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edinmass

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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. It's hard to believe I've been a member on this site for 10 years as of today. Time has sure gone by fast. I have met and made a bunch of good car friends here on this site, all at no cost or obligation. Just a short THANK YOU to all who run the AACA, The Web site moderators, and all the volunteers at the Hershey Fall Meet. My first fall meet was 1971 when I was only 5 years old, with my grandfather and father, I have only missed a few years since then. The hobby has been a GREAT family adventure. Grandpa and dad are gone now....... but the new generations of the family are also coming on board. My best wishes to all...... and in my fathers words now long gone and missed ......... HAPPY MOTERING. Ed

  2. Sorry, EDL stands for Enclosed Drive Limo, as for how many were built, 25 club sedans, and 10 EDL's. The photo above has me sitting on the right, and the gentelmen on the left is a well known Pierce collector with three Brunn Town Cars! I stopped by his house on the way home with my new prize to get some feedback, and see the look on his face when I backed it out of my trailer. After 4 tires, oil change and a new battery I drove the car about 5 thousand miles in the 65 year old plugs, condensors, wires,ect. It's still running strong. Every light and even the wipers worked fine. Only the gas guage was not working. Ed

  3. Well.......there are none. Almost none. There are a hand full of club sedans, and one EDL, photo enclosed. There are from memory, 5 31 Club Sedan eights, one 33 Club Sedan twelve & one EDL twelve, and one 34 Club Sedan twelve. THAT IS ALL. The EDL in the photo was mine, photo taken the same day I pulled it out of a barn where it had been sitting for almost 40 years. It had 29 thousand miles on it and a 1940 repaint otherwise factory. I kept it 10 years and sold it to the gentelman who also ownes the 34 twelve Club Sedan. They don't change hands very often. The split windshield LeBaron Pierce was my dream car since I was in high school. I couldn't believe I found an unknown car in the year 2000. I have quite a bit of info on LeBaron PA's as they have always been my favorite. A driver will run 150K or better. Only problem is most have been restored to 100 points and will run you 450k if you can find one. I know all the owners of all the cars, and currently only one may be available, maybe. Ed

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  4. Having seen his shops and restorations firsthand on many occassions I highly doubt your examples were given full restorations in Bill's shop or they were done after he was gone.

    Howard Dennis

    Well, I bet you haven't worked on one of their cars. Poor babbit, tapered cylinders, factory pistons, replacing only one gear in an entire transmission when they all are bad(shafts too)...... I'll stand by my comments. Also the several PM's from members who agree with me but didn't want to post in public is a sure sign that they took lots of shortcuts. I knew Bill, and he was a guest at our home several times in the 1970's trying to buy a car I still have. He saved hundreds of cars that would have went to the scrapper, but standards of restoration and return on the dollar prevented many of the cars from having a correct total restoration. Most of his cars were museum restorations. There is nothing wrong with a museum restoration, unless the next owner wants to drive them. Ed

  5. I have been involved with two of Harrah's cars that were restored in their shop. I was NOT impressed. Both were major league BIG BRASS cars, they had very nice paint, the motor work and machine work was poor at best. One of the cars we had in the shop was from his ranch and we were told it was one of his favorite cars, they only replaced one gear in the trans when all were junk, and they used old pistons as they didn't want to make new ones. The babbit work was terrible.(This was a 1910 50 hp car.) The other car was "100 points" (1912 60 hp car.) and it only took about 250 hours to fix all the things that were wrong and make it run and drive right. I would not buy any of their restorations without spending some time going over the car and driving it. Just my two cents. Ed

  6. 1926 TO 1942 brought a re-emergence of three-ply cloth top materials. In addition to these rubber-combined varieties, uncoated Burbank canvas from England was used for top material on many higher priced, open and convertible cars until the mid 1930s. Advances in textile dyes enabled the use of more varied colors. Yarn-dyed cloth was popular through the mid-thirties, then giving way to solid colors. Car body styling governed the kinds of top material used. Surface-coated fabrics were used for lower priced soft tops and for covering the center deck of closed body tops. The latter application vanished with the advent of all-steel tops in the mid-1930s. For traditional black top-decking, a rubber-faced 4 ply fabric was specified by many car makers. If the top deck was to be painted (matching the car body), pyroxylin was used. Ford, and perhaps a few other makers, offered deck material featuring a print pattern on pyroxylin.

    Go to Haartz.com I have owned quite a few 31 V-8 Caddys if you need any other help. Ed

  7. Ross is a better box than the Gemmer. Both had many different series boxes, made according to customer cost demand. The largest series Gemmer is a 215, used on Pierce, Stutz, L 29 Cord, and a few other cars. The top of the line Gemmer had a lot of problems. Pot metal used in bearing races, bushings on the sector shaft that were under too much load, and worm races that were part of the worm and nor replaceable due to wear or damage. The smaller Gemmer's also suffered from these issues. (1928 to 1931) Later Gemmer's seemed to be better than the earlier ones. Ross on the other hand used no bushings, and a much better over all general design. Truth be told, the Gemmer would probably been ok with correct service and adjustment, but lots of the were run dry, out of adjustment, and suffered from too much road shock due to other worn front end parts. Currently, there is a upgrade to Gemmer 215 boxes available, just use the search engine on this site and you will see detailed photos of a Gemmer with new improvements currently being offered. In general terms, if I were building a early 30's speedster using assorted vintage parts, I would use Ross hands down. Many of the shops building 1930's specials in south America and Europe buy only Ross boxes for their cars. Ed

  8. This car has been for sale for several years. Last time it was advertized it was listed in South America, with a delivery to Hershey. It's missing quite a bit of mechanicial parts and trim. I had a request from someone in South America asking for parts on this car recently, so I would be sure to confirm it's in Hershey before driving out to see it. I probably have most of the parts required to finish this car if someone makes a purchase. Ed

  9. Hi Dave, I was given a heads up on the car. Some of the guys with the super brass seemed upset by the price swing. It's a very early car for it to bring 600k, but thhis weeks price seems very low also. Just goes to prove your car is only worth what a buyer with cash in hand is offering. Past sales in this day and age don't mean too much. Like what you drive, it's the best protection in a buyers market. Ed

  10. If your carb were in perfect factory condition, it still would run lean with today's modern fuels. You need to be sure it is calibrated correctly for your application. Unless you have the Stromberg factory special tools it is almost impossible to rebuild the carb correctly. EVERY plug, screw, and part must be removed to get the car running correctly. I often see "rebuilt" carbs that have not been taken all the way apart. The idle channel circuit is most certainly plugged, and its possible the carb has been modified incorrectly to try and adjust for plugged passage ways. If you don't have the correct tools you can damage the carb and make it impossible to repair. Be careful. If you need parts, new or used you can contact John at 413-543-9017 as he makes more than 100 parts for the Stromberg UU-2, UUR-2, and Ex as well as EE series carbs. He is a Stude club member. I work with him and run his Hershey spots, we sold lots of Stromberg parts to members of the Stude, Nash, Hupp, Pierce, Packard, and Auburn clubs this week. If you damage your carb it will be very difficult to replace, you can easily spend four figures for a good rebuildable core. See photo. Good luck, Ed

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