap and didn't opt for the factory installed CD/MP3/GPS option that Hupp offered that year...just the AM radio.

I was pleased to learn that they also stock an OEM replacement radio antenna for our 1909 Hupmobile. I was worried that I would have a hard time replacing the original one when it wears out from receiving too many radio waves. Seriously, this "carpart" outfit must be a 'Bot that latches on to a search for any part for any car of any year. I'm sure eBait loves it and gets a listing fee for each fraudulent listing. Money talks and BS walks as they say.

Sounds like a Plain Jane "stripper" model, and I doubt that the hand throttle is original. You hit the nail on the head.... a "poor man's Packard'. Due to the uniqueness, I would say it is worth more today than its higher optioned Clipper siblings.

A very succinct post. And all accomplished without copious "BOLD FACE ITALIC QUOTATION MARKS" !!

I'm sure the SWF (Screaming Wife Factor) adds another 1500 RPM and 20 MPH to the equation! Good point about modern babbitt being much the same whether poured on the rods or brg shells. As far as piston and brg wear on long stroke engines, the 6 Cyl. Cummins ISB (bore 4.02, stroke 4.72) 5.9L in marine trim will run continuously @ 3000+ RPM for the equivalent of 250,000 miles between overhauls. I don't advocate pushing 70+ year old engines too hard, but if properly rebuilt to OEM tolerances and well balanced and filled with modern oil I think they are capable 55-60 cruising as long as the tires, chassis, brakes etc are up to snuff.

thanks, will do

Neat project, keep us posted! If I recall, the AMC/Hash version of the Packard V8 had a forged crankshaft? I would start looking there and I'm sure that Ross, Venolia etc would be glad to make up a set of pistons. I believe Mopar 383 HiPo valve train (lifters, springs, keepers, retainers) will fit without modification.

Looks like a nice car for the price. I'd be interested if it were not so far away. My daily driver is a 96 Impala SS.... same LT1 drive train.

Up thru late 1954, the Ultramatics did not "shift gears". Much like the Buick Dynaflow, they used the torque converter only. However, Packard added a direct drive lock-up feature to the torque converter which prevented any slippage over around 25 MPH. This design is somewhat inefficient for around town driving resulting in below average acceleration and fuel mileage. However, it has a distinct advantage over any other auto trans of the era in that there is no slippage or overheating at highway speeds. From late 1954 thru 1956 the Gear-Start and later Twin Ultramatics started in low range, shifted to "Hi" and then on to converter lockup..... essentially a three speed.

Hi gang, rebuilding a 359 engine and looking for a good usable 359 aluminum head. These were used only on the 1954 Seniors and are marked "359" (no quotes) next to the letters PACKARD on the top front of the head. Thanks in advance

Try Egge Machine: EGGE Machine Company - Parts and Services for Nostalgic Motors Also try posting on the Buick forum here. Good luck, nice looking car!

One big obstacle to future restoration of modern (mid 70's and up) cars is the extensive use of plastics. Compare a 1995 Buick (or whatever) with a 1955 or 1965.....most of the interior parts on older cars are metal or fabric. I doubt that in the future you will be able to purchase let's say, a plastic door handle or armrest for a 1990's car, whereas the metal handle on a '55 Roadmaster should last until the next ice age. Another big hurdle is the computerized engine management. Most of us can probably fiddle with a Carter, Rochester or Holley carb and get the car to run, but I'd be hard pressed to repair an ECM printed circut board 20 years from now. There are a lot of neat cars at bargain prices...my daily driver is a 1996 Impala SS...last of the GM full size, full frame, V8 RWD cruisers. With the factory Corvette LT1 engine and auto OD tranny it recently got 26 MPG on a 4000 mile trip (in air conditioned, 21 position adjustable seat comfort )

Hi, I would be glad to send photos, but both my '56's are pushbutton shift. If no one here has photos, try the packardinfo.com V8 forums. There are many 55 owners there and they are a helpful bunch. Keep us posted!

Seen the new Nissan Ultramatic? Nissan's next generation CVT claims world's highest transmission ratio

@d2_willys: Good point...the 1950 Utramatic was about 40 years ahead of the industry in that respect. @Ozark Bill: Without engaging in another windbag lecture, I think you are on the right track to keep the car original.You might contact this person: Ultramatic Dynamics For more info on your questions.

I think the insert/shell vs babbitt bearing debate has been overblown. No doubt in my mind that replaceable shell bearings are better from an engineering viewpoint. That being said, my first car was a $75 1949 Chevy 2 door fastback (babbitt brgs) upon which I promptly in stalled two one barrel carbs and lost the muffler. Like most teenage boys I flogged that poor car way beyond what it was designed for and it never let me down. My parents had a new 1951 Stude Land Cruiser with the 232 V8 (full pressure, insert brgs) and OD trans. About once a month we would drive from Tulsa to Wichita (+/- 200 miles) to see my grandparents and when road conditions allowed, 65-70 MPH sustained was not uncommon. The Stude lasted many trouble free years. Also keep in mind that today's oils are vastly superior in preventing wear and failure than what was available when many of our old cars were new. I remember when 50-60K miles was the average span before a "ring & valve job" might be needed. Today's cars go 100K+before you need to change plugs, much less need to replace rings, bearings or a valve grind.