Thriller

Cool. Love the colour too.

To get back on topic, the suggestions for the buy and sell forum here do suggest including items like an asking price, location, contact information, and other relevant information. We also do love to see photos here. I would love this car, and would certainly appreciate its rarity. Unfortunately, with what I expect the price would be, this would be beyond my means at the moment.

Doug Seybold in Ohio may be the best guy to check with. If he doesn't have one available, he may have a line on one. 440-835-1193 is his number if I have it right. Others here should be able to confirm, or check the roster.

Welcome Dale, First of all, do a search on "Compact Buick Club". Bruce Andren is the man behind it and is also the BCA Technical Adviser for the '61-63 Special / Skylark. John - I believe the engine is the 2-speed Dual Path transmission rather than a Dynaflow. At least that is what is on the '62s. Another difference between '61 and '62 is the shape of the Ventiports on the front fenders, at least on the Specials - '61 was sort of oval, while '62 is kind of a rounded rectangle with vertical ribs. From your photos, I believe the car has the '62 Ventiports. Did the Skylarks only get the 4-bbl version of the 215? Another thing to confirm would be to look at / photograph the body data plate on the cowl on the passenger side of the car near the hood hinge. It will confirm the year and also some additional information about the car. That's about all I can think of at the moment. These are nice cars, and will get about 20 mpg on the highway. Good luck with it.

This car serves as a good reminder on the number of Ventiports in the '50s. In 1954, the Roadmaster was the only model with 4 - all others had 3. In 1955, the Special was the only one with 3, and all others had 4. The Roadmaster and Special are consistent, but the models in between change.

I don't know about 1917, but earlier (around 1911, 1912), each model had a specific colour scheme as standard. Even by 1929, each model had only about 3 standard colour schemes. If the ones you've found photos of are the same models, it is safe to suggest that most, if not all, are painted differently than original. If you haven't already, I would contact Dean Tryon as noted previously and ask him if he has paint scheme information. Good luck.

Congrats on the acquisition. The car looks great.

Tall order...doubt it. What about the Nailhead green and judging anyway? Must go to bed...I'm apparently too tired to rant. Hmmm...I forgot about the Wildcat Nationals being moved...I doubt that Ellie can make it, but it may be worth looking at again.

Indeed!

Heck, I'm having trouble waiting for the September issue...should be here any day now...since I've jinxed it, I definitely won't get it this week.

Sorry to hear of your loss. One of the issues with price guides is that they are guides, not a definitive answer. Different methods, condition ratings, and sources result in the guides being different. There is a magazine type published called Old Car Reports Price Guide. I have the August issue. #1 - $26000 - this is basically a perfect show car that rides in enclosed trailers #2 - 18200 - among the nicest cars you would generally see #3 - 11700 - good condition, everything works, but not perfect #4 - 5200 - generally functional, but clearly needs work - proverbial 20 footer #5 - 3120 - restorable car, definitely not just a parts car Again, this is another guideline to use. If you pick up a copy (generally major book stores), there is a more detailed version of the condition guide. There are also local and regional issues that come into play. For instance, the same car may command more money in a large city where there are potentially more buyers than compared to an isolated rural environment, depending in part on how it is advertised. The best way, particularly if there are other family members involved, would be to spend a bit of money (probably under $200) to have the car appraised. If you go this route, ensure that the appraiser knows you are looking for fair market value, not an inflated price for insurance purposes. Good luck.

Welcome. I have the same model (4667) patiently awaiting restoration. Feel free to tell us about your car and maybe share some photos in the Me and My Buick forum. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure if there are any reproduction gauges available. You may want to check Buick Farm, NOS Buick Parts & Original Literature, 1935 to 1976 for NOS parts. They may come up on eBay. Good luck.

Whimper. To think, this could have been the turbo car and car representing the '80s in my collection. Sigh.

Wow. Way cool. I want it.

Amen brother Willis! To take this point further, I'm going to reiterate an opinion that may get me crucified. I would suggest that we need to have all judges attend the entire judges training session. Many points are made in the training for the more junior judges that may not be reiterated after the senior judges join in. Then, down the road when one sees their judging sheet, there are items deducted exactly how it was specified not to during the training. To take one of Pete's examples - a battery is worth 3 points. If the car has a battery, you can't deduct 3 points. If it is corroded and dirty, you can deduct for condition. If it isn't a Delco or is the wrong size, there can be an authenticity deduction, but you can't deduct all three points. Similarly with paint and body, which is where many restorations strive toward reflection. I am told that going back to the 60s and earlier, the cars didn't have perfect paint, and there were frequently runs. I presume there would have been some quality control that would have required it not be out of hand, but the paint (and gaps) weren't perfect (at least by today's systems with downdraft paint booths and whatnot). So, there should probably be an allowance - a couple of runs perhaps shouldn't get any deductions. I think not doing so shows the risk. Because over-restoration has come into play, two cars may look quite different, but could get the same point level, which could PO the owner of the over-restored car. In Seattle, my '41 surprised me with a bronze award - it has a lot of flaws in condition, but overall the car is quite good from an authenticity perspective. Some people could walk around the car and, from a purely aesthetic perspective, wonder how on earth it could win any kind of award. I really like the mentor idea. It would allow folks new to the National (or Regional) meet to be guaranteed a friendly face that would spend some time with them and help orient them to the event. I know I could have used someone like that in 2003 at our first National.

I'd have trouble at an auction like that...between wanting to save them, or part them, it would likely be too much temptation.

I think the 37 inches is in the ball park. It seems to me I had measured the replacement I have for my '52 at just over forty. I forget the mileage on the car, but if it is low enough, I wouldn't see why it wouldn't be original - it is what I believe would be the correct style - long and cylindrical. There were some NOS or NORS ones for sale here a while back.

How'd I know you'd jump on that? Wasn't the most recent some gals in Ames on '54 Buicks? :cool:

I'm pretty sure I've seen photos of these cars towing small campers, so I'd suggest there is no real issue with it. Doing so would simply prove you are braver than many of us with our old Buicks. ;):eek:

A 1940 Special has a 121" wheelbase. The easiest thing to do (if you can call it easy) is to use a frame with the same wheelbase as that will not require any length modifications. If you are looking to rod the car, then there are probably other locations that may have more knowledge about making the sort of swap you are contemplating than the group here, which tends toward original. Otherwise, I agree with Michael - if it is just a matter of the engine being bad, it would be much less project to find a replacement (up to 1947 258 ci straight 8 is a direct replacement) than to put the body on another frame. Good luck.

So the big question is whether you will find another trunk lid for under $175....

Well, MrEarl's wallet is going to get lighter methinks. Actually, if they make a Century wagon, my wallet will be forced to get lighter as well.

Welcome aboard. There are a lot of things you could try. I wouldn't hold out hope, but try rockauto.com. Bob's Automobilia may have something. Classic Buicks (dot com) would be another place I'd check. There's also the Buick Farm online with NOS parts. Hardtop or sedan? I have a Canadian Model 41 that is restorable, but it likely going to wind up as parts.

Cloth? Year? Foam under or the older material? There are many products...it will only be original once, so you may want to be careful. If it were me, I'd likely talk to an upholsterer about cleaning and care, just to be on the safe side...or someone else who may know material care. Good luck.

If I understand correctly, you are after the chromed window frame. Is that right? I have the same car, but I don't have any spares.